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Yep, into a clean Marshall JCM800 combo.

Where would you say unity is on yours?

Any ideas what would lower the output? - everything else seems to work ok....

Thanks,

Ian

Cool, thanks!

Hi,

I've built up a Serendipity on an etched board.

Finished building the board and connected it up to my test rig to test it.

I'm getting sound - and in fact at low levels, it seems to work ok and all of the knobs seem to do as they should.

However, as soon as there is any level, from playing hard or a boost before it, I get a horrible crackle/clipping sound on top of the real sound, if that makes sense.

I've had a quick look around for shorts and I can't see anything, and it does seem to be working, so i'm wondering if it's a faulty component (capacitor??).

Anyone seen this before or have any ideas to narrow down where the problem might be?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I built up a Tubescreamer on a custom PCB based on the open source / Green Bean schematic.

It has a TS-808 / TS-9 switch but none of the other mods - I just soldered links on the board as required.

It seems to work and sound fine, however unity volume with the Gain & Tone at noon is between 2 and 3 o'clock.

I seem to get plenty of boost between there and fully turned, but I just wondered if that was normal? - it seems very high. I'm used to unity being more around 11-12 o'clock on other pedals.

Thanks,

Ian

That's what I was thinking - an on/off/on with 2 clipping options and a lift in the middle.

It's the other switch I am having trouble with, to switch between standard (ala vintage on the DeadRinger) and a Fat Mids mode - I can't work out how to do Flat Mids...

Thanks,

Ian

That's cool with me, but full disclosure too - I don't have a working build yet.

I've ordered some MN3005's to test if they are genuine and 4x MN3008's plus the other IC's needed to build the Aquaboy, so i'm going to aim to build it up before they arrive as they take weeks to come across the world and hope that at least some of the 6x BBD's i've ordered actually work, at which point I should be able to tell if the 3005's have more delay time and if the doubler board works with the 3008.

Thanks,

Ian

Thanks for taking the time to reply - sorry it took so long for me to get round to replying back!

You can use that switch in either on-on to have two choices, or as in the Deadringer as an on/off/on switch with the middle position being a diode lift option.

3. Yes, Comp cut is the off position.

The DeadRinger actually uses an on/on/on switch - the top position is actually diode lift / comp cut.

(the middle is FM and the bottom is Vintage).


The flat mids should be easy to work into the green bean I think, I just can't quite see what to add to where as it's complicated by the boost part in the DeadRinger. I think it's just something to do with  R13 and C9 though.

Thanks,

Ian

interested in a few of these - and interested how it works out, as someone else told me that adding a 2nd 3008 caused noise so they ended up removing it whenever they tried it.

Anyone who can understand the DeadRinger schematic able to help?

I might be a little crazy, but i'm on a bit of a crazy idea.

I'm thinking of taking a Green Bean (TS808) circuit/board and adding some things from the DeadRinger (Fulldrive 2).

This is what i'm thinking.

- Remove/ignore the FAT/COMP/BRIGHT mods on the Green Bean and build it as a stock TS808.

- Take the clipping setup from the DeadRinger, with a switch to go between diodes and Mosfet

- For the above switch, use an on/off/on, which I believe will give Comp Cut mode in the middle position as it will remove the clipping (right?)

- Have another switch to switch between standard and flat mids (FM) mode.

It's that latter point I can't quite work out how to do. It obviously connects the between somewhere around the drive/clipping stuff across to the output of the 2nd op-amp and probably involves R13 and C9, but I can't work out how that would fit to the Tubescreamer circuit as the Fulldrive one has the boost stuff mixed in at that point.

Anyone able to help?

Thanks,

Ian

Thanks guys!

Cool, thank you!

Is the 0.2 and 0.4mV is ok instead of 0v then? - that doesn't indicate a short?

Is the variance between mine and yours just due to the supply and component tolerances then?

Will I hear a difference in sound because of the different voltages?

Thanks!

Ian

This stuff seems to look ok! - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330743588965

cool - i'll check them out - thanks!

Yeah, but on the UK it shows US stock with a one off delivery charge.