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Should I have another button to view just the pdf docs, too?

That would be great. I've browsed the PDFs a lot, it's about 10 more clicks to dig it out of the ZIP.

I second that emotion

That's uncanny you bring that up today as I just received from the factory these wiring plates for a Gibson LP (see attached). I had to rewire a 90s LP that had been modded and the only way to do it was hammering out the pots, rendering the metal plate in the cavity useless (cuz bend out of shape). So I reproduced it as a PCB, including a ground plane so you don't have to solder bus wