Messages

>This one is from 2014, and one hell of a lot more optimistic.
Thanks - I enjoyed that. He is more erudite than I was expecting.

>It's worth noting that in response to that keynote address, Marc Ribot publicly asked Steve Albini to put all of his music in the public domain, ...
Well he may have taken some baby steps towards this - he gained some notoriety for allowing his work to be sampled sans royalties, etc.
See: https://www.theguardian.com/music/2015/sep/30/steve-albini-rant-about-dance-music-turned-into-billboard

The new owner visited DIYSB recently - perhaps the thread the OP referred to? - and gave some justification for price increases, etc.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=115050.0

Aron over on DIYSB is in Hawaii too and seems to be well connected with the local live music scene.

wouldn't be the first, and it's probably not as bad as it could get...


...

But, I think a chopped tele bridge would look better too.

That is one gnarly frankenbass - nice job.

>the pickup was actually wired wrong internally: the coils were wired out of phase!

This is one way to wind a humbucker and may have been intentional.

>I have a big collection of parts,...

+1 more, except that I tend to swear when I run out of stuff.

I tried to have an inventory system, but this made it feel more like a job than a hobby.
I also tend to buy most stuff in bulk and can usually make do.

I guess it's a little different that you're used to, but having done plenty of 1590As, I think these offer enough advantages that I will rarely do anything with a 1590A anymore.

Also, there is no way any of the 3 builds I showed would fit in a 1590A - one has a rotary switch, another has a 10 LED vu, while the 3rd has 2 relays, 2 dual op-amps, an 8-pin pic, a PT2399 and a BTDR-2 reverb brick.

Give it a try (maybe with a smaller circuit). The most you will lose is an enclosure and a few hours of your time...

Has anyone tried top mounting jacks on a 1590B?

Yes. You can get 2 1/4" jacks and DC jack in the top if you use jacks with smallish footprints and/or trim the lip on the lid/bottom.

Not my neatest builds, but probably those with the most stuffed into a 1590B:

etc

There are a number of mods, which won't all fit on a switch, but I'm guessing that in the phase 99 a DPST is switching in/out the feedback resistor on each side.

http://aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/MXR_Phase_90_to_Script.gif

This does look pretty neat if you are using a stereo rig.

If you were going to do a new layout, you could do away with the 2nd input buffer and re-appropriate the op-amp to buffer and/or monkey around with the LFO...

Anybody know what the vintage switch does? Switches in/out regen maybe?

>reverse action tweezers

+1 for the most-used tool when I am building. Will have to give blu tack more of a serious try too.

You could probably twist my arm for 10 too - if nothing else, would be nice to have some bona fide chips in the stash to use as a reference for any others I have/come by.

I like them on the top, and have plenty of 1590Bs with this arrangement.
I have never had a problem with noise, but most are not particularly high gain. Realistically, there is only 1-2" more wire from jack to footswitch, and if you are worried, screened wire is easy enough to come by.

This is quite handy when shopping for new/different sized enclosures:

https://nonameboxmods.com/hect/hammond.html

And it defaults to giving dimensions in new money (mm), but imperial can be toggled too.

No problem.

As a first approximation, the heterodynes (new frequencies) are simply the sum and difference of the 2 frequencies that are mixed.
If you have 62 and 50 kHz, this gives 62 + 50 = 112 kHz and 62 - 50 = 12 kHz. I'm glossing over a few things and there may/probably will also be multiples of these frequencies - think harmonics in e.g. a distortion device. The wikipedia page is a good first point of reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heterodyne

The problem with a RC filter is that the voltage drop is sensitive to load (remember V = IR), so it isn't a great solution for a power supply that may have to deal with quite a range of loads (number and types of pedals). If you're thinking that you will just use a smaller resistor to minimise voltage drop, you may quickly discover that the size of both the required reistor (maybe multiple watt) and cap (1000's u) befomes problematic.
If you built this into a pedal and you knew the expected current draw (which probably won't change much), then you can probably make a RC filter work.