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That'll do it, I was expecting that the BBD output op amp was going to be the problem, given how close to the rails it ends up biased.

Yeah I've been down that road before, you'll probably have to keep an eye on ebay for used lots of old potentiometers.

It's not ideal but the rate pot is more dependent on taper than the 'balls' so you could switch those around and try out a standard log or linear for the feedback which are a little easier to find in 24mm.

You can also try and repair the wafer (I know pinkjimiphoton uses a pencil to do it) but perhaps if it had been fiddled with before, that might have already been attempted and failed.

What sort of pickups are you using? It's not exactly designed for high headroom.

Could you please also post your MN3008 voltages regardless, just so I can double check them.

1 & 5 are fine (power is switched for the MN3207 vs. MN3007) pin 6 should be the same as pin 2, there's a problem with your 3102.

Fantastic turnaround.

A week from release for one of the largest analogue delay builds out there? That's gotta be a record.

I'm so glad you're digging it! And a man after my own heart with enclosure art like that

It's like a DMM but better. Much better.

Them's mighty big words

Pots can wear out or suffer from skips etc, yes. You might be able to repair or replace the wafer rather than finding a replacement pot depending on its construction.

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm

Of course, it could be something else in the LFO circuitry causing strange behaviour, perhaps the electros have gone bad.

It's just the transistor bit.

Here it is negative ground, 'input' is R10.

Deluxe Memory Man, Overload LED.

Continuity?

Those subs should be fine.

So, you definitely have the scope & signal generator set right, have you tested you have good anti-phase square waves on the BBD clock pins and also that the signal isn't getting lost before the BBD?

If so the problem must be on the output of the BBD, perhaps Q4.

Sorry Scruffie, I thought I was making an easy mistake 

Wasn't trying to chastise if you took it that way, just mixing things up a bit

Okay apart from the MN3007 they all look okay, can you sweep the voltage on pin 3 of the MN3007 with the bias trim? Right now its cranked.

  Used to see him wandering around my home town.

Oh man, the gloves are off.

Lol!
Hey Brian... That's 3+ people interested in the DBD boards...

I bet he's too chicken to fit it in a 125B with stacked boards...

I have no way to do that (I wish I had the equipment and know how to do real tuning). I'm sure this thing could be dialed in even better, but I'm really liking where it's at right now. It can even do some "through zero" sounds when you run heavy distortion through it.

It was less about the set up (although you might find you're able to squeeze a bit more out of it) more tells us about the actual circuit and the sound you're getting. The A/DA also does those 'through zero' tones because of how big the sweep is and how short the delay can get. A cheap VC97 multimeter will let you take clock readings.

The SAD1024 seems to be run in a unique way in this circuit compared to the A/DA or the 18v Electric Mistress. All the outputs are run in parallel (pins 5,6,11,12), instead of just using 5 & 12. Maybe that's what takes the Morley over the top?

Nothing magic in it, instead of improving the sampling rate it's improving the S/N.