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I don't think I can measure it with a DMM, since it's only got two lugs...

I wonder though, theoretically, what's the difference between the On/On type and On/Off type of SPST switch such that an On/Off type wouldn't work. It only has two lugs, but, then, the diagram for the On/On type shows just the two lugs connected. I'm interested to know (every LITTLE bit I learn is tremendously helpful ).

Next time I make a parts order I'll order an On/On type SPST switch and see if that does the trick. It's the only thing it could be!

Thanks!

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Cam

PS - I think (though don't know WHY) the problem might be that my SPST is On/Off and the build doc calls for SPST ON/ON.

Could this be it?

So, I built the Uproar. It sounds great! I added the optional presence mod, but when I switch it in/out, I hear NO change in sound.

Deets:

- I've 95-tuple checked the switch (SPST) wiring...it's correct.
- I put a 1µf cap in the CP spot and a 6.8nf in the c10 spot, as per the mod directions.
- I pulled them both and replaced them both (just to be sure my caps and values were correct). They were/are)

Any ideas? I've got better-than-many ears, so if the mod DOES anything, it's reasonable to think that I'd be able to notice. And I trust that the mod DOES do something. I can't imagine it's so subtle that it's inaudible .

Think I figured it out! I subbed some NOS Toshiba 2SC1849s for the 2N5089s. It looks like my 2SC1849s are pinned out differently. The 2N5089s are EBC, while the Toshibas are BCE. I should just be able to carefully bend some leads and be fine.

Took HOURS of web scouring to figure this out. Turns out that the 2SC1849 comes in both pinouts. I found some legacy BYOC docs that explained that trannies with "C1849" have a different pinout than the ones labeled "2SC1849." The ones with the "C1849" label have to be turned, blah blah. Then ANOTHER legacy BYOC build doc out and out says that some 2SC1849s have the BCE pinout, which makes sense of the other build doc...Anyhow. I think that's it. I'll put it together in the morning and report my mileage.

Thanks again for the help, fellas!

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Cam

Put your black lead on your DMM on ground, then measure each pin of the transistor. Write them down and post them for us. If you can look up a datasheet and tell us which pin is which, that's very helpful.

Jacob

Yahtzee! Will do in the morning!

¡GRACIAS!

Problem is at Q1? that means that any of the parts in an around Q1 might have a cold joint or something along that line. Can you get voltages on Q1 and we can tell if you they look right. Also, double check the orientation of Q1.

And yes, you NEED to bias the circuit properly using the trimmer.

Jacob

Thanks, guys. WILL do! I've replaced the trimmer in favor of 2 1k resistors. It's what Keeley does and the circuit and board are set up for it.

BOM:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_dnr_ross_bom.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

"TR1 – Trimmer - 2k - Can be replaced by two 1k resistors as shown in the layout"

I'll look around the transistors for bad joints. As for checking their voltages, which voltages do I want? Wow -- that's a dumb way of asking that...what I mean is, do I measure the voltage from each leg to ground? Or leg 1 to 2 or 1 to 3, etc.?

Thanks again!!!

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Cam

So. It's my first real troubleshooting investigation. I'm really good with instructions and I'm very careful, so I've never really had to troubleshoot before. I'm sure it's great that I get to, since it'll help me learn. But, that's the thing, I'm almost totally electronically illiterate. So, I need help. Bad.

Here are the relevant build docs from GGG:

Schem:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_dnr_ross_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

Layout:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_dnr_ross_lo.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

Problem:
No signal when effect is engaged (but bypassed signal is fine. LED works correctly)

What I've done:
- Checked and reflowed all solder joints. There are no bridges, cold, or dry joints
- Checked ALL wiring, it's correct according to the layout
- Whipped up an audio probe and went at it

Here's where I'm lost. I built the audio probe, but have no idea, really, how to read a schematic. (I know, I know, I'm embarrassed...) Anyhow, I started with the IN pad on the board -- joy. Then C2 -- joy, R1 -- joy, C1 -- joy, R2 -- joy, R3 -- NO JOY. Also there's no joy on any of the pins of Q1. Nothing on R5 or C6 or anywhere else.

