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Wow,
I really dig this thing! Over the past few months I've finished this a Germanium Fuzz Face and a Mayo Muff and was auditioning each to see  which one I'd put into a 3 in 1 build. Overall I prefered the Lunar Module as it has the most usable range for my purposes. Anyhow a former student, and current alumni, asked me to build him a fuzz so I guess I'll have to build myself another at some point!
Excuse the long leads they were to accomodate the extra distance required in the above mentioned 3 in 1 build. BTW this is the same enclosure from the marbling tutorial I put up a while back.

Hello !

Fuzz face PNP fuzz face requires indeed a negative voltage to properly operate. The "charge pump" here is just a voltage inverter that provides the inverted voltage to the PNP transistors.

The loss of volume is a classical issue with fuzz face. I would recommend to change the bias of the second transistor in order to have more volume output. Replacing the 470R resistor (R3 here) with a bigger value like 1k, and replacing the bias resistor R6 by a bigger one too (some people uses 18K instead of 8.2k!) should help

Benoit

Thanks Benoit! Just to clarify, the reading on the DMM is SUPPOSED to be Negative. - Sorry, I just want to double check

I'll play with resistor values as recommended. Thanks a ton!

I buy resistors by the 100s when I run low. I keep a shopping cart as I build and when a coupon comes out, I buy.

That's a great idea! Stealing this one:)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all,

Building a PNP Fuzz Face with a charge pump to allow for daisy chaining. When I test voltage on the designated pad (between C8 and the Collector of Q2) the voltage reads as Negative on my DMM. Is that normal?

Also, I barely reach unity gain when the voltage is in the recommended range of 4.6 - 4.8. What could I do to raise the amount of available voltage?

Thanks!

Sweet man, my enclosure is already designed for 1 LED. I'll play with those values.

Your help has been invaluable.

That was super helpful! The pedal works on the circuit tester now! Just need to box it up for a final test.

Also, am I correct in reading the schematic and wiring diagam R1 and R11 as CLRs for the bicolor LED? I want to adjust the brightness. That's what it looks like to me, but my scheme reading skills are a bit low.

Thanks for the help Mich, greatly appreciated!

There is a mistake on the output switch
Flip C2/C3 and it's good to go.
Mich P.

Thanks Mitch! Just for clarification do you mean switching C2 and C3 on 
SW2?  What about the issue with C1 and C3 on SW3. I'm not sure if I need to follow the visual diagram or the name assigned to the solder pads.

Thanks again!

Also, any advice on

Anyone?

Hey fellas,
First time posting on this forum. I dabbled in building for a few years and took a break for grad work, now that's finished so I can resume

I have the discontinued Mysterioso Sr. and can't figure out how to wire in the Power Supply jack.

According to the wiring diagram the center lugs of  SW1 and SW2 connects to 9V and GND of the board respectively. Does this mean I'll also wire the 9V and GND from the Power Jack to center lugs of the switches as well? I can't seem to find a space on the board for the power jack to be wired to.


Also, it looks like there's a discrepancy with S1C3 and SWC1. If you follow the diagram what is noted as SW1C1 on the switch seems to connect to what is labelled as S1C3 on the CB. Should I stick with the diagram or the code?

Thanks!!