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So I put together another sunking pedal and it has a negative quirk.  The active signal sounds awesome.  When the pedal is on its amazing.  The problem is when its off, theres no passive signal and its making a really shitty buzzing, farting, dying computer sound.  I thought maybe its the switch.  That didnt work.  Maybe its a wire. Nope.  Why would the active signal sound perfect and then there be no passive signal?
Thoughts?

Thanks

What program do you use to design your pcbs?

Ive got a question too, Does the double delay have to be mn3005 or can you use 3205's?  I tried it with 3205s and it didnt work.

Yea I have done a bunch of mutlipedals with them wired in series having their own 3pdt switches per effect.  I think I might do 3 fuzzes in series but use rotary switches for  some aspects of each effect like the clipping diodes among other things.  This way I can use more than 1 at a time.  I'll let you know how it goes.

Hey Ive got a question for ya...

Im wanting to put maybe 4 small simple fuzz circuit boards in one box and make it so i can switch from one to the next with a rotary switch. This would use only one input/output/power source/ and 3pdt switch.  Would I use a 2 pole 8 position switch and run the input wire from each board onto the four positions of one side of the rotary switch with the input wire from the input tip to that side's pole and then do the same for the output on the other side? Then just wire all the rest of the wires to their regular spots?  Im not sure if this would work as described but your thoughts would be great to hear.

Heres the finished product

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I have 3 of them now after trying to build new ones to figure out what was wrong.  The pedal rocks.  The sustain is sick and it gets very dirty when cranked.  MadBean is the best!

Ok so I am probably going to get laughed off of this forum.  I built a beavis board type proto pedal to test pedals with.  SO when I build something I screw it into the hookups on the side of the box and test it.  So obviously this pedal is Positive ground, so this box doesnt work with it.  The problem I was having is that I didnt put it in any enclosure.  I just had the parts wired up and out in the open with no real ground.  I very ignorantly felt I could test this pedal out of an enclosure, the same way I test other pedals out of an enclosure but hooked to my own beavis board.  So, in closing, I appreciate the help and next time I'll do the obvious thing before I come on here and ask for help.  Thanks.

I will try an OC75 and see if that works.  I'll go back through the circuit to look for solder bridges and report back later.  Thanks

The 47uF caps are electrolytic.  The 10nF and 5nF caps are orange drops.

I know theyre not electrolytic, but the layout has sprague atom electro caps for all 5, then it says it doesnt require electrolytic caps for those 3.  So the fact that both pedals, built the same way with non electro orange drops at 2X10nF and 1X5nF along with the regular axial electrolytic 47uF X2, might be where my problem lies.  Ive tried reversing the transistor too and that didnt help.  Im just thinking that since Im deviating from the layout in the caps but using the same values, that might be where the problem lies.  Could it be that I have 2 bad transistors from small bear?  They tests all of them doesnt they? 

Also, mouser doesnt have sprague atom electro caps lower than 1uF.  Anyone have any as low as 10n and 5n?

I bought some rangemaster OC44s from small bear and Ive put together two boards.  Both are wired correctly and all of that but in place of C1,C2, and C4 ( the ones that were stated as not needing to be electolytic) I used orange drops.  I do get some signal but its very weak and distorted.  Is this my problem?
Im using regular polarized axial electro caps for the other 2.  What should I do?
Thanks

Side question, how do I wire in a status LED?