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2) CLR from LED negative lead (not shown hooked up in the photo though, but it is now)

To Verify, you have the CLR (current limiting resistor of say 4.7K) connecting the positive (long) lead of the LED to 9V (your purple wire)  and have the negative lead (short) connected directly to pin 2.
Right?

Also You have the RED wire going to 9v on the board right? I can't tell by the picture but it needs to be connected to the same place as the purple wire. If not, then you are dis-engaging it when you plug in the 9v adapter.

Ben

In particular I dont see the grounding wire that connects the 3 pads on the switch...are you sure you are getting continuity to ground when the effect is engaged?

Ben

You sure you got that standard wiring diagram right? It doesnt look right from the picture to me.

Ben

So my Honeydripper has a background noise the depending on the 4 way switch sounds like either
EEEEEE
AAAAHHHH
MMMMMMM
or
AAAAAAAAhh

The noise seems to be coming from the effect itself and is not changed by putting a compressor either before or after.  Other than that the box works great.

Is this normal?

Ben

Just finished the Karate shop and am wondering if I am getting the proper sound out. Can anyone point me to sound samples on the net. The only stuff I have seen is the Triskelion, which is really different than what I am seeing.

I had to make some subs. A bf245a for2n5457 which seems the same with pinout reversed, and an LF347N instead of the tl074.
In using it, I am not hearing very much from the BDW until the last 10% of the range. The Freq and Gain do work but the gain isnt that big....

But sound samples would help me determine if it's just me ;-)

Ben

(SOLVED: swapped out a different lf347 and now it is big!)

This is from the notes on the boneyard:

LED clipping - The stock version uses red, water-clear 5mm LEDS. 3mm diffused red will also work
well here. You can build the Boneyard with either symmetrical or asymmetrical clipping. For
symmetrical clipping, populate D1-D4. For asymmetrical clipping, populate D1-D3 and jumper the two
pads for D4.

I just socketed d4 and can swap out for 3 or 4....If you wanted to be fancy you could hook up a switch to go from asym to sym....

Ben

So I am wanting just a tad faster tremolo from my double flush...Could I just increase r17 a bit?

Thanks,
Ben

Problem solved.... socketed  both and put a new (shielded type) ldr that ranges from near 0 to 2M and a superbright green led and WOW....toooo much of a good thing...so now I just need to fine tune.

Thanks for the help
Ben

Ok, I verified that r10 and r12 are 470 ohms, I also checked my ldr and get a resistance of 180K in complete darkness and in very bright light about 0.2K.....does this seem a good range?

Thanks,
Ben

I've been seeing some other information on peoples success using non-red leds. I have green and red diffused 3mm and also superbright clear, in white ,green and blue . Seems like with the int adjustment the superbrights might work if I sand off the top....has anyone tried this?

Maybe I should socket it and try it all

Ben

So I now have my double flush working but was wondering what kind of resistance range I should be seeing in the ldr.

Currently the sound is good if I put the balance all the way to one side and the volume all the way up. At that point I get about equal to bypass. The range goes from fairly slow to nice and fast. But the actual "wetness" does not seem nearly as high as the youtube examples out there. I am thinking my ldr might not be giving the resistance range I need. What should I be looking for?

Thanks,
Ben

I am builting a double flush and don't have an 18k resistor for r14. Can I sub a 15k or 22k and if so what would this change? I could also put a 10k and 8.2k in series I suppose...ugly though.

thanks,
Ben

Wow, thanks for the replies. I tried out various configurations of the 2n3904 and bc550 using my 9 yr old daughter as a judge, and we both liked the 2 bc550s. Sounds punchier to me. Ended up with the 100n even though still have a little weirdness there...but am trying to embrace it as BrainDead said (Right Said Fred?)

I did manage to kill the oscillation with 220N but it did deaden the sound for me. Putting a switch for the different values would be cool, but I cant fit it in the tiny box.

Bringing the voltage up did also solve the oscillation but made the sound too ummm...big I guess.

Didnt try out the resistor in the gain pot...that will be next.

Thanks again for the help.
Ben

Just built the hipster with BC550 trannys and have a few questions.

These three items are from the build docs:

1)R1 is optional, and may not be needed.
    Ok, so what is the downside of putting this in, does it change the tone at all? I can't tell the difference.


2)C2 can be increased if oscillation occurs at maximum fuzz. Incremental increases in value will result
in incremental decreases in treble. Suggested alternate values are 22pF, 47pF and 100pF.
   So, when I turn past about 95% I start getting oscillation. I started with 10pf and still have the same oscillation with 100pf.....I haven't really noticed a change in treble except at the low fuzz side of the pot. Should I just keep increasing up to 1n?


3) Adjust the BIAS trimpot until you read approximately 4.5v on the collector of Q2. Note that 3.5v – 5.5v
is the nominal range so feel free to experiment with your bias setting. 
     This is very sensitive to adjust, I finally managed to get it to 4.6....What would changes in this typically do? Could I solve my oscillation problem by playing with this?



I am also going to try some 2n3xxx and see how they sound.

Thanks,
Ben

Note when making the Red Llama, you need to the left and middle boost pads or it will not work.
(Brian said it first, but it's kinda hidden in the forums)

Thanks,
Ben