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Slight necro-bump to close the loop on this. Turns out I had a cold solder joint on the middle leg of the switch. (Which I could swear I checked, but oh well.) Repaired that, and it screams now. Awesome pedal!

Dave, you're the best as far as I'm concerned. Nice work!

(What would you have done if you had to use a yellow or gray film cap?  )

How cool is this?! Geez.

I would guess input jack to lug 1 if lug 3 is Gnd. Lug2 to buffer Input, buffer output to output jacks.

This worked perfectly. Fixed the problems. Thanks!

I pulled the whole PCB out of the Ernie Ball VP I did this to. I put the buffer in front of the volume pot. I used the Aziltz/Coldcraft dual buffer board.

The volume swell worked perfectly on that pedal (until the string broke. I'ts still broken. I won't ever try to fix it again)

Let me know if you'd like to unload it! This job was for a friend, and I kinda want one for myself. I wouldn't mind trying the string replacement job.

I think, that if you got the 250 k version, the pot should be in front of the buffer input (right behind the guitar).

Ah, so then I'd need to connect the input to lug 2 of the pot and the outputs to the tips of the output jacks?

Hey all, I'm trying to get this fairly simple thing to work, and I can't figure out what's going wrong. Thanks in advance for your advice!

What I want to do is add a dual output buffer to an Ernie Ball VP Jr. Here's what I did:

• I populated a PCB, tested that both outputs worked, and set to installing it.
• I installed a DC jack into the VP and connected PCB power and ground to it. (Also connected an LED/CLR.)
• I cut traces on the board that connect the IN jack to the tuner OUT jack and the volume pot.
• I connected the PCB input to the tip of the IN jack.
• I connected one output to the tip of the tuner OUT jack.
• I connected the other output to the PCB pad that is connected to the middle lug of the volume pot.
• I connected the DC jack sleeve to one of the I/O jack sleeves.

Now the pedal functions basically like an on/off switch. Heel down, it's off. As soon as I push the treadle forward at all, it comes in at full volume and stays there for the whole sweep. Any ideas or suggestions?

My laptop is all USB-C. I use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 with a standard USB cable and an adapter. Works great.

Weird, I thought everybody bent the leads and then flipped it over. The only time I use poster tack on the topside is on IC sockets and similar, stuff that you can't bend leads on to keep them in place when you flip the board.

Fun to see how many different ways there are of doing this.

Aven 17010 Adjustable Circuit Board Holder: best $12 my sister ever spent on me.

They are really killing it lately!

That is a very nice board! Well done.

We did a series of group buys for some wire from a forum member (T-Diddy) at BYOC. It's the best wire I've ever used, bar none. As good as Barry's, but a gauge or two thicker. (No offense to Barry, of course; I just prefer larger wire and larger eyelets for that matter.) I'm almost out of one of my colors and have been thinking about contacting him. I haven't seen him post in quite some time though.

Edit: I emailed him to inquire.

This is the best wire evar! It does feel more solid and breaks less.

Good to know! Would be interested if he does another group buy.

I got a quote from Trevor for his wire, because I am almost out of green and yellow, two of the four colors I regularly use. Unfortunately you have to buy 500 feet of the stuff to make it affordable.

His price is $120 per 500 foot roll, plus shipping to me or whomever would run the buy. They have green, yellow, red, and black in stock. That works out to $24 plus shipping for 100 feet, $12 for 50. If I decided to do this, I wouldn't go any less than 50 foot lengths, just too much measuring and cutting and packaging.

I'm not sure I have it in me to run a group buy right now, but... maybe.

What mods have you done to your FM4/DL4?    I took my MM4 apart and re-painted the enclosure.  I didn't do a very good job,
so I'll probably re-re-paint it when I'm in the mood.

Not the OP there, but I just did a switch replacement and external tap tempo jack job on a DL4 for an acquaintance. Switch job is really easy and pretty cheap, and it's a huge upgrade. External tap isn't too tough either, though it does eliminate the fourth preset as an option.

I just found a workaround on a mac, but you have to choose the photos, export the photos, pick a file type, pick an extension, specify a size. Its just a hassle.

I have an Automator* workflow that I use to resize bunches of photos at once. Basically, you drag them out of the Photos app into a folder on your desktop, then run the workflow and point to those images, and it resizes the whole batch in less than a second. Happy to email you the workflow if you want to try it out. Just hit me up at my username at Gmail.

* Automator comes installed on your Mac, if you didn't know. It's hugely powerful but they don't talk about it much.

Incredible work as usual. What do you even do with all these?!