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I need to be able to set a few effects before a song and switch in and out of them during a song. I am realizing I actually need to build a loop switch box but in the process examined my Morley ABY box and thought I would post pics. I use the Morley at home to split my signal sending one to an Echoplex digital and amp and another signal to my reg amp.

I might use this to try my hand at making a schematic at some point as the PCB is so simple, not sure what software I would use.

In any event, here are pics- hope someone finds them useful:
https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B4HE5N1xRnHJdDVFb3NxbUUtZ2c/edit

C

Wow, nice clean layout and I love the clipping options. Did you have to put a lot of effort to making the layout be so symmetrical? You could give street names to the lanes in between the components!

Great job, would love to hear it.

Speaking of Tesla, I took part in this and it is well on it's way to being a success story:
http://www.indiegogo.com/teslamuseum

C

Hah! I was kidding, I'm always impressed by your experience and understanding of the circuits.

Magic is going to Europe on tour really soon, not sure when exactly but might have to be when he gets back. I am doing some volunteering for SC/BLM this weekend so that is out.

I'm pretty well set up now at home with tools, vice, lights, MM, good iron, etc. Have magnifying visor on the way. Need to get a small parts chest and order bunch of parts that are common across most builds to have on hand. I have 2 rub-a-dubs to do and am researching a dual build for a friend and some things for me like Bazz Fuss, Sabretooth, and just ordered a board from a guy in the UK for a Clari(not) cubed. Been fun learning lately, I even troubleshot the Zombii I bought from you and had success! Was just a solder joint on 3PDT wire but I thought it was the switch but using my cable tester, MM, and loupe found it was a simple re-flow job. Another issue was I decided to reverse 2 of the caps and made a mess of that- messed up a pad but learned to reference the schematic and wire the connection off the pcb, that was neat. One other thig is odd behavior of solder ssometimes like just will NOT melt, having difficulty like putting resistors in series and such and it just seems like for some reason there will be a blob of solder and no matter how hot I turn the iron up it is like stone!


C

You can always count on JakeFuzz for a n00b-esque greenhorn response.

C

Haha, I know. Sorry it's my first day guys! My old project manager used to say that when he messed up really expensive parts.

When are we going to get together with Magic and have a pedal party Cliff?

You can always count on JakeFuzz for a n00b-esque greenhorn response.

C

Thanks. I understand- my basic idea is correct- overall serial design, with certain modules having additional pots/circuits interacting with them.
I have been looking into the "Clari(not)" project and have heard it mentioned there is/was a Madbean version ca 2009 but I cannot locate it. Anyone?
Thanks,
C

I don't have a micrometer to look at thicknesses etc. The plastic def seems to be of a different type. Would help if I had taken all pics at same dist and zoom and lighting.
I got my Mammoth 4SFS3PDT-LSP PRO switches in today with my Mammoth order and added the pics to same link but in a sub folder:
https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B4HE5N1xRnHJNXlNbm5USURSYnM/edit?forcehl=1&hl=en
C

Thanks for the info. What is the LDR?
C

Usually a multi pedal has circuits in series. A delay, although in series, technically has a parallel clean and delayed signal. In this case, the Fuzz is in series before the Delay - those are the 2 "audio" circuits. From there, the Envelope and LFO drive the LDR from the delay. So the LFO would be part of the delay, not a "pedal" that would affect the audio directly.

Very cool, and great design.
I am contemplating a multi-pedal and am intrigued by your build.
Question- when making a pedal with added circuits (delay and LFO from your build for example), is the basic method simply adding them in series with a switch to control if they are in the path or not? I assume you would have to decide where in the internal chain they would be placed just as if the delay and LFO were their own pedals and you were deciding where to put them on a pedal board?
Thanks,
C

New mod board at GuitarPCB- http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3364008
This seems so cool, giving the ability to switch between 2 settings of any pot in a project. I can also imagine using 2 internal trim pots and skipping external pot all together in some cases.

Would love to hear other folk's ideas on how to use this board.

C

Very nice! Let's hear it!
C

I love my Zombii. I bought it from a forum member and it was what got me started in DIY.
Last night I was looking into Zombii mods and saw the C1 and C4 caps swap, so I checked mine and actually found the alternate values had been used but were reversed (C1 was a 47uf and C4 was a 22uf)
Well, even with a solder pump I found the process of removing the caps to be a PITA and messed up a pad. It was C1 neg to input and I just fixed it with a resistor snipping, not pretty but it worked. Audible continuity test mode on my MM is so dang handy.
I have not tested transistors before, but following these instructions: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/tran.htm I get NO continuity at all on either tranny installed or removed from the circuit (unpowered), if you have any tips let me know- I'm sure it is user error.
C

Mammoth 4SFS3PDT tear down

Pics of switch:
https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B4HE5N1xRnHJZHRvN0ZMSXd1dXc/edit?pli=1#docId=0B4HE5N1xRnHJYkdxRjJDa2QtNnM

I learned the "tappets" that push the flat "cams" are actually spring loaded- and look like a trio of penises.   
I did not see anything glaringly different from standard switch but I will have to do a careful side by side once I have another on hand.

Thanks to Blake at Mammoth for sending me some samples, and also they changed my order for Rub-A-Dub parts as I had ordered wrong value for 33R, very nice of them and will save me some time!

Ya the mechanism is simple- they work perfect after. The olnly issue could be the metal tabs that have to be bent to open them- just bent as little as possible with a blade and after re assembly give them a focused and firm tap with handle of a crescent wrench or other and they are good as new.

I just got home and in my mailbox were 2 samples of Mammoth'sr new "4SFS3PDT"
I will be reporting back here shortly with pics and comment.
C

THANKS!
1. will investigate, might make it a Cave dweller/Bazz Fuss instead, will have to see
2. thx- my friend loves nutty sounds so might actually be good
3. DOH! ya, 1 foot, 2 switches, that will work
C

I am considering building a Bazz Fuzz/Rub-A-Dub combo box for a gift and have a few questions. This info will also help in future as I can foresee doing some other combo projects in the future.

1. Possible to power from a single 9v battery? (I don't use batteries but he does)
2. How to implement a switch or toggle to flip the order of the boards?
3. Possible to have footswitch(es) to control each and also both at once?

Thanks!
C