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Hey guys,

I am attempting another 2 in 1 pedal and I had some questions about my wiring. Instead of the "madbean" or "goatleg" approach I went ahead and purchased two (small) 3PDT Wiring Boards from Mammoth Electronics http://www.mammothelectronics.com/Wiring-Board-for-4SFS3PDT-I-Industrial-Switches-p/1100-402.htm

The board is labled ruffly as such...
1. Input of PCB
2. Input Jack (Tip?)
3. Ground of PCB
4. Output of PCB
5. Switch or LED of PCB
6. Output Jack (Tip?)
7. Ground (3 and 7 connected)

Here is a drawing of how I wired my two PCB's and Footswitches. Would someone please let me know if this will work?

Blessings,
Roctopus

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That's cool. I like the theme and the cool little knob. Well done.

Jacob

Thanks Jacob! I'm having so much fun building these things

guts

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Repulsor Blast!

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This is a Slambox (Zvex SHO) build in honor of one of my favorite super heroes Iron-Man!

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wow...you guys are awesome! thanks for all the info

I appreciate your help so much. I think I'm just going to wire the 9v power from the DC in parallel like I did with my last "two in one" since I'm not sure how the 17v tap will affect the other pedal and I'm also not sure what value of the limiting resistor should be.

Hey Roctopus, here's a crude pic of how I wired C3 for the 'presence' switch in my Fatpants build.  I called it a presence switch because that's what I'm hearing with different values of C3 --- I wasn't really hearing more bottom end as I increased C3 but actually more high end.  I have a real EP-3 Echoplex tape echo unit here to compare to and, honestly, eliminating C3 altogether sounds the closest to the real thing as the EP-3 does kill some high end.  So I wired mine for 22n as a 'high' setting, 10n as a 'low' setting and no cap as the 'off' setting.  The 10n is a nice compromise . . . less sizzle than the 22n but a bit more bite and presence than no cap at all.

This was all done on a version 1 board --- not sure if the newer V2 boards would be the same.  Hope this helps!

Thank you so much! This was extremely helpful! I ordered another 22n and 10n box cap and look forward to adding this mod!

It's supposed to be a 1uF Film box cap. I know it's a little bit surprising, but this is actually pretty common in DIY pedal building. I was surprised in some of my early builds about this as well. I didn't know and had to make another order for parts on a particular build because it needed 10 of them, and I had bought Electrolytics.

You can use an electrolytic here if you'd like. If you do, the negative lead should be 'up,' and the positive lead down. Meaning, that the negative lead should point towards the Pot, and the positive lead should point towards the IC.

For C9, yes just omit it. You don't need to jumper it.

Jacob

Thank you so much! I ended up just re-ordering the correct 1uf box caps

Hey gang!

I am working on a Quasar (RC) build and according to the parts list C7 should be a 1uf cap. I didn't catch it until not but it looks like C7 should be a box cap. I always assumed that uf values were electrolytic caps and nf values were box caps so I'm a little confused. Can someone please verify for me wether it should be a 100nf box cap or a 1uf electrolytic cap?

I purchased a 1uf electrolytic cap. If it's ok to use that one, how should I arrange the polarized leds? Should the positave led be connected to 3 of the Vol Pot or C8?

Also, do I just not put anything in C9 for the (RC) build? Not even a jumper? I assume "omit" means leave it empty but I just want to make sure.

Thanks!

ps - I love this forum! I'm so glad I don't have to do this on my own

That is a really nice looking finish! How do you like the pedal?? I still gotta build my first woolly mammoth clone! 

Thanks! I liked it ok. I built it for a friend so I actually haven't had much play time with it but he seems to like it

Thats a great idea for a pedal combo! And a great finish as always! You must pull some wild pronounced octaves w/ the boost in there?

Thanks! Yeah...it's a lot of fun

Hello again,

I'm working on another "Two In One" project. It's going to be a Fatpants and Quasar (RC) in one enclosure. Brian mentions on the Fatpants that "There is an extra pad on the board that you can use as a ~17v tap. This is helpful if you are building the FatPants in the same enclosure as another effect and want to run the second
effect at ~17v." Could someone please explain to me what this means, how this works, and how it's wired?

I'm most interested in knowing if this would be recomended to partner the FP with the Quasar using the 17v Tap?

Brian also mentions" You can sub higher values for C3 if you want a little more low-end out of the effect. A 47n or 68n is suggested. Or, you could use a switch to add another cap in parallel to C3 (untested)." I also saw a FP mod for a SPDT center off switch at C3. Does anyone know who this would be wired? http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=686.0

Thanks!

Inspiring build! A+

Did you paint the switches gold?
Or does it just look like it?

Yes, I spray painted all the hard ware, jacks, bezels, pots, knobs, and switches gold. It's kinda hard to see in the pic but it really made the gold flake pop! The only problem is that it doesn't stay on well but it looked really cool for a bit