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Awesome build and sound, but I saw a different head on the graphic at first and had to seriously doubletake.
Brow line should be more pronounced maybe.

I haven't gotten around to my blue steel yet but...
Does the noise "ramp up" or just a on/off?
White noise or squela?
If it's a squeal that ramps up in tone or volume, even briefly,, could be parasitic oscillation. Check solder and orientation of your caps, especially filtering caps to ground.

For future seekers, pedalpcb has presoldered smd j201s for $2

I engineered 8n Nashville many moons ago. Dan carried more rack gear than anyone else. Tone was always dialed. Finished product straight to the desk.

Can anyone be kind enough to recommend a solution for me

I have a few pcbs for parts of this, be can't wrap my head around the execution.
Wanting to build a dual drive pedal(muff and brass master, aka a big brass muff master) with the ability to run in series and parallel and while in series, flip the order as well as have a variable mix knob.
Kind of like an ehx switchblade, etc.
I have a few fuzzbog spluffer pcbs, and any iirc.
Anyone done something similar or seen a good resource to do this?
I can figure out how to do one or the other, but not both.
I'd like to build the same circuit in a separate pedal fist, then incorporate it into the dual pedal so any bits on either would be awesome.
And yes, I know it's a lot of fuzz, but I'm down for that.
I have an idea utilizing a 6pdt switch that would toggle between the two modes that might work, but it would be a rats nest and am looking for a more elegant solution. I would also be forced to mount that switch on the side of the pedal, due to size, and have to work everything around it. Don't like that for layout or for reliability reasons.
Thanks

Few ideas.
What are her hobbies? How can you include her?
Start a reverb or Etsy shop with the wife. Turn it into a semi-passive income. Note where you source the pcbs and their resale policy.
Maybe a YouTube channel and Instagram, again, involving her, especially if she is into photography or videography.
Get into designing your own pcbs, so your builds are fewer and less frequent, but the "I made this" dopamine hit is bigger. Then you have 4-5 pedals to put up for sale and no licensing issues.
Probably the best idea: Build a shelf that will hold ~50(?) pedals, assuming you don't have one already. Whatever can fit on the shelf, stays.
Set a mutual goal for the income, have it be self funding and put the rest aside for a common reward. Maybe a vacation, college fund, etc.
If you get to the point of doing small runs, LLC and grow it together.

A Schmitt trigger would probably sort this well, not knowing the circuit.
I assume it's a sine(ish) signal on pin 14.

hey i have a 680 delay and it makes extreme white noise when turned on...any idea why and is it fixable? thanks

Start with any electrolytic caps.
I'm not familiar with the pedal but sounds like it's AC input, so should have a some power stuff going on. Start there.

Not as long as GM is still putting stereos in encono-s***boxes.

I definitely understand and agree with the statement about the room. The new G4 KRKs have a dsp analysis to help set the EQ of the monitor to the room. That's why I was leaning towards those.

Room correction software is only as good as the room. Anything less than 300 sq ft that isn't treated and it will suck a lot of the bass out trying to "correct" it. Better off using a room mode calculator and a linear phase eq with oversampling imo.  Or, that plus a measurement mic and Room EQ Wizard or the like.
If you do use the onboard correction, note that it is probably done digitally. If so, feed a digital(likely spdif) signal to avoid an extra ADDA stage.

The correction software can work, but don't expect the result to necessarily sounds good.
I'd recommend buying from somewhere with a lenient return policy. Make sure you check their monitor specific policy. IIRC, guitar center has a separate policy for monitors.
You may find the two results or either a muddy mess or a great lack of low end. But, it may sound great to you as well. I have to remind myself often that not everyone went to school for audio engineering and are capable of listening without being as critical as I find myself being at times, for better or worse.
Google machine "room mode calculator" and have a look at what kind of build ups your room will have. Take specifics measurements.

Herniated and degen here. RFA every 6 months a meds.
I'll echo, take care of your back.
Slipped my disc first time at the old age of !30! sitting down my then 1.5yo daughter.
A lot of dumb stuff and dumb choices led me here.
"Yeah, I can pickup that log and put it in the back of the truck."
Lift with your legs guys. Once it's popped, it won't stop.
Best of luck peak.
As you lay in bed recovering and pain meds, remember, you don't need -every- Russian germanium diode on ebay.

