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Well, I don't like using pref, because I screw it up more if I have to re solder parts. I etch my own pcb, with decent results. Speaking of which I've been using Photoshop to plan out my pcb's as I find the learning curve on the pcb software too sharp, as I really know PS

I don't know what the terms "box caps" or "MLCC" mean

Yes, very helpful.
I plan on using the fact that the pots are pcb mounted to "mount" the pcb. Before I order pcb jacks, do you know off hand, do pcb mounted jacks have the same height profile or lower than pcb mount pots? Or is this a do your own homework sorta thing? I already have standard jacks
 

Working on my second project, less of a kit, more me bending circuits to my will.*
Is there a difference in sound quality between standard jacks and pcb mounted jacks, or is it just a matter of having more room in an enclosure.
Are all film caps the same? My first project used film caps that looked like huge red jelly beans. The ones I just got online look more like squares. Values and tolerances the same.
The same question about variable resistors/trim pots, first project called for ones that looked mostly like a plastic screw head to adjust, the ones I ordered more like squares with a little tiny screw to adjust resistance.
The reason I'm starting this hobby is not only I'm finding it cool to do this stuff, is to be able to build stuff with higher quality components. I've been ordering from Mouser to achieve this goal, but I am overwhelmed by the selection. Mostly I have NO idea which makers are better i.e. Earl makes the caps, John makes the transistors, etc.
*I'm trying to build a Bazz Fuzz with a blender function in a 1590b, because when I breadboard just the BF, even using big caps, I lose some of the Bass' umpth.

Found my problem. I twisted the wires coming from the pot tighter. Thanks to all for the help

I tried grounding the shaft, to no avail.

First, wow. Thanks for the fast response. I've tried a few different caps at the input, a couple improved reception. I did discover that if I touched the circuit side, pin 1 of the pot the volume of the RI increased. A lot. Maybe if I shorten the patch wires from the pot to the BB? Also on GP l placed an elec gangbox over my BB as a shield. no noticeable improvement. Also, I'm using a 9v batt to power the BB.

I'm trying to build a Bazz Fuzz on a breadboard and have perfected a single station Spanish speaking radio receiver. I hear fuzz over it, but right in the mid-range of the pot is the best radio reception. I have cut down all the component leads, to no avail. What are the usual suspects? TIA

Benny,
  First, thx for the link, it was very informative. I tried the reverse audio pot, and yes, much better results. During the course of my travels, I found that the trans I was using weren't all they could be, and swapped them out with a known good "set". Much better. My next step is to test the gain of all the trans l have in my stash, and match them up in pairs, then swap them out a pair at a time until l find the set(s) l like.

Thx Benny, I will post the results

OK, I know how to try a different pot,
off to to Love My Switches
THX

I have just bread boarded a fuzz face, and although the fuzz sounds great, it only kicks in the final third of the pot's range. Is this normal, or do I maybe have a bad pot? I am using a 1K audio pot for the fuzz, but I did try a 1K linear, but only a slight difference. Also I am using a Bass as my input, as I don't have a 6 string available.
Don't know if it's related, but I get different amounts of fuzz depending on how I pluck the string. I am using notes that are in the range of a 6 string.
TIA

Ok, I found the hum (it was more of a hum than a buzz). Upon a closer inspection of the switch pcb, I feared I may have tanked it due to the repeated soldering/de soldering, so l started over with a fresh board and switch. The sound improved greatly, but there was still a little amount left. Unplugged the headphones, and wallah...nice clean sound (note, I'm an insomniac, so the Mrs was a *tad* miffed to hear Bass, even softy, at 12:30am ).
Being anal, l first wired to two jacks together straight, then added the switch, one side at a time (by-pass, the out to the "circuit"), to eliminate all variables.
Hey the whole point of this is to learn, and l have learned something.

I am currently building a break out board to help me try different components before committing to solder , sorta my own take on the Bevis board. To test the board itself before adding a circuit, I tested it by jumping the circuit in and circuit out, as I read somewhere on line, to simulate a perfectly working circuit. In by-pass the sound is clear as a bell. When I turn on the board I get a buzz. I can hear the guitar over this buzz, whether there is power to the board or not. I am quite the newb so I don't know who would be the usual suspects in this case.  I feel I can rule out the jacks, as I get a nice signal in by-pass. Maybe my wiring/soldering to the dc jack, because it acts like it doesn't care if there is power or not. Then again, maybe the 3PDT switch/board. Or maybe because the wires leading out the the box to the terminal strip are much longer than the jumper on the switch for bypass. I have twisted the heck out the those long wires. I don't know where to start looking.
TIA

I would guess the same as perf board