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Does anyone here have experience with Molex? My pedal designs consist of a main board, and a 3PDT daughter board. I often find that to troubleshoot I need to remove one board from another. I thought Molex would be a solution to avoid de-soldering wires. I want to make my own custom lengths. I've been researching, and the problem I keep running into is how do I know for sure that the end I crimp on my wires will mate with the socket I solder to my boards.
I need 4 connectors, and the socket that gets soldered on the the boards has to be at 90*, for height.
TIA

Ladies and Gentlemen, The latest from Nelson Audio, The Blue Bull'z:





This is my third pedal.  In an effort to make this process "Skyp Proof", I changed the way I make PCB's, and tried a different top coat/ sealant ( thx to jimilee).
At least it sounds better than it looks
I am very confidant that with a little practice, they will look better.
Thanks to all who have helped me along the way.

BricksnBeatles said

Your JI and In as well as your JO and Out pins are probably connected to the same nets in the schematic, similar to how all the ground symbols you add to a schematic will alway default to the same net.

Traveling down the path you've lead me, I was able to determine that yes, they are on the same net, but why, I ask. Unlike the ground pads, which "I" connected in the schematic, and acts like any net with more than one pad (or node), the switch is acting differently. It doesn't NOT act like a set of 6 disconnected nodes, which is the only way I can wrap my head around it for now. It acts like it has an internal connection between 1 and 3, as I highlighted.
At one point the schematic showed them as two different nets, but the board still connected them.
Connect one at a time, two different nets.
My next try is maybe creating a foot print that is just that, an array of pads, like input pads, if possible. Or use three separate 1PDT switches.

Thank You for your help, I did learn a couple things looking into it.

I didn't know where to start to find my answer, so I started here. TIA.
Consider these pics:
3PDT schemeatic


The board in Eagle. Note the highlighted nets.



I don't understand why A1/A2 and C1/C2 are connected.
I strongly suspect its something I did, as B1/B2 aren't connected.

I welcome any help.

First and foremost, thank you for your reply. Of course I have many questions, but am only asking one.

2. Test completed builds for frequency response, levels, waveforms, and noise.  I usually keep a spreadsheet on each pedal's profile so I can compare it to expectations, and to similar builds.

There I'm lost. I assume levels means , like after a trans, when the signal should be louder, see that it is, what shape the waveform is (ie. sine tri or sq) any noise will look like ugly wave forms. As far as Freq response, I wouldn't have a clue . Are we looking for build mistakes here, or maybe differences from one component and another of the same marked value that was in my parts drawer?

There's lots more that I'm not smart enough to figure out! You can Google "oscilloscope basics" and get a ton of YouTube videos and PDF guides, including a Tek 453 manual.   

I have a manual, and some basic guides.

Figured I would start here. I was recently given an old Tektronix 453 scope. I know very little about scopes. I have found some basic info on how to use them in general. Where can I find info on how to use them in pedal building specificity?
Side bar: the first thing I am going to try and do is to id an unknown inductor using an LC circuit and function generator.
TIA

Do they help. Should I try and incorporate them in my designs, and are they ever harmful? I make my boards by isolation routing on an CNC mill, so there is a whole LOT of copper left sitting there .

Kinda thought that *might* be it. Thank you

I'm looking over the schematic and I just can't figure out what the symbols "pin" and "LC" mean as far as connections. I understand VB, VC, IN, OUT. Are all the "pin"s connected? Then I'm lost seeing one of the "pin"s is connected directly to ground, making no sense (to me) for R1.
TIA

The box I'm putting it in will also house the speaker, so plenty of real estate . Its not a pedal, just a test speaker.
Thank you for your input, I'll mill the board on my CNC this afternoon.

The application is just a little amp with a recycled tv speaker to test circuits without having to whip out my amp at first. The large cap is because that is what the schematic called for, and it works nice on the bread board. Do you have a different value to suggest? 

As per my previous post, are there any issues with the component placement for this simple LM 386 amp?





Or that matter, any issues at all?
TIA

For those who take schematics and design their own PCB's. What concerns should I have when placing the components. I believe that I should try to keep power away from signal, and to always pay attention to polarity. Beyond that, does placement impact the sound? Should certain parts be placed closer or farther from each other. Maybe I'm over thinking this.

Would there be a problem using an MP3 player plugged into the input of a pedal I'm trouble shooting, as to not have keep plucking a string? Impedance mis-match or something that damage the pedal circuit further?
TIA

I'm only putting my two cents in because I don't know your experience level. Take it from me, the two tools I own now that makes ALL this easier is at least a middle of the road adjustable soldering iron, and a panvise to hold the boards. You will swear a lot less when building . Painter taping the board over a 2 gang electric box is better than nothing.
IMHO