Messages

Edit: 2nd question: which side of the velcro on the pedals? the soft or the sharp? it feels more "right" to put the soft part on the pedals, but i guess there is an obvious answer to this one as well:)

cheers

Most pedal manufacturers send HOOK with their pedals. Like you loop feels right to me on the bottom. THere's no "right" way. Just yours.

Glad to have pointed you in the right direction! One last thing, if you add the 1M pots for the Attack and Decay, Merlin suggests a 220k in series with the Release pot.

Under.

I dunno.... From Merlin's spiel:
Up to five times more headroom than a Dynacomp

Check out the thread on it over at DIYSB

Are you using a METAL 9v plug?

There's absolutely nothing that says you can't use 9v for the compressor. Brian has even included an extra 9v pad on both versions of the roadrage for just such an occasion. You're most likely looking for something that can get squishy and Ross-ish?

Jon's (Midwayfair) Bearhug comes to mind as being able to do both Afterlife and Ross modes, and then there's the Engineer's Thumb. No, my dear Watson not the novel. It's a Merlin B design and also very cool. Added bonus, Jon demo's the Thumb as well in the link! Jon also suggests changing the Ratio pot to a 500k vs 1M for more usability. Mark's layout is the 2 knob version, but in reading his notes underneath you can easily sus out exactly what to do if you desire the 5 knob job.

IANAEE, so I'm not sure if either of my suggestions can be used at 15v. I have been known to use the pork barrel and an Engineer's Thumb when the need for hairspray and spandex arises.

They are switched stereo jacks and quite useful. But a pain if you're not familiar with them. As stated, do some work with a patch cable and your DMM and you'll be sorted in no time.

Yup - That's "stock" CE-2, from the tracing I've seen and the tonepad (and it's associated) clone(s).  As Brian mentions in the build documentation, there's the option of a depth mod and an LFO indicator with the change of that resistor and adding an LED. You didn't add the LFO indicator but you did use the depth mod still. 

There's another mod you can do as well for those who need it deeper...

This is the Tonepad mod for depth
Add a spst switch in parallel with c18(47pF) that adds in another 47pF (feel free to try different values!).
If you've done both - you might wanna move r39 to around the 10k range. I did.

While you're in there you might as well add the wet mod as well? C8 becomes a 12nF with a 22nF attached to a spst in parallel.

Clay,
Excuse my ignorance, but what does the wet mod do?  Do you have a link for it?  THx.

Wet mod increases the bass response of the "wet" sound. ... done in conjunction with a c250k in series with R27 (an effect level mod) makes it more suited for bass.
http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=101 <~~Tonepad document detailing the mods. You'll need to trace and adjust their parts for Madbeans.

Yup - That's "stock" CE-2, from the tracing I've seen and the tonepad (and it's associated) clone(s).  As Brian mentions in the build documentation, there's the option of a depth mod and an LFO indicator with the change of that resistor and adding an LED. You didn't add the LFO indicator but you did use the depth mod still. 

There's another mod you can do as well for those who need it deeper...

This is the Tonepad mod for depth
Add a spst switch in parallel with c18(47pF) that adds in another 47pF (feel free to try different values!).
If you've done both - you might wanna move r39 to around the 10k range. I did.

While you're in there you might as well add the wet mod as well? C8 becomes a 12nF with a 22nF attached to a spst in parallel.

do not use them to cut guitar strings.  i put a little notch in mine doing that unfortunately.  they still work great though!

+2
Get a good pair of dykes for that.

It looks like Haberdasher and I are giving you very similar options for very similar costs.

The MM is your friend in pedal building. Voltage, resistance, continuity, checking capacitors, it's more than a battery checker. The Mastech does that in spades.  The diode feature is nice, but since it's 3.5v powered don't expect it to light up LEDs very well(but you can see they're not blown), but it is reliable enough in diode mode to give an accurate voltage drop reading. As mentioned HFE on any meter is suspect, but usually good enough to sort by. The continuity function is loud and clear but not unpleasant. You can check your caps on it too. Good for finding just the right value for a tone stack or when you're making values. If you leave it on, it will beep as a warning, after a little bit it will turn it's self off, It uses 3AAA batteries not a 9v. Also a nice feature - It tells you where to plug things in based on your selection, and there's an audible noise if you're plugged in wrong. Very useful for measuring different voltages. It does do the frequency and Duty cycle as well. It doesn't do temperature. I'd rebuy this meter in a heartbeat.

Before that I worked just fine with the el-cheapo from harbor freight. It uses 9v batteries and will die overnight if left on.

While you're at amazon, grab yourself a pair of xcelite 170M shear cutters.They're a great tool and worth it if you'll be spending time on the bench. For $6 you *could* get cheaper shear cutters, but why would you?

edited cause el-duderino posted between my read and post.

Are the docs from the previous versions moved to the discontinued forum? I got the previous green bean I still need to build.

Previous version: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/GreenBean/docs/GreenBean.zip

Not basic, Solid, and easy on the bank.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LVFS0/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$25 auto ranging. I compared about 100 parts between it an my Fluke at work. Good auto ranging and was acurrate to the .00x with the Fluke. I'm not worried about that kind of precision at home.

Sadly, mine are just black jumpers and therefore don't have the same toAn as your blue NOS ones.

Just remember you said that not me.

Bill - One could in theory even rig up SPDT switches with a header and 3 pins - DPDT as well with 6 pins and 2 jumpers. after that it kinda gets messy. If you design your stuff, the important spacing req is 2.54mm or .1in to use header. And yes it's awesome for all those switching dirt options. Usually. I however have a hankering for a FKR. That's a Four Knob Rat, with a lot of options. How you pronounce it is up to you. It has invariably too many switches, and a rotary might make it gig worthy and turn it into a Five Knob Rat. By the way there's a TON of great reading there. I dunno what happened to Dano, but I do hope he comes out of hiding at some point. The domain is set to expire very soon( 9 Mar ), and hasn't been reregistered as of yet... might be time to firer up HTTrack and get a local mirror just in case.