Messages

Out numbered 4:1 here if you count the cat. They all whine as much as the old cat.
Work bench is my place of solitude.

Hey Dave and welcome back.
Another Dave has a YouTube channel called EEVblog . Some of his early videos on basic electronics are really well spelled out.
There are several good videos on YouTube about fuzz faces.
@diyguitarpedalsau is another good channel.
If you want a great reference, I am a big fan of the Audio Cyclopedia. It's long been out of print but at 1700 pages, it has a ton of great info well layed out, if you want to get that deep
Analog devices also has a wonderful education section on their website. The amplifier and filter design books are good to peruse, again, if you want to get into more theory/math.
Even without doing the math, there are a lot of typical circuit design elements explained in only semi-engineer speak.

lol is the voodoo lab noisy? I read a lot of reports of noise. I think it's a really cool pedal and worth building. I wish finding a better quality type 1 on/on/on switch was easier because they only one I found was the tayda one and it feels kind of sub par. the one from LMS is the same switch as the tayda one fwiw.

I never noticed noise from it.  It sounded sweet playing alone but was completely lost in a band mix.  My type of music uses chorus alone and that peel just didn't cut through. 

I've been using the Tayda switches for awhile and haven't had any problems.  If you are worried about it get the Taiway ones from LMS.  I used to use those exclusively, but Tayda has a lot of cool options, like the flat lever, that seduced me 

I usually use the tayda premium switches also, but the type 1 on/on/on at lms is the same as the tayda one and it doesn't feel as nice. Type 2 switches are easy to find. Either way you should cure the fomo and build it!

First, that is an awesome sounding chorus. The low mids have some much clarity, very unique.
On switches, NKK makes great stuff, but at a price. You're looking at ~$4 ea minimum. I bought one each of a single and double pole last year out of curiosity and they did have a different feel to them than the tayda/dailywells I had. Hard to put to words though. Felt like there was more surface area it was engaging with internally, in a good/solid way.
I e been listing over the black ones like M2024BB1AW01 but can't bring myself to drop $10-12 on a single pole switch. Maybe for a build full of unobtanium that will one day be passed down to my great grandchildren...
I do see NKK used commonly in a lot of the medical equipment I work on as well. Generally them and alps though I think alps got out of the switch game long ago.

Top sticky in the eagle forum
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25194.0

Also, grab the effects layout library here
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j20q8jgpgq1cj0s/Effects%20Layouts%20Library%202.0.zip?dl=0

I have a project that's shelves due tolack of  inspiration/initiative.
Depending on the age and quality, it may or may not be noisy.
It can be done on the cheap though, for sure. I'd recommend some AliExpress parts.
Get a atx breakout board, about $3. You can pickup panel mount DC meters for under $2 each.
My plan is also to add one of these with an additional filter and smoothing stage after.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mr4z68a
They'll do cc and CV up to 4A.
Going to put it on the large 12v rail.
But, and this is why I stalled, the build is going to likely be bigger than most bench supplies.
And you can get decent used bench supplies for cheap if you don't need high current or voltage.
I actually have started on just putting the buck module in a small enclosure with a 3A power one module that I procured from the scrap pile at work as I don't really need the multiple outputs. If you do other work with logic gates or relays, maybe that would be beneficial to you but the workbench realestate is more valuable to me.

I like this one.  Best part is that it is USB powered, no screwing around with batteries.

https://stompboxparts.com/tools-supplies/lcr-tc1-multi-function-tester/

I use this guy extensively.
I'd recommend a set of Dupont to test clips if you don't have them. They're good for a lot of other uses as well but make testing tranny's a bit easier.
https://a.co/d/06ljork

Just don't forget to always discharge caps before testing them. I put a piece of Al tape on the top of mine for doing so.

My $100 Brother HL2270DW has been rock solid for 10s of thousands of prints and high yield cartridges are cheap online.
It's been replaced with the 2370 for a modest $130
If you get a brother make note of the cartridge head cleaning procedure and the cartridge replacement override but otherwise flawless.

Plug a guitar cable into the input
Turn it on
Check for DC between the tip and sleeve with a multimeter
0DC and you're likely good.

You're likely correct.
They probably have a single board made for all the transistor reissues and place the carrying parts on it once it's in NYC to make the different versions.
IIRC, in the bass bmp, they just added another 100 cap on top of/parallel to the existing one, and that kinda looks like what they did on that board as well.
A simple resistance check between the pads would confirm that

Definitely a Carling. Similar to some crybaby switches as well.
Tubes and more have one that looks similar except lugs are on the side, if that will fit.
Not sure if yours is momentary or latching though.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/search/node/Carling+footswitch+/?brands=Carling&categories=Switches

The oval (labeled 12MHz) is for a clock crystal like this:



EDIT: If you are asking about the ovals labeled 15p or 20p then those are ceramic capacitors.

Gotcha. Thanks. I figured it was one or the other but wasn't sure if MLCC were necessary.

On pedalpcb layouts, the fv-1 dev in particular, what does the oval silkscreen indicate?
MlCC, or just ceramic? Can't find a buil doc that states what type cap, or I'm to dense to discern the info.
See upper left and upper right of attached photo.
Thanks.

Another clean build. Be sure to try it in the effects loop. Straight to the return, no send.

I want to have strong words or perhaps smack a fool, because whoever labeled my breaker box labeled everything not a major appliance as "bedroom" and the "master bedroom" as not the master bedroom, till I was prepared to shut them all off, except we had something critical going on.

it's a bloody mess... eventually I'll figure out which h*cking breaker goes to the basement.

Same here.
I have one circuit that power upstairs bathroom plu(1, not the lights, downstairs bathrooms plug, dining room plug and lights, front porch lights, back porch plug, a single plug in the great room and a single plug in the basement. That's easily 500 ft of Romex running to rooms that all have other live circuits.
Labeled as "plugs"

How old is the house? Any chance that room is missing it's ground? Or the outlet is inverted?
You could kill the breaker to it and ohm out the neutral(bigger slot, left side)to ground.
Could also add a big honking ferrite bead to your next tayda order

1990, so no post-construction ground retrofitting. Can't imagine a singular outlet is missing a ground, or anything else on the circuit, tbh.

Not sure if the outlet is inverted. What sort of resistance am I looking for?

I always thought ferrite beads were more for data/digital signal cleansing, but I'll look into it.

Resistance should be in the ohms rating, shooting from the hip, 2-12 depending on wire gauge and length.
As far as the ground, never underestimate the hunger or a mouse or the haphazardness of a hungover electrician or framing apprentice.
Ferrites filter emi and rfi, critical for digital, but can be helpful in audio. If you're dealing with 60 cycle, no use trying. If it was hiss, maybe.