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I am definitely not a high volume builder.  I recently started using these: 


And previously used these: 

It could be your wire gauge.  The model you linked to covers 12 - 20 awg where the typical pedal wire is around 22 - 28 awg.  Those strippers weren't designed to strip the smaller wire.  You'll want to get a stripper that gets down to 26 or 28 awg or is 'automatic'.

Just providing some feedback on my experience with mklec.  Placed order Monday 6am from SoCal with standard (lowest cost) shipping and received items in full on Thursday from Mississippi. 
Smooth order process, good follow-up, solid packing, items clearly labeled, with a printed invoice to check the order against.  I'd do this again in a heartbeat.

Disclosure:  I do NOT work at mklec.  I just appreciate 'the little guy' trying hard to do it right.

In SoCal, if you order by 9:30am, there is a good chance you'll receive your order the same afternoon.  Their catalog holds a wealth of knowledge and engineering data for 'all things' hardware.  They are a great first article/prototyping resource.

Mammoth Electronics.  Pick the powder coat color, select the drill pattern you want, make sure you check the box that says:  "Top Mount Jacks (In/Out jacks will be drilled on the north face of the enclosure)".  If you pick one of the BYOC drill options, the jacks are all drilled in the top automatically.  The 9v jack is always on top.

Neal Morse: Live Momentum
Multiple 20 minute prog pieces plus a few standard length cuts

Jason - Southern California

I like the fact that you can still identify the component identity (R22 or C11 for example) even on the populated board.  I guess that would work for pedals as long as everything was going into a BB size enclosure or we didn't mind using microscopes to read the circuit board.