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Hey guys......which one of madbeans pcbs is based on the xotic bb preamp?

Thanks Jacob.  One question.  Could a person be ablessed to add the testing rig probe to this?

Hi. Good luck if you decide to build the abdx.....I've been building for 3 years and I couldn't get it going. But to each ones own. Even though the fellas are telling you its not a goodles starting circuit I'm sure they won't back down in helping you troubleshoot it.

The code is Tayda?

Doing initial testing of the amp I just built.  No b+ voltage or very little like .18volts.....light was on. So I scratched my head a little couldn't figure out for the life of me what was wrong....so I emailed a tech guy and he replies with "Dan, put your black probe to ground, red probe on the b+ fuse, then flip your standby switch on and off".......it was at that moment I was like. ......no way. I didn't......but yup I did switch upside down lol.

If I use a 100w stereo lpad and wire the 2 lpads in series will that give me 200w?

Not sure if an L pad would work on a 50w or not. I'm betting that resistor is going to get hot though!

I was gonna wire up 2 fans inside to keep the heat down......one sucking across and the other blowing the same way to dissipate the heat

Hi fellas. As most of you are aware I built a jtm45 amp. It's insanely loud and I was thinking on building an attenuator with a 100 watt 8 ohm lpad. Anyone use a diy attenuator for a 50 watt amp? And what's your opinions on them.

How much exactly is relatively cheap lol.

I guess I am glad that everyone ignored my question...I was in bed last night and started thinking about it and see what I was missing...it kind of works exactly as patching, but with one exception right? When you patch you are coming from either the bright or normal input on one channel into either the bright or normal inputs on the other channel. Would that make the tone different than using a Y to plug straight into an single input on both channels?

Yeah. ....but I don't want to have to unplug/plug to switch

Well it works.....not as expected though....there is no hum which is good but when switching channels and I don't have the both engaged only input two works but when I engage the right footswitch I get switching from both...I'm confused now.

Hi

Depends how much is "slightly", and if it's a push on or a set screw type knob.

If the difference in diameters is small (i.e. you could measure it with calipers but it's not visually apparent) and it's a set screw type knob, you could build up the shaft with heat shrink tubing  fairly easily. 

Otherwise, go with Dave's suggestion.

EDIT - if it's just the diameter of the hole in the pickguard/control plate you're worried about, a second larger flat washer will do the trick.

That's a wicked awesome idea for the heat shrink tubing......I bet I'll use that someday. Thanks.

I'm pretty confident it will work.....the leds light as they should when the footswitches are pressed.  I'll be sure to post soon as I try it.

I built a footswitch for my Hughes and vettner head a while back......I had to use a stereo jack. Not sure if your amp would be the same but it may. Trs footswitch is what it's referred to as.....hope this helps you