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Check out the build docs at poodle pedal parts:

http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Big_Muff_Pi/p847124_6674585.aspx

Funny, I've just finished the exact same thing for the same purpose!

Mark

Wow! This is effing beautiful

Two questions:

what voltage is this running at?

Is there a schematic and build docs to this
or is is it a proprietary thing?

.....must have thing of beauty!

Cheers, Mark

190V on the plates.

There is a schematic, but my site's down until I've got enough bandwidth to upload it to some hosting that I've bought. Should be back in a week or so, but at a new location.

Brilliant, thanks mate!

Wow! This is effing beautiful

Two questions:

what voltage is this running at?

Is there a schematic and build docs to this
or is is it a proprietary thing?

.....must have thing of beauty!

Cheers, Mark

thanks, fellas. This place is so much more user friendly than google!

Mark

Very impressive, Muddyfox! I've got bags of superb Ivlark layouts begging to be housed, now!

bought some liquid, no clean flux on ebay and it came with pre injection swabs and
thermal grease. I thought my parcel from ann summers had arrived early! Eh? Eh? fnar! fnar!

The question is......er, what are these disgusting items and how are they used?

Mark

nice build and very brave of you! I'm awaiting a bs250 to finish mine: a stripped down basic/ no mods or clipping switches, version. Being lazy, really and also when I have too many switches on a pedal I spend too much time A/Bing sounds.

In honour of your build I will call it "mutton for dinner" :-D

Mark

Nice work! Also, the needlepoint under the pedal is very well done.

Your wiring is good for a vero build, but there are some things that will help get it even nicer:

1) When using a metal box and non-isolated (open-frame) jacks, you don't need to run a ground wire from the input sleeve to the output sleeve. The output jack will ground against the enclosure. That's one less wire to worry about.

2) Those X-wing switches have you running wires all over the place. Consider switching to the Alpha-style switches. I know they're more expensive, but Tayda has a clone for $3 that's ... tolerable. It's not just the appearance, though; the other kind of switches tend to feel a little nicer and hold up better than the X-wing switches.

3) When you're planning your enclosure, think about how many wires need to go to one place, and try to drill the box in a way that will result in the shortest wire runs overall. Cut your wires to the right length AFTER you have the PCB situated in the box. (Because you're testing the PCB before boxing, right?) A big thing I see here is the power jack up at the top of the enclosure, off set from the LED, which means you're running wire from the power jack, down to the millenium bypass, back up to the LED. That's a lot of extra wire! And it means running power lines back and forth across audio lines, which can contribute to noise in a particularly noisy distortion effect.

4) Consider using some doublesided foam tap to hold your PCB in place.

5) Orient your pots to get the shortest wire lengths with the least amount of stress on the wires. Think about where they're going to be in the enclosure before you even solder the wires to the pots!

Wow man, this is so cool. This place really is the best. I know you didn't have to take the time to check my shots out, let alone offer such amazing advice. Thank you so much, this is exactly the sort advice/direction I've been searching for. I will apply it all to my next build and hope that it will look a bit better than the last. Seriously man, thank you so much. Super cool. I think the ground wire from jack to jack will help clean things up, maybe not hugely, but its all about efficiency and adding up a whole bunch of little things to get a great final product. So taking that into consideration, along with orienting my pots and minding wire stess, crossing power and audio lines, and planning my drill patterns more precisely my next builds should only get better from here. Well at least thats the plan...

Also, I always rock it before I box it 

Ditto! Jon you are such a positive contributor here, many thanks! Also, I actually understand what you are saying here  

Nice build BTW, I love  the red llama. I gave up on vero ages ago because my builds always looked like the dogs bollocks, literally!

Mark

always superb! One day, I will drive oop north and purchase one of your creations!

Mark

superb design!

Mark

MB,

sorry you haven't been well. Please don't bust a gut getting my order out, I have an enormous backlog of stuff to do, anyway! Look after yourself, Buddy! We need you :-D

Mark

So sad. I feel your pain.

Mark

 Agreed, I love your attention to the parts that really matter. Fantastic work! You don't need to be a psycho analyst to realise that you are probably the sort of bloke who would get the drinks in all night and talk till the cows come home! I'll drink to that :-)
hic!

Mark

Most people would think there's something wrong with me.

Fuck 'em!

You are not alone in your muff addiction, (no gratuitously smutty pun intended)!
I have spent many evenings browsing Kit Rae's site comparing emitter and collector resistor values while the Mrs watches Corrie!

......er, I can only count 2 :-P

Mark

Lovely, shiny and orangey! I'm gonna be building this soon.

Where do you get the red copper clad?

Mark