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Jon Patton's Clipper Ship on one of the new-ish Osh Park boards.  The Germanium transistor is a 2N1304 with an hfe of about 75.  Diodes are a pair of D9Es and another unknown Russian.  Originally planned to put this in a 1590A but mis-drilled my last box so I temporarily put it in a 1590B from another project that was disappointing.  This one is not disappointing!  I'll clean this one up, label it and redo the clear coat sometime down the road.

Here's the box:


And the guts:
 

Chuck

Very nicely done.

Our 17 year old Chihuahua's secondary name is Booger.

Chuck

Basically the Mini Vache is the Lavache with the boost permanently on and the diode clipping hardwired sized to fit in a 1590A.  The only changes between the stock Mini Vache and the "JTM specs" are the 2N5089 in place of the 2N3565 and BAT46s in D3 and D4.  The Lavache has different components but changing to the "JMT Specs" could be as simple as swapping the trannie to a 2N5089 since the BAT46s are already on board - that is rank amatuer eye-balling the BOM opinion not actual experience.

Chuck

The really cool thing about a simple distortion circuit ordered from Osh Park is you get three boards to play with.  This is the third of these I've built and they all have a distinct character and none disappoint.  For number three I used a pair of BAT46's and a 2N5089 similar to the Lovepedal JTM - supposed to give that raw Marshall sound.  It is pretty darn close.  With the volume at 4 o'clock and the gain about 11 o'clock it has just a bit of edgy grit.  Board from Osh Park and all other parts from Small Bear.

Here's the box:


And the guts:


I may have to get three more of these.

Chuck

Got an AC 130 tested at Hfe 250 as part of an ebay lot.  After pushing it around the bench for a long time I decided to try it in the Serpent Boost.  When I finished the board I couldn't find the darn thing so I initially put in an OC 140 that was around 110.  The sound was good but the volume just wasn't there - anytime you dime a Rangemaster variant ears should bleed right?  Searched the bench this evening and found the AC 130 - oh my, what a great little boost.  Board from Rullywow; box, knobs, pots, switch, jacks, green LED, and most of the fiddly bits from Small Bear.
Couldn't find a really bright box:


And here is the minimal gut content:


Chuck

Based on the Catlinbread Katzenkonig - a mutant, red-headed, bastard step child of a Rat and a Tonebender.  Finished this up last night but couldn't try it with volume until today - oh my.  Used 2N3904s from Tayda with Hfes at 270, resistors from multiple sources - trying to clean my parts bins, other parts including the mini Chickenhead knobs and painted Taiwanese 1590'B' from Small Bear.  This thing wanders back and forth across that blurry line between a fuzz and a distortion with sustain like a Big Muff.
Here's the box:


And the guts:


Thanks for looking.

Chuck

Built this one a while back and it went to the Box of Fail.  Had problems with another build that turned out to be a jack issue and realized I'd used the same ones in the Cave Dweller.  Replaced the jacks and now it's in the Box of Real Happy.  MadBean board, PT2399 sourced from Guitar PCB, black painted Hammond 1590A from Amazon, all other bits and pieces (except the jacks that didn't work) from Small Bear. 

Here's the box:

Found a plastic piece of something with a lot of holes in it in the garage, laid it on top of the box, masked the sides and sprayed a couple quick shots of satin purple, added some craft stamp labels then some satin clear and ran a counter sink in the LED hole.

Here's the guts:


Chuck

Second build of another Osh Park board.  Followed the BOM for the first one and have enjoyed it a lot.  This time around I used D9Es with a pair in D1 and D2 and three in D3 and D4.  I really like the D9Es more than either the LEDs or BAT46s of the first build and there is a subtle difference between the symmetrical and asymmetrical clipping.  Housed this one in a 1590B painted with hammer tone silver (ignore the whole multiple light coats thing and the stuff works much better).  Got the D9Es on ebay, got the 1590B from Mammoth and all other bits and pieces are from Small Bear.

Here's the box:


And the guts:


Chuck

This is my second build of the Minivache.  I used 1N4148s for D1 and D2, opted for D9Es in D3 and D4, and used a 2N5088 for Q1.  Initially used just a pair of D9Es which worked very well but then decided to try asymmetrical clipping - there is a subtle difference.  Board is from Osh Park, D9Es from an ebay seller, and all other bits from Small Bear.  This one puts on some nice warm grit and stacks very well with other pedals.

Here's the box:


And the guts:



Chuck


 

Really cool. Waterslide on a raw enclosure? Did you have to prep the enclosure at all?

The image is ironed on toner transfer with a light clear coat.  Preparation was scrubbing with some fine steel wool and metal polish before the image was applied.

Chuck

Excellent!  Could use a bigger knob though.

Chuck

Looks great! Is the star a stencil?

Close.  When I drill I cover the box with painter's tape and peel it off after all the holes are there.  After staring at photos of original forever the obvious star layout jumped out at me so I grabbed a small triangle, marked the star and trimmed the tape with an exacto knife.  A few squirts of flat red paint and there it is.

Chuck

Most definitely a Muff - a year or two later it was the Civil War BMP.

Chuck

Finished up this one last night a little too late to do a full volume check (past my Grandson's bed time) but the first very low volume check was pretty nice.  Just did a full volume noodle after I got home from work - the smile will not go away! This is the 7th or 8th BMP variant I've built (3rd on the Halo board) and it now reigns as my favorite.  Used an aion Halo built to Red Army specs with the presence/mid range control.  Found the box (non-Hammond 1590B-ish) in the drawer; Halo and 3PDT from aion (duh); green wire from Guitar PCB; knobs (love those Vintage Cup Cakes), pots, jacks and switch from Small Bear; electronic fiddly bits from Mouser. 

The box:


And the guts:


Chuck

Got one of these cheap-ish:

Supposedly didn't work.  Biased it and cleaned up the drive pot a little and it works pretty good.
Guts aren't what I expected for a $200+ Handbuilt in the UK pedal but it works and sounds a little different from other Germanium Fuzzes I've built - and it comes in a space ship!
Guts:

I'd like to replace the battery with a 9v jack and a Road Rage but I'm a little frightened by the butt simple wiring in this thing. Is it as simple as connecting the black wire to the RR's -9v pad and the red from the input jack to the RR's G pad?

Chuck