Messages

At the risk of getting philosophical, what's the matter with them being fake if they sound right, other than maybe having paid too much for them?

Also a fine choice!

Looks good! Gotta get some brass trim and some cornflower blue velcro to complete that late 80's / early 90's look!

If you want to buffer the returns, you could use a BJT buffer. This would also allow you to switch the phase (which you'd really only need to do on one return). It's probably pretty cheap insurance to make sure effects play nice with each other in parallel

Not so subtle reminder that I need to get my head back in this.  Vero is drilled and jumpered.

Yeah! I want to see that build report! 

I have a baritone telecaster with active electronics. It's not a dark guitar, but the lower range does mean I have to manage low frequencies carefully. The solution for me was installing an active two-band eq, specifically EMG's BTC for bass. I can boost or cut lows at the source before I hit any pedals. Taking this approach, I haven't felt the need to modify any pedals or make a baritone specific rig.

If you don't want to go the active route, you could try something like an RC boost or Madbeans FireAxe at the front of your chain. You'd probably had to experiment with capacitor values in the EQ section to get the cutoff frequencies you need.

The finish looks really good. The knobs almost look like they're glowing from the light of  the UFO.

This looks great! The labeling is really crisp for paint marker; you must have a very steady hand. Did you need any extra washer or two on foot switch to get enough clearance?

So it looks like a slightly higher chance of a flaky ground connection using the enclosure versus soldered wires....that makes sense. There are some builds that might be worth the risk.

This isn't really an issue with PCB builds, but with vero I find it difficult sometimes to get grounding wires to everything. I've been thinking about just using the enclosure as a ground plane—tying lugs to the back of the potentiometer, etc. Aside from possibly corrosion breaking the ground connection, is there any other reason not to do this? Does any one else do it this way?

I think I want to skip this year, for the first time in many years. This next month is going to be pretty breakneck if I'm gonna get everything in line for what I'm hoping will happen in January.

Damn! I had some builds I'm really proud of this year. If that means more of the kind of projects you've been releasing, then it's a small price to pay.

Looks and sounds great! I didn't think I'd ever want to work with BBDs again...but that demo has me reconsidering.

If you're not getting signal in bypass, I would check the off-board wiring first. Most likely something is getting grounded that shouldn't be. I've had stray stands in hook-up wire cause that kind of issue before.

You can also post pictures here for others to look at. Someone might notice something.

Sure will—the electrons won't know the difference!

I LOVE the sound of this thing.  I haven't done any vero boards other than a few utility things and printed this out.  Right about the time I figured I'd never have the b*lls to get a real piece of vero to work this one out I get a PIF from over at PedalPCB and now I'm committed....

YASS!  What better way to loose your vero-ginity than to a double fuzz?! You might also wait a month and see if anyone else makes a PCB layout. 

Thanks for all the kind words, guys!

QQ on the schematic: are these two crossings junctions or wire hops? I'm assuming junctions, but am dumb sometimes. Thanks!

Yep—those are junctions. I generally try to draw schematics in such a way that there are no wire hops. Also, yes: 30° angled controls.