I replaced R2 and double-checked its value (metered 9.9k). Same thing. So, it seems to me (and I'm well aware that I can be, and likely am, WAY off base) like the signal just isn't getting past R2. I even checked for continuity between R2 and R3, which there is.

Am I on the right track? What's next to hunt down? I just don't know where to go from here and am REALLY frustrated. Lil' help?

Thanks!

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Cam

Count me in, too, for stickers and interface boards!

Looks good, MadBean! You're a good dude and this community is a great one. I'm so fortunate to have found it!

PS - I have a few projects to share...just have to snap some pics.

The Sunking's voltage is ramped up internally, so 25v caps really are a must. A lesser value cap is likely to fail. 25v caps, on the other hand, can handle the voltage.

Hows about an NJM4580L ?

The switch needs to be mounted so that the eyelets are facing the toward top and bottom of the box, not the sides. When in doubt, make sure that the notch in the switch's threads is facing down toward the bottom of the box.

got the 3130ez's in today and....the noise is gone.

Everything sounds perfect now. 

Aaaah! Glad to hear it! I love it when things work out like that!

So far, I've completed the following MadBean builds:
Firebomb
Slambox
Cupcake (x2)
Chunk Chunk
Patsyface
Glitterati
Neutrino
Sunking (not finished...in progress...)

From these builds, I've amassed some limited wisdom that I'd love to share with anybody whom it might help! Here's what I've learned:

1 - Be organized. Put your parts in bins. Label them. Have a neat workspace.
2 - Work from small to big when populating your board. Jumper wires, resistors, diodes, film caps, IC/transistor sockets, electrolytics, transistors, etc.
3 - Be careful. The more careful you are during your build, the more likely the pedal is to work right away which, in many ways, is ideal. Double check component values. Check for cold or dry joints and bridges.
4 - Test it before you button it up.
5 - When asking for help (in the tech help forum), follow the simple guidelines. It's helpful for you and keeps the mods from choking their pets.
6 - Always (ALWAYS) tin your iron.
7 - CLEAN your iron. Keep the tip clean as can be. Black spots are bad and really hinder heat transfer. Makes soldering awfully frustrating.
8 - Cut all your wires (a little) long. It's more of a pain to replace a short wire than it is to clip a long'n.
9 - Everything down the middle. What I mean is that, with most things in life, the target is right down the middle. When it comes to solder, you need enough, but not too much. You need enough heat for it to melt (and "sink," as I like to call it), but not too much. Etc.
11 - DON'T blow on your freshly soldered joints. Let them cool on their own.
12 - When you remove the iron from the joint, slide it up the leg of the component you're soldering. It'll cool better and leave the 'point' of the joint pointing up rather than to the side. Looks nice and is less likely to cause a bridge.
13 - Think and plan. Then plan a little more. It's like "measure twice, cut once." A little bit of care and planning will help with a smooth build, minimal troubleshooting, and clean guts. Clean and well-planned wiring (guts) help with noise and problem diagnosis. Plus, it just feels good to look at your work and for it to look neat and nice rather than a messy rat's nest.

If I think of more, I'll let you know. If this was unhelpful, sorry for the time waste. But I would've liked to have been told some of this and not have had to learn it myself

G'luck!

If you can save me a shopping cart with the appropriate parts for a sunking. 
I SUCK at these online catalogs.

For real, I'll pay you up front.
THanks!
rafegrigar@gmail.com

GREAT FORUM btw

PM me and we can work something out. I have ALL the parts (including jacks, switches, dual-gang pots, panasonic caps, resistors, diodes, enclosure, etc. all I don't have is an extra Sunking board and a 1044 IC for you) I could just get them together, package them up nicely, and send them to you at a reasonable $$ (just don't want to lose $$$, is all). If this sounds good, let me know!

Um. I know it's easy - but how do I accomplish this:

2PDT
DC Jack
Battery clip
No led