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I use the right angled PCB mount pots so they support the board.

Please could you decribe how you did the face plate? Really dig it!

It starts life as a clear piece (1.5mm thick) of acrylic. I take the protective cover off 1 side and spray it black.
Pop it in the laser (painted side up), mirror my chosen graphics, engrave it on almost minimum power so only the paint gets removed.
The laser then does a 2nd job that cuts out the holes for pots, switches, etc. and cuts the faceplate to size.
Take it out, flip it over and remove the protective covering and thats it.

The colour of the graphic is a piece of thickish paper, i brought a pack of mixed colours so i can work with most colours.
The paper goes in the laser as well and gets cut to shape (slightly smaller than the faceplate) and the holes cut out.

Yup that is the way strava works, should get elapsed time and moving time.

I guess its to stop people stopping half way through a segment for a breather before carrying on.

Yup, not been out on the road bike in far too long though!

I've only ever ridden my road bike with cleats, figured if i got used to it without i may struggle, not had an incident yet touch wood )

Are you on strava? http://www.strava.com/athletes/530202

Thanks for the comments and the heads up about using the "Centaur" name, i assumed (wrongly!) as you can't buy one of the originals anymore (now KTR) it wouldn't be an issue. I'll get that sorted asap!

My first ever build report!

A K.L.O.N.E. with buffered bypass.
My first PCB with board mounted pots, sooo much easier, i hate offboard wiring!
Issue is in the UK i can only find the dual gang 100k linear pots on Banzai and there service isn't great.

This is one of the first batch of PCBs, next ones will have a few tweaks and will be black.
The main PCB is from iTead and the smaller DPDT board is from OSH Park.
Slowly moving over to Panasonic ECQ-V caps, keep popping them on mouser orders until i qualify for free shipping.
This one has 1n34a diodes, got some D9E's waiting to go in another, I'll measure the FV and A/B between two pedals, not sure if they'll be a massive difference but we'll see.

After trying many different methods applying the artwork, I've gone for the reverse etched acrylic. Really pleased with the look.

Wow!
I've yet to delve into the world of 1/4w resistors and 9mm pots, might have to dip my toe!

What size traces do you generally use for your PCBs? even the thought of routing that makes my head hurt!

So 8 BMPs in 1 enclosure?? 
8 sets of pots or are you going to get fancy with relays 

Not throwing in an IC Muff for good measure? 

Eagerly waiting in anticipation!

I recognised the character as a D as the D9E diodes come with the same marking.

Not a clue what a pulsed diode is though, pop some in a pedal and create some hype!

These?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/D311-ex-USSR-Ge-Pulsed-Diode-QTY-20-NOS-/250935802403

Do i win a prize 

It looks to me like the focal length wasn't quite right.

When you engrave the enclosures if you paint or powder coat the box yourself you'll get much better results regarding the contrast.

This is one i powder coated myself:



Sanded with 400 grit before so nice and clean underneath the powder, the bare aluminum really pops.

This is the result on a hammond precoated enclosure:



As you can see, no matter how many passes the result is never as good, just can't acheive the same contrast.

Wow, i'm envious of people who can perform etches like that!

I would prefer a plywood cab over a particle board one.
MDF is just another type of particle board

I've just received the boxed model to try out.
Seems to work well with most components but struggles with some tayda J201s. Pinouts vary, sometimes display as transistors. "Vg" when shown is consistent though.

Check out buildlog.net for lots of DIY builds. I purchased a cheap chinese laser after using a substantially more expensive one at work and wanting to be able to engrave things without feeling guilty if i then sold them. Its not great but with the improvements i'm making its good enough for what i need for the time being.

We converted a large manual mill to CNC about 2 years ago, use Mach3 as a controller and i toyed with the idea of somehow rigging up a laser tube like you mention. I quickly gave up on that idea, the laser tubes themselves are of a substantial size and i don't think its feasible to mount one on a z axis. This means the conventional, mirror solution is needed, with the necessary beam alignment moving from the spindle to the laser wouldn't be a quick swap. Added the fact that the chinese lasers don't cost much more than a 40w laser tube for me is a no brainer.