Messages

Hi -

Thanks for the reply.  The one in the upper left is a jumper if you use the non-latching relay and since I used the latching relay it doesn't get poulated (but two other jumpers do which I have populated).  The one to the right of the relay is a transistor which is shadowed by the relay in the photo so hard to see (i.e. it is populated)
   

If I wanted to just make this a plain true bypass with a 3PDT the old fashioned way I assume I would :

1) Wire In & Out on mini-mu board directly to 3PDT
2) Leave +9v, -9v and GD connected between Soft Touch and Mini-Mu board
3) Wire up LED old fashioned way with 3PDT and CLR
4) Wire the board mounted input and output jacks directly to 3PDT
5) Leave the BU and Hi and FS pads empty on both boards

Anything I would need to remove or clip on the Soft Touch Board ?   

No problem. Get well. This can certainly wait. 

 Worked on this some more today with no change ...

The only parts I didn't get from Mouser besides the resistors (which I checked with my Peak passive component tester before installing) was the 2 transistors ... I pulled the BS170 and the J175 and installed sockets ... put in some others that I had that tested fine on my PEAK DCA55 ... still no by pass signal just effect.

I guess next step is to get out my signal probe ... unless somebody has a better idea ??

I've built multiple VFE pedals (Blues King, Choral Reef, etc.) with the old style switching relay boards and never had a problem.  Frustrating since the effect itself is working great.     

 So I changed out the switching/power board for a second one that I had built at the sme time with identical components and I am getting the same result (no bypassed signal) but effect on is fine. No bypass signal with buffer/true swicth in either position.

Here are some pictures

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0ona6upi0widxl37olpjk/Photo-Jul-08-2024-2-26-15-PM.jpg?rlkey=8zn0k4opk6qp1mneozv2y1iog&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h67idegtezp9gs4p3kjj3/Photo-Jul-08-2024-1-34-54-PM.jpg?rlkey=quhilvxmj2ubxsutvjx3dw2qr&dl=0

Here are some pics



https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/asuyav1ih3q1ykni4115w/Photo-Jul-08-2024-2-25-48-PM.jpg?rlkey=h5lqouwrm2tq5tea18r0h8yoz&dl=0[/img]1iog&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h67idegtezp9gs4p3kjj3/Photo-Jul-08-2024-1-34-54-PM.jpg?rlkey=quhilvxmj2ubxsutvjx3dw2qr&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0ona6upi0widxl37olpjk/Photo-Jul-08-2024-2-26-15-PM.jpg?rlkey=8zn0k4opk6qp1mneozv2y1iog&dl=0

No problem I almost always do that (test in my test rig first) but with the 2 boards connected with stiff ribbon cable and 3 pots and 3 switches, integral PCB Jacks etc. it is a bit of a tight squeeze/ alignment trick so I soldered the upper part of the ribbon cable (to the switching board) once I had the effect board in and lined up.

I can easily get it apart.  I forgot to mention above there is also no difference when I toggle the buffer/true bypass switch (no bypass signal).

I also have an extra switch board already built because I was making one of these for myself and one for a friend at the same time.  I may just swap that to eliminate that.  I reflowed all the solder joints I did on the installed switching board as step one last night but still nothing. 

Hi All-

Just bult a VFE Mini Mu with the included Tru Soft switching board.  I used the latching relay and I jumpered the board approprioately per instruction sheet.

The effect turns on and sounds fine ... everything works in effect mode ... LED lights up.  When I click to bypass LED goes out but I get no sound coming thru at all.  Assume the issue is somewhere on the True Soft Board.

Any ideas on where to start ?  I can post pictures but it is boxed and the True Soft Board is "upside down" (solder side showing).   

 Hi all-

I've aquired a bunch of NOS PNP Germanium transistors and been sorting them by Hfe using a Peak semiconductor analyzer.

Question for you Fuzz Gurus ... I've built a bunch of Fuzz Face and Rangemaster type pedals before using the normal Hfe guidance found here and there, but never used anything much higher than 130 hfe for Q2 of the Fuzz face ... Some of these transistors I have come across have significantly higher gain (150 to 200+ Hfe) and very low leakage (less than 0.1ma).  Is there a better circuit to use these in or should I just experiment around with them in Fuzz Face/Buzzaround/Tonebender stuff ?  Not necessarily stuck on Fuzz either if there are other circuits but I haven't found much online surfing around.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Yes I happened to come across some NoS 2n3565 ... they all measured around 120-125 Hfe.  No issues with the build.

The box I got at Small Bear ... they have some excess ones they made for Analogman so came with a nice thick hammertone finish. Wasn't as cheap as Tayda but a cool little box.

Thanks for the feedback !

Outside shot

Just finished this Wolfshirt ... this thing rocks ... now I know what the Foxx says 

Thanks for all the help.  Couldn't be happier with the sound of this ... I'm more of an overdrive guy than a distortion or fuzz guy so this is great. Love the pots for blending the soft and clean clipping compared to selctor switches on most pedals with alternate clipping choices.  Here is the finished pedal :

Brian-

Solved I think ... based on your comments I went back and looked at the trimmer ... the wiper connection looked questionable so I cleaned it up and reflowed.  I'm getting 4.09 volts at pin 3 of the IC1.1 with the trimmer all the way down and the pedal works !  Still a little low at Pin 3 of IC 2 compared to build document (I'm closer to 3 v) but the pedal sounds good and plenty of gain.

Thanks for your coaching on what was giving me funny chip voltages !

Bob