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That deserves to be on the front of somebody's build.

Thanks for all of the love. It's super encouraging. I love the process and having something I can use all around live that I made.

We used a bunch of them in the studio on my bands latest record and it was great to get accolades in a controlled setting under scrutiny as well.

Next up... Something huge. Stay tuned.

Rock
ZZ

+1 on the stamped plate!

I've been working on all sorts of projects but 2012 was a busy year. Here for your general perusal however are some builds from last year.

Sabertooth:


Firebomb:


Green Bean:


Mangler BC108 silicon:


Wolfshirt with Octave footswitch:


Slow Loris:


DIG IT,

ZZ

Wondering if anybody here has had noise issues using ribbon cable for off board wiring? I'm thinking of tossing some onto my next mammoth order. I figure it should streamline things some.

Thoughts on the Chandler stuff they have would help too.

Rock it,
ZZ

Yep! I use little bits of stripboard myself. Works great.

if i were splitting the 9v out 5 ways i could run each lug of the dc jack to the bits of vero and then split them there? thats a great idea

zz

Thanks guys I'll have too look into it a bit more.

best,
ZZ

so you'd suggest a higher ma 9v adapter? higher than 200ma? 500ma? i am also concerned with clean power and wonder if there is a better solution (simple) / other?

best,

ZZ

Hey All,

I know there have been some recent multi-effect all in ones built and was just wondering how the powering is working out. I am thinking of building a 4 in one drive effect and just looking for any suggestions on the power. Do you think one 9v happily power a zombie / karate shop / slow loris / darkside? I'd love to keep the external power stuff to a minimum.

Best,
ZZ

wow what's all of that extra business in the clear case?

ZZ

so looking at the voltages now. from the solder side of the board starting with the square pad and moving clockwise i have...

4.61
4.64
4.61
0
4.61
4.62
4.62
9.24

As far as the germ diodes no open leads there according to my meter. I'm at a loss currently.

ZZ

thanks for the input all. it will be some days before i get back home to the bench i'll check it all out for sure and get back.

also im seeing that the bright option may be subtractive so i suppose if Im not using it i should jump those pads as well.

ZZ

Hey all.

Just built a Green Bean without the "Bright" switch. 1N270 in the asymmetrical and 3mm LEDs in the Symmetrical diode spots. with an ON/OFF/ON comp switch.

The 1N270 are significantly lower output. Almost off and fairly useless. It sounds like there is a little fizz underneath some clean but pretty low.

Both LED and No Clipping options are much louder but not a wild amount of gain on tap ( or rather drive ) but plenty of volume in those two settings. Op Amp is JRC4558D. I don't have a tube screamer on hand to compare but it's not blowing me away right now. I remember the sound a bit differently. Anyone have any opinions?

Best,

ZZ

No 200k resistors on hand. anyone see an issue swapping in a 220k or a 180k ?

thanks just checking there. i have seen around the internet the production model is billed at 5 meg ohms.

zz