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Hi guys. Just finished my 2nd build! I did a 2nd Moar Overdrive, this time using correctly sized components and managing to fit it in the 1590G box as intended. It sounds better than the first one too. I don't know if the components are the difference, or the fact that the soldering and wiring are much cleaner, but I'm very happy with it.

The only problem is the that LED isn't working. I wired it straight to the LED spots on the board, just like I did with the first build and it didn't work. One big difference with this second build through is that I used a 3PDT breakout board (http://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/) and since that board has its own LED spots, I thought maybe that was the problem.

So after adding the resistor to the breakout board, I took a second LED and touched it to the pads on the breakout board and it lit up just fine. So from there, I attached wires to the breakout board and then to the LED after cutting the leads short so that I could put the LED back in the original hole, and again, the LED won't work. And yes, I confirmed that I used the longer lead on the positive pad.

So what gives? I think it's unlikely that I got two defective LEDs, and also unlikely that there was some problem with the pads on both the main board and the breakout board. Are LEDs easily damaged by heat? The only thing I can think of is that I somehow damaged them during soldering, although I really doubt it. I can't think of anything else that would be the problem, and the pedal continues to work and sound great.

Thanks for any suggestions. It's not the end of the world if I have to live without the LED, but after putting in the work to build a 2nd one of these, I really want it to be perfect.

Hey, if it sounds good, who cares?

Ah, didn't even think to look there. Anyway, would be nice to update the BOM for the next guy.

I hope this is the appropriate place to post this. In this build guide (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/1590G/Moar.pdf), R11 in the BOM is listed as 12k, but there's no 12k resistor listed in the shopping list. The shopping list does include two 10ks though, and only one 10k is listed in the BOM.

I'm assuming that R11 is actually supposed to be 10k instead of 12k?

Thanks so much. That's what I was suspecting, but I wanted to double check before I made a mistake. I've seen some other breakout boards online and everybody seems to use slightly different nomenclature. I still don't know enough to know how to trace the circuit so I'm working strictly from the labels.

I'm a bit gun shy since I managed to put in the IC backwards in my first build (without using a socket) and also ordering a bunch of components that were the right value but wrong size, leading to it not fitting in the enclosure. I figured I'd be safer this time by checking before I made mistakes instead of after. Live and learn.

Hi guys. I'm about to build my 2nd Moar Overdrive (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/1590G/Moar.pdf), using the right components this time so that it hopefully fits in the 1590G.

I picked up some of these (http://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/) to simplify the 3PDT wiring, but I'm now realizing that I'm not sure how to wire it. I'm going to wire the LED directly to the Moar board, so I'm guessing I can just leave that part out on the 3PDT board, but how do I connect the G, L, I, and O from the Moar board?

Also, when I did my last build, I followed these instructions to wire the 3PDT (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/MBP_FootswitchWiring.pdf). I'm assuming when using a breakout board like this, I don't need to do any of the jumpering or other wiring because the board handles that for me. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the noob questions. You all were great help during my first build. Can't wait to get this one done and see how it compares to the first one where I used the wrong style of caps (and did a terrible job on most of the soldering). 

OK, apparently I'm an idiot. I used that parts guide, but didn't scroll down past the blank space after the sockets. Derp...

And yes, I've just ordered a bigger enclosure. It sounds great and I don't want to mess with desoldering again after putting the IC in backwards and already having to deal with that.

BTW, thanks for everything you've compiled for these projects. I went with this projects specifically because of all of the great guides you created to go with it. They were hugely helpful for a beginner.

Thanks guys.

Hey guys. I notice that the pedals on here don't have the ability to use a 9v battery. That's fine most of the time, but if I want to grab a pedal and go without bringing my whole pedal board, it's problematic. Is there an adapter out there that plugs in to the power jack and let's you use an external 9v in a pinch?

I ordered from Tayda and I don't believe they had different size choices for the caps. Where do you order from for pedal components?

OK, I messed around with the wires, and now it works! Sounds incredible. What a great circuit...

Still facing the issue that it doesn't fit in the enclosure, but I successfully made the circuit work and have my first functioning pedal! Thanks all for the help in the other threads!

Hi again guys. First time builder. Finished my build and got a bunch of issues. I'm doing the Moar Overdrive. I don't know what I'm doing enough to know where to start the troubleshooting

Schematic: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/1590G/Moar.pdf
Build Guide: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/1590G_BuildGuide.pdf

Here's the pics. Biggest obvious issue is that it doesn't even come close to fitting in the enclosure. I checked the values of the caps before putting them in, but all of them are too tall. I used the pots and switch recommended in the build guide, so I know that's not the problem. Did I get the wrong type of caps?

http://imgur.com/UnObgPh
http://imgur.com/1rwp77k
http://imgur.com/vVkdyec

Despite the non-fitting enclosure, I figured I'd see if it works since I could always get a new enclosure for it later. Plugged it in and it initially seemed to work. LED would toggle on and off, and I got a sound thru it when turned on. But when I started turning up the knobs, that's when the issues began. Turning up the volume or gain (either gave the same issue) gave a horrible squealing sound that changed pitch as I turned up the knob. Didn't happen if I kept them low. The pedal does seem to work though. When I turned the volume and gain up, you can hear an overdriven tone behind the squealing. Here's a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcIdbZ_kKfI

My wife likes it because it sounds like the call of the orcas, but I'd prefer to fix it. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks guys. I got the old one out successfully I think. New one should arrive in the next few hours and then I'll see if I can get this thing done.

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Nope, no socket. Soldered directly to the board, which is what the instructions suggested. Lesson learned I guess.

So, the good news is that I ordered an extra IC in case I screwed it up. So I can go ahead and fry the IC, as long as I can get it off without ruining the board. Any tips on how to best do it?

Ugh, I think I might have screwed up. Here's what I'm building and what I've done so far.

http://imgur.com/Q3ZYfWT
http://imgur.com/xafD9Qf

I just realized, after having soldered everything, that the diagram shows a notch in the IC on the left hand side. The IC I used didn't have a marking like that, but rather a small dimple, which I oriented to the upper right. Now I'm thinking that the orientation of the IC matters and that I might have put it in backwards. Did I just majorly screw this up?