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hmmm, ya $2.87 CND as well. seems like a pretty decent deal, i wouldn't have thought a fairly large distributor would stock these. How old is this stock? Are they still making this part?

So basically, you're paying $54 more for something that is .01% better than a NE5532.

opamps have so many parameters, its actually much worse than a 5532 in some ways but better in other ways.

so it's basically how you measure it. and i doubt they have tested these things the same way texas instruments or fairchild have. for example opamps are rarely specified by THD since that's very audio-specific and i think the results would vary quite a bit based on the signal source and the load anyway.

but according to orange's specs, they do have a blazing fast slew rate though, that would imply they are good at amplifying high volume, high frequency signals. that's almost useless for guitar effects but it might be useful in a mixer or preamp though.

i wonder how (or if) they are able to keep the specs close from unit to unit. discrete transistor, especially jfets, can vary a huge amount from unit to unit. in an IC, the individual transistors are usually consistent as a result of the fabrication process.

I have a few favourite drops here in NZ.  Quite a few craft brewers in Canterbury, one of the most popular '3 Boys' do a sensational Wheat Beer and IPA.  And Stout.  Actually come to think of it their Lager's not bad, either.   

I've heard New Zealand hops are a bit different - maybe more fruity. GoodLife brewery in Oregon claims to use them in their 'Sweet As,' which does hint at a berry flavor, but didn't really blow my hair back or taste all that different.

i tried this guy when i was in portland over the holidays!! i actually really liked it i, it was not too citrus-y which i prefer.

the craft beer revival has been amazing. i took a few years off from traveling to the US and i really surprised at the growth there when i went back. you can even get really nice beer in airport bars now, just a few years ago it was all bud and corona (not that those beers don't have their place as well).

ontario now has a million different breweries. even tiny cottage towns seem to have their own. anything from Muskoka Brewery is usually amazing. their "mad tom" comes highly recommended by me, pick up a can if you ever see it.

here's my project from a while back. i still use this device. the jfets for this project are a little hard to get unfortunately.

Very nice work! I really like the knobs you are using. Are the aluminum?

they are aluminum or steel, i'm not sure which, but they are solid machined knobs which i love. the total recall and low rider came from a big sale at newark some time back and are the "multicomp" brand. the kraken knobs i forget where i got... may have been been for sale here on the forum a while back.

standard kraken. nice little filter! i like how the controls spell out "RAD" which was totally an accident. the finish is just silver spray paint with a some gold flecks which i did by hitting it with a short jet of gold paint.





lowrider v. 2015. very fun little circuit. haven't played much with it yet. i actually built the previous version that i played with a bunch more. highly recommended project if you are looking for an octaver; as always, brian put together an excellent board. i just wish the switch was a little lower on the pcb.





and finally a pair of total recalls, with xvive 3005's. great sounding circuit as well. good layout too, but if you build one for yourselves make sure you get the tall-sized BB box; fitting it into a regular 1590BB would be real challenge. interestingly, they sound a little bit different from each other which i'm willing to chalk up to biasing variations. one of them has better sounding chorus-like settings.

imho, its not worth buying old equipment to pull the chips, it's only worth it if you have access to a lot of them for free for some reason or you are specifically looking for a rarer chip like the SAD-1024 or mn3004 or something, most likely for a repair. it's far more reliable just to buy new xvive mn3005s.

Apparently my local electronics shop has the NTE rebranded MN3004 on the shelf. Neat, what on earth were they used in? (Same place I got my mn3007 for my last chorus build actually)

not much diy use, they are used for chorus effects mostly since they are only 512 stage. they show up in old synths and rack gear.

imho, its not worth buying old equipment to pull the chips, it's only worth it if you have access to a lot of them for free for some reason or you are specifically looking for a rarer chip like the SAD-1024 or mn3004 or something, most likely for a repair. it's far more reliable just to buy new xvive mn3005s.

whoa these yageo's are cheap even in canada, are they really up to snuff? i have been using xicons for years! always been reliable so i'm hesitant to switch brands 

Would swapping your wires to lug 1 & 3 of the pot do the trick? 

A 'C' pot would change the taper, so it would change your speed more quickly at one end of the rotation than the other.  If you want to completely reverse the effect, I think just swapping lug 1 & 3 will do that.

ya i think this is the answer, swap lugs 1 & 3. an B or C taper will both work (or even A taper though the control will be really bad). the C taper should give the best control over the lfo speed.

since i'm using the midi THRU jacks, there aren't any latency issues (that i can perceive anyway).

Do you know if its hardware or software MIDI TRU?

not sure off hand but most likely hardware since it's mostly older gear.

i rewired the system a bit and i seem to have eliminated the majority of the problems. i removed the excessively long cable from the loop and replaced it with a shorter one as well as used the midi out jack on one synth as a branch off the main loop. this effectively makes the chain 1 step shorter.

if i ever add another synth to the collection i think i will then be forced to use one of those midi thru boxes but for now i'm going to leave good enough alone.

I have done single sided board for midi splitter with 1 in and 3 outs if you are interested. It is unverified, but it uses very known schematics from internet and I suppose it should work.

the more i look around, the more i'm starting to think this thing may not be a bad idea. do you have details on the build?

Found this info here: http://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/39370/how-many-midi-in-out-daisy-chaining-i-can-use/39371

Every USB-MIDI connection adds at least one or two milliseconds of latency. A single USB connection typically is not noticeable.

Every DIN-MIDI connection also adds latency; at 31250 baud, a three-byte message requires about one millisecond to be transmitted.

A MIDI Through connection does not add latency, but the MIDI input circuitry slightly distorts the signal (depending of the rating of the optocoupler used in this circuit, which you typically don't know). This can result in problems if there are too many steps in the chain.

The jest of it is, the more INs and OUTs you use you will stack up latency. I have personally used over 7 daisy chained and did not hear any issues with outboard gear.

since i'm using the midi THRU jacks, there aren't any latency issues (that i can perceive anyway). it was my thought that the signal was degraded and lost though the optocouplers. tonight i will re-wire and see if there is any improvement, i seem to remember using a very long midi cable interconnect that i will swap with a shorter one, perhaps the excess length is working against me.

hi guys, I have several outboard synth units that are controlled from the midi i/o on my usb interface but I have been experiencing missed note on and off commands. i suspect that i have too many devices chained which is causing the lost midi commands. does anyone know the typical max number of devices that you can connect before midi signals start getting dropped? for the record i have 6 units chained.