Aside from early gen KRKs, always had a translation issue. I'm a huge fan of ADAM speakers, but they're a bit out of your price range. I'm a fan of well implemented ribbon tweeters in general. The lower crossover point and transient response just adds so much detail.
A quick check shows the ADAM TV at sweetwater for $299 each. Haven't heard them but I'm betting, for the price, you'd be happy. 5 stars on Sweetwater...
EVE Audio(started by former ADAM engineer, see what they did?) have nice offerings as well. May be able to find some used ones close to your price range.
Kali Audio LP-8s are another great choice in that range. Way more linear than KRKs and pretty clean as well. There's a bit of phase smear at the crossover point but nowhere near as bad as I've heard on newer KRKs.
I don't mean to hate on KRKs, they're good "speakers" but they're not good monitors. The E8s were great. Even some of the 6k an 7k were usable. But the rokit series started a design to price point goal and never looked back. I've heard that the classic 8 inches is better...
For midfields, you may be able to find some Event 3 ways in that range used. There's the 2030 and another model I can't recall that came before it. Sound great LOUD, as midfields are designed to be. At lower volumes, they get unbalanced.
I always recommend listening to known amterial though. Find a local showroom and take a cd of songs you are very familiar with.
In the end, your listening environment will probably hurt you more than your speakers anyway.
A solid set of cans is invaluable.(I love Ultrasounds for those).
Rock on.

I haven't bought much from tayda. I mostly deal with digikey, smallbear and mouser, in that order. Pedal parts plus and love my switches occasionally.
Some bulk stuff from AliExpress. The big packs of resistors for a few bucks are a must. Think I got 110 values, 25 each for ~$4 a couple years back. Sort the in a couple of recipe card boxes with dividers in-between every 10 values or so.
But, my point in all this, is through recent comparison shopping, small bear beats out mouser/digikey in pricing on a lot of components right now. My guess is much of their inventory was purchased 2+ years ago before everything went up. Some silicon items were almost half price there.
Also, I've grown against buying silicon from discount sources. Get your transistors and ICs (and Electro's) of name brand from reputable sources. I've gotten trannies from Ali that were obvious rebranded generics with hfes way off the datasheet spec.
I also try and support the smaller shops as much as possible. 5 cents here or there is a small investment in the health of the hobby.
While I'm ranting, I do like AliExpress for bench stuff. Banana to Dupont connectors, perfboard and the like.

I'd wire both as always on and just use a switch to OR the inputs and outputs.
That way, if you use GEs, you wouldn't have any tone/gain change as they warm.
Sag could probably be done with a dual pot, or maybe mount two mini pots on the side so they could be set differently. Go from sputtering zipper to blitz as desired.
The kicker is, do they use the same pot values? If not, may have to build your own.
IIRC, CTS do have a few premade dual pots with different values.
Good luck!

I honestly can't believe how easy it was to diagnose the issue using the audio probe. I thought it would be this long, arduous process. I checked the rest of the main PCB and it's solid. So...it would be possible to wire the 2 foot switches, 2 resistors, 1 cap, true/buffered bypass switch, and LEDs without using the PCB foot switch, right? It's just a matter of following the traces to their respective components and probably some jumpers and wiring to the foot switches? I am so determined to get this thing working before the weekends' done. The new episode of the JHS Show is entitled, 'You Need A Phaser.' It's taunting me.

It would probably be easier just to wire it as true bypass and leave it at that.
If you want to repro the whole thing, first I'd try just correcting any issue on the pcb with jumpers. Unless you totally toasted it, that would be easiest. Otherwise, you could mount the slider switch and other components to perfboard or stripboard. The tricky thing there is getting all your solders and jumper on without the grounding out once you mount the switch. I haven't looked but I'm guessing the switch isn't chassis mounted, only pcb mounted. If that's the case, also a problem.
If it were me, if I could fix the board with jumpering, I'd just put one switch in as true bypass and try and get another board. But if you have some perfboard and spare components, wouldn't hurt to try.
Curious if you overheated your switches initially. I caution to only do one lug and let it cool.
Good luck and happy you got it nearly sorted.