Messages

I am pretty sure the Tagboard layouts are created using something similar to this layout creator:

http://code.google.com/p/diy-layout-creator/

This is correct. For tagboardeffects.com Mark uses v2 and Miro uses v3. After that it's all in the settings.v1 is what was used in all the old ones you see lying around on the internet. I have no idea where the verified stamp came from.

Any ideas what I should blow up with the two pounder?

The electric guitar that amp shipped with? Or better yet an Esteban acoustic?

Me thinks you were shooting an IED under the amp? Nice shooting regardless.

No way. It is a store bought explosive (tannerite) that I had inside the amp. Its made of ammonium nitrate and aluminum powder. When hit with a projectile moving over 2000 feet per second it explodes.

Ok so not improvised. Guns, explosives, sounds like my kinda day.

Do you mean this?
http://www.ontheroadeffects.com/vectorpack/

Boxes and Jacks pots etc can be done with that, and as mentioned Schematics and Circuit Design is best with Eagle or Diptrace. There are pluses and minuses to both. I have a feeling if Jacob or Ben would do a Diptrace video series I could have learned Diptrace. Jacob's Eagle tutorials are astounding and available right here on the forums.

Me thinks you were shooting an IED under the amp? Nice shooting regardless.

I have done all of the above, though I rarely sell for what they're actually worth. Cause the build time is therapeutic, maybe I need to start charging for my therapy...

Yes. Depending on how it's wired up, you can control the oscillation etc with an internal trimmer instead of it only being controlled by the setting of the outside pot(like the SDX is). As previously stated Jon is the man for this. He's helped others figure out where on a couple different delays. There is nothing "wrong" per se with how the SDX is setup, but it does depend on how your knobs are set each time. That said - this would be a VERY specific delay type, and not a everyday driver type.

Different people have different exeriencees with Krylon Rustoleum etc. It's kinda like parts, some people have the worst luck with Tayda-Mammoth etc, others have no problem at all. Experiment and use what works for you.
BIG thing to remember with rattle cans, it takes multiple coats to get even color. If you're getting the runs, you're putting it on too thick at once.  Drill it, sand it, clean it, maybe even do a primer coat with white or black self etching primer, then a coat of color. It may be splotchy. This is ok. Bake @ 200°F for 20 min let cool for 20 min. 2nd coat will be less splotchy or have decent coverage. Bake @ 200°F for 20 min, chill for 20min. Wash, Rinse, Repeat, until you have a depth of color you are happy with. This should be take 5-6 coats. Wet-sand with a suitable high grit sandpaper (Lowes sells 1200 grit of Gator "waterproof" that works great.) then go to the clear coat step. When you're "done" wait 2-3 days before really messing with it. Yes it's able to be handled in an hour. It's not fully cured for "up to 72 hours" They mean it.

These are rattle can finishes.
Octagon - Fuzz.
   

1590BB - Yet to be determined



Running a buffer wheel with some blizzard or red rouge over them probably wouldn't hurt either after the top coat, but only after a FULL cure. Before anyone asks that's Rustoleum Copper Hammered over black primer. It's a pita and doesn't always work out that way, just awesome when it does. There's a PC that does that always. 

That looks AWESOME.

How about this program? A guy at work uses it fairly well.

http://www.getpaint.net/

oy. If that came out condescending, I'm really sorry. Totally not meant that way. I forget the steep learning curve that's involved with adobe products.

the feedback switch is a good slam switch. Jon is the master at figuring out the best way to implement those.

It's easy to modify, just takes some time. I did this from memory in about 20 min. It's "wrong" but it will show you how easy it is to get close with a tiny bit of work

And therein lies your issue. Cleaning up Vector images that you've started with a regular lossy format is always a PITA. You might be better off with starting from scratch. It can be done, I managed to get a rather decent BMP image together for my own Muff.

The electric mistress type appears to be modified from Decoro which is a commercial typeface. You might be able to locate a similar one on whatthefont and adjust as needed in Illustrator/Inkscape  You might also want this Medusa typeface as well. Best of luck on it.

Correct on all accounts - Photoshop is NOT the program you want. Sadly it's what I use. I have a long sordid, clingy, co-dependant, manic, love-hate relationship with it due to photography.

Illustrator , Inkskape these are the tools you need. Elegant programs for a more digitized age.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=adobe+cs2+download

As previously noted some discontinued big A products are legitimately available for free if you look in the right places, and they are "all you'll ever need". A is quite well aware there have been 6 times as many copies downloaded as were ever sold. It was a very heavily pirated windows program (MAC CS2 wasn't subject to the protection that Win users were) and they have semi recently closed down the activation servers.There's an option to download the whole mess there, after you "promise" you have original keys to "honestly" download the "new" activation-less versions with the provided keys on the website. Install them to a modern OS in admin mode and run them in such. DO NOT install them into "default" directories. x:\ad0be is my suggested location to install them, in admin mode, and run them as admin. I've been working with CS2 since XP and fighting with the big A when Vista was released a year after CS2 and "Not Supported, you'll need to buy CS3"   Microsoft's virtual directory system confuses the absolute shit out of you and the program. "I know I just saved them on my pictures... " Did you ? or are they sitting in a virtual directory somewhere ... save yourself the hassle.

I suppose not a single one has noticed that the guitar and bass are fairly phallic? I mean, legs spread apart, guitar up and running your hands up and down the shaft neck? There's nothing sexual about it. at all.