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[Lovely builds as ever Chris.]

I can't tell who can't tell who's joking?
Lovely builds as ever Chris. Not quite Aunt Marissa Tomei May level though.  jk
See, this was humor involving MILF(langer)s and it's cannon!
I'm here all week.

I saw the PPCB forum post title, then the pedal featured characters and thought, "huh, today I learned Jake Gyllenhaal is a milf."

Only through 7 degrees of Marisa Tomei

That's awesome. Lotta love for the brass master here as well. The whole circuit is unique with the rectifier/carrier freq thing.
I gave my last build away for a base buddy. I think I have 1 PCB left.
Experiment with an EQ in front. Pushing a little more low end at the input can help get more beef in the output. I've wondered if beefing up some of the decoupling caps would aid in getting more clean bass through.
Anyway, great looking build. Be careful loaning it out.

Welcome to the board and the hobby!
Where to post a question kinda depends on the nature of the question.
Tech help is more reserved for madbean projects specifically.
How do I? Subforum is more for process specific questions.
General Questions is kinda everything else. But there's no hard rules or anything. I would suggest keeping madbean project questions in the tech help area as Brian(bean) may be more likely to see them and see sooner.
Here, diystompboxes and the pedalpcb forum are all great resources both to ask questions and search for information. It's always a good idea to search for a given project before building as you may find mods, substitutions or other ideas from previous builds that will be useful.
I would recommend reading through resources, regardless. Also, build an audio probe, see The tutorials section:
https://madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/index.html
Instructions in the prototyping rig doc, but all are good reads.
Good info in the PPCB wiki as well
https://wiki.pedalpcb.com/wiki/Main_Page
Also read over Brian's build docs. He writes some of the best and there's always good info there to learn from. Even just reading some of the older ones in the archives can be beneficial.
See amzfx as well
https://www.muzique.com/
Welcome. And remember, a hot iron for short bursts and don't melt your 3pdt.

Your bunching of control will be at minimum feedback setting with the C taper. That will allow finer control I. The medium to maximum feedback range.
With an A taper, the opposite would be true.

Had a aoyue 936(the older, bigger one) for 15ish years. It has no bells and whistles but works fine. Takes 90-120 seconds to get to full heat but maintains really well.
Auto off is a good function to have though and would recommend it in any new purchase scenario. I like the S7 tip. Only use genuine Hakko tips. Never had a knockoff T18 that was half the weight of a Hakko.

I love big knobs.
I love unruly fuzz.
I love this.
Great job and congrats on the first layout working out.
Should've dimed it in the demo though
I've been meaning to build one of these up. Breadboard one a few years back and loved it. This circuit has a bit more going on than the parasit layout. Was that you or inspiration from elsewhere?
Great job!

Laser cut acrylic may be the way to go.
Acrylic washers fo exist

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtnuoyi

Woohoo!

It's a metal zone with a fixed mid frequency and without the boss buffer.
It doesn't sound exactly the same, transistors are different and such.
There's absolutely nothing muff about it so no modifying a muff circuit to be done.

Sorry if I'm derailing the topic more, but any chance that the BoomBoom comes back in stock?

@madbean I second this question. Both my boomboom builds flesh to new homes. They're happy there. But my @ss needs some brass.

Oh yes it will soon. The only things for sure not being restocked are some of the 1590A projects, and that's just because they are moving into the 1590B Standard Series for now. I'm going to get on the ball with restocking. Some projects need to be brought up to date but I also don't want to try and redo every project b/c that would take forever. If it has a semi-circular top on the PCB, it's getting an update.

Awesome! I know you've put a ton of energy into the standard series. I think everyone is excited to see the new digs.

Sorry if I'm derailing the topic more, but any chance that the BoomBoom comes back in stock?

@madbean I second this question. Both my boomboom builds flesh to new homes. They're happy there. But my @ss needs some brass.

Fader lube is good stuff just be mindful of where it's being used.
If it's an area where dust can buildup, that dust can get in the pot and stick.  Think amps with fans, club mixing desks, etc. I wouldn't add it proactively in these situations. And it's not a bad idea tonuse deposit or crc first to clean a pot, then just a lil puff of fader lube. That way you don't get lube all over the place (insert joke about working the pot shaft back and forth).

Awesome!
I has kind of going through my troubleshooting concepts, but putting them into exhaustive words isn't always easy
By headless, I meant no screen. Just Incase there was some super noisey rectification stage on it's pcb. Due to the nature of the world's economics, very few things are built to the best of their ability anymore and instead to the cheapest of their ability. That can result in noisy single stage rectifiers where proper octavirus could be implemented for just a few cents more. This is extremely common in LED lighting.
Cheap LED bulbs scream interference like banshees at times.
It appears that you have the room, so I would consider, if I were you, placing both a mains filter on an IEC cable connect coming into the unit as well as a dedicated power supply. Control what you can control and in terms of powerline noise, that gives you a lot of control for very minimal financial investment.
Emi and RFI are weird but those two things will give you some safeguards moving forward for various environments.
Congrats on getting working and quiet and rocking.
You could absolutely use the other pole of those relays for led indicators by the way.
Great work!

They only pinch so much.
Better to physically adhere them. And since you already have the iron in your hand... Why not use that?
Say you are floating a control board with 5 9mm pots in a straight line. GBMTO or OTBMBG...
And below it, you have a multifx dsp.
Everything on the lower pcb needs the higher pcb to not ---- up and touch it.
I say this not in theory as this was basically every Peavey digital pedal I've ever seen, not that there were many.
Obviously the pots were not designed for pedals, but the PCBs were.
Anytime you design, what's the worst case.scenerio?
In pedalsz it's "overly excited 300+ pound bass player"
So, what's the best part selection for that, short of those whacky tone-lok gizmos Ibanez used for 6 weeks? A pot with 5 solid points of contact.
Also. I may know the troubleshooting post your referring to, and I highly suspect any porition of the issue was lack of solder on the mounting tabs.  Reflowing the other connections likely solved that one.
I'm exhausted. Hope the above is legible. G'ni...