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There's schematics of some base modules on the mts forum. You can use those as starting point

Lovely as always!

Don't you need a matched PNP NPN pair for(optimal) push pull? May look at transistor arrays if that's the case.
I assumed this was for a pedal so didn't take voltage into account...

I'll add, check out the Alfa offerings

Triple check for solder bridges around Q1. A lot of your disc caps look like the insulation is going through the pad and a lot of joints didn't flow through the via. May be worth reflowing that first gain stage area if you haven't. The 0v reading could be due to your meter. Assuming it's capable of reading ~40mV, make sure it is ranged for mV.

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/1590A/pdf/RabbitHole2020.pdf

Voltages in there

Make sure you didn't mix up 100k and 100R resistors in the first stage?
I'm assuming you have an audio probe setup. Are you sure you're losing signal before Q1? I like the break up circuits for initial probing. So, I would probe the collector of each transistor.

Do your transistor voltages look similar to those in the build doc?

Could use mmbt22222

Passive guitar outputs vary but typically quote din the 100-140mVrms range. Actives can get even further up there. Of course, you have to take the next devices input z into account...
There's no standard like consumer and balanced line levels. Instrument level is generally considered 0.1-1.7V
Around 0dBu is probably a good middle ground.

1)don't know what amp you are using
A tube amp *can* respond well to boosted signals. A SS amp will at best, saturate the input stage and sound like trash.
2)
A)you're not going to get a good sounding signal at 8v p-p out of an opamp operating at 9v if a boost is what you are after.
B) if you like the sound of a opamp shitting itself, use a voltage divider after.
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I have one pedal I built that outputs 2.2v p-p at full tilt. Sounds great on a tube amp.
I would consider that a Very hot pedal and it really pushes the preamp stage.
8v p-p output won't really be usable because, if the amp even handles it, your volume will increase a lot! Good way to get kicked out of a band if you keep trying that. It also won't play well with any other pedal after it.

250mV to 1V p-p is a good range, depending on the pedal. I don't measure a lot of outputs, maybe Brian can chime in and give you a more refined range but I can say, 8v isn't in that range.

I don't think it's an issue with your opamps, at least in terms of your power issue. Though, when it comes to LFOs, not all opamps are equal. I forget exactly what/why but I think it's relative to input and output stages of the opamps.
If your voltages are off, it's likely a short or an incorrect value.
Check your power at your DC input. Your PSU could even be going into shutdown/protect.
Did you etch it out use stripboard? Definitely wouldn't use stripboard for any circuit with bbds or a lfo, personally.

Might want to ask over at diysb and post some photos. This sub is for assistance with store purchased PCBs btw.

There's an ecad model of the adafuit SP8T from the mouser library loader which is the same form factor as the tayda. I know PPCB used to resale the adafuit switches. Not sure if they changed to tayda. But they're the same.

Mouser pn 485-2925
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Adafruit/2925?

Necro bumping again,

Happy to this this come to life!
Have you stacked it with other drive with any success or is it already way to much with the 2 gain stages?

15-30 days usually to the states.
Sometimes a bit longer if he's on "holiday"
I'm pretty sure European economy international still travels by barge.

Bahaha
Got me