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That is one fine build! And it really looks as if there is tons of spare room left. Are these regular 16mm pots or a smaller version?

Thanks for your fast replies. After looking at the casing i just have to ask how on earth you managed to put 4 potentiometers in that casing? Did you put some on the side walls or are all of them on top? I'd really like to see your final stompbox, if you find time for it.

The one you posted above will only allow one circuit one active at a given time.  Is that what you are looking for?  If so , you could use a DPDT as a selector switch ( 3PDT if you want to use separate LEDs).

Yes, that's what I've been trying to do. Isn't that the intention of the build? That you have 2 independent Fuzz-Effects in one pedal?
I guess both ways will lead to the same end. Except that I could enable both effects at the same time with your second option. But is there a point even doing so? wouldn't there be just a shitload of distortion, which makes your original tone unrecognizable? Also, if you say that two 3PDT stomps won't fit in an 1590A, that's not really an option if you indeed want to build it in that casing.

EDIT: I just had a look at the 1590A casing again (it's my first time with that one) and I have to admit, that my switching would never fit. I even doubt, that I could fit one stomp a regular switch and 4 potentiometers... Guess, I'll get a 1590B or something similar.

So, if I want to populate both sides and have a switching similar to the one I posted above (bypass stomp with indicator plus effect selecting), how would you do that? A 3PDT and a 2PDT stomp or switch (leaving the LED part off)?

My idea was to use them separately, not in series. That should work with my setup.
The only problem I see is to fit all that stuff in the 1590A!

Hmm, that's interesting.  How stiff of a toothbrush was it?

I prefer Flux Remover, but I use isopropanol all the time and generally don't have that issue.  Was this an etched board or a fabbed board?  And do you know where it was fabbed?  I have seen some boards with really poor quality solder masks.

It was a medium toothbrush and Madbean's Low Rider PCB, so I don't think that there should be a quality issue with the board itself. I was quite surprised by the effect the alcohol had on the board.

I wouldn't go with that switching. I'd go with two 3PDT's, each wired according to the MBP wiring diagram, like so --

Why shouldn't it work? I cannot find any mistakes...

Hey guys,
as I was finishing up my octaver last night, I scrubbed my board with a soft toothbrush and isopropanol (>98%). That did the trick and removed any solder flux on my board. Unfortunately it also started to dissolve the plastic of the pcb!! Now it looks crappier than before. At least I realised in time.
However, the lesson to be learned here: Go and buy some flux remover instead of using isopropanol.
I should run a mass spec of commercial flux remover, I really want to know which solvent it is, since iPrOH is a rather unaggressive solvent and a soft cleaning agent. Gotta find a cheap way around it with something in the lab

I'd really like to build a reverb! Anything of that sort would be great. I quite fancy the EHX cathedral, but I guess that would be too hard to build.

Got my boards a few days back! Thanks and good luck with the company!

Well, all of the International orders will include the 47uF 1206 caps, so you should be good to go then.

It's awesome that you attached these capacitors! They're the only part I couldn't get. I already wondered were these parts came from (I didn't pay attention when I emptied the bag). Btw., a good source of parts in central Europe is RS components, except for Footswitches and special parts like the Pt2399. Also, I get discounts over work

I got one question concerning the Nomojo Fuzz, though. Some of you were discussing getting the signal from the Fuzzface into the Tonebender or vice versa. I guess that's just a bonus feature since it is supposed to be 2 separate effects, right?

This would be my switching for the NoMoJo Fuzz. That should work?!

Thanks a lot! So most likely, the pedal works already without me realising it. In the beginning i built the mod with the capacitors but after switching to schottky diodes i went back to the original values, since I read that using schottky diodes and apply the capacitor mod is too much. I'll try to go back to the mod again, maybe then I'll be content with my sound.
Thanks again, you made my weekend!

Hey guys,
I finally managed to upload some photos. Please give me any hint to where my problem might be.
Front:
Front2:
Solder side:

I also wanted to measure the voltages on my ICs, but unfortunately I just found out a couple of days ago that my voltage supply seems to be non regulated, so I have no 9V supply. (setting of 5V gives 8.3V, 7.5V gives 10.2V, 9V gives 12.15V). Therefore, measuring voltages doesn't make sense for comparison.

Here's a list of the ICs i used (with links to the datasheets):
IC1: TL072IP
IC2: LM324AN
IC3&IC4: HEF 4013BP
IC5&IC6: ST TL074CN

If anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be awesome, I'm getting frustrated.

update:
I socketed the R13 position and tried values from 5k6 to 56k. The lower the value, the louder the octave up (which is obvious) and I think the fuzziness is also a little decreased, but the clean signal is also starting to sound fuzzy, at least when i play my humbuckers (which i always do). Increasing the resistor value leads to increased fuzziness and smaller volume. Anyhow, I can still hear no octaving up. I thought I heard some overtones with 33k and 22k, but it was hard to hear with the increased fuzz.
I also just double checked all the other resistor and cap values, directions of diodes, etc. everything seems to be as it should be... I'm really running out of ideas and would appreciate any help!

I just put the thing together and there is improvement, but it still kinda sucks. The fuzz of the upper octave is mostly gone with 2 BAT41 diodes for D1&D2 and a 33k resistor R13, but the signal is no octave signal, it's still like a fuzzy version of my clean signal. Any ideas, what could be wrong? I switched back from the capacitor mod to stock version btw.

Unfortunately, I have no diodes left over, since I just ordered the parts I needed. The only germanium diode I could get fast is a 1N60 (4mA, 20V), which doesn't work right? But fortunately I can get both of the shottky diodes you suggested.
Besides that, can you explain why the fuzz occurs? I don't really understand why it shouldn't work with the standard parts. Obviously, many of us applied the capacitor mod for stronger upper octaves without having these problems.
Would changing it back to the non-modded configuration solve the problem? then I wouldn't have to get the diodes.
Thanks