Messages

This is the bigger box I'm thinking of:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1072

Hey! Yup, you nailed it: prepainted box, water slide decal. I got the decal material off of ebay from some scrap booking materials seller. Nothing fancy.

The side switch was done because I tried the top mount switch, but didn't have room. I think I could have done it if I had drilled a little lower. I'm not by the pedal right now and won't be for a bit (school just started in electrical engineering land  ), but I might look into Small Bear's bigger box, or just make sure you plan out the layout VERY carefully, taking into account the rounded corners of the inside of the box (that's the reason why my switch didn't top mount, but I drilled a hole for it... ).

Good luck!

that is killer..better than a lot of commercial pedal graphics

Seriously, those graphics look amazing! You should be very pleased with your work!

It's a picture I found on the Wiki article on "Centaur". I thought it looked strange enough to be cool (I think the whole "this picture is from a greek urn" is lame looking...OPINION ALERT! )

Yeah... So I just realized I had a wire going from pin one to pin two of the footswitch. Fixed it, sounds great. imm post pictures shortly.

That thing is lovely! Might I ask how you did the transfering of the graphic to the box? Decal? Press'n'peel pcb transfer paper?

The diodes used were 1N270 (for the GE diodes that is).

C13 = 22nF (should be 27nF...)

The rest of the caps and that resister circled should be exactly per schematic.

Could this be the result of the diodes not clipping enough kind of thing? (or the threshold voltage being too low so I don't get much signal out of them)?

I finished this one over the weekend, but I'm not sure I've got the right mojo going on, it seems to be either a moderately boosted clean boost when the gain is low, but once I crank the gain, it removes a LOT of the highs and there's still not much distortion.

Any quick guesses as to which part I should start checking for/from? I went back over every solder joint in the thing with my iron, so I believe they should be okay...I believe the only pRt substitution was. 370 pF insfeal of the 390 pF cap. :S

The bypass/buffer works fine and sounds pretty transparent from what I can hear.

Help?

I've used this little jobbie from Small Bear and it works well: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=870

I can understand that, and I know asking you, Brian, for a gyrator-equiped filter/boost is pushing it, I know you've got a ton on your plate already. Well, back to the drawing board.

I want to order one of these boards when they come back in stock! I'd love to try this pedal out without having to fork over the bucks.

As well as I'd like to put a picture of William Shatner saying "KLON!" on it.

LOL, are you sure he shouldn't say "SHAT" instead?

Haha, no, no, like a play on Wrath of Khan.

I want to order one of these boards when they come back in stock! I'd love to try this pedal out without having to fork over the bucks.

As well as I'd like to put a picture of William Shatner saying "KLON!" on it.

I'm still seeing some bunching up on the brightness of the LEDs and range of the effect, so perhaps I'll try the 5C9, but it works.

The strange thing is that I had to reverse the BS170 in Q1 to get it to work correctly... not sure what the heck is going on with that one, but hey, it works.

Thanks for the help peeps, I really appreciate it, especially you Brian for helping me get this thing off the ground at all by your beautiful PCB design work.

It now works as far as the logic goes, but it's dead quiet when engaged. Oh brother. I'm diving back into it right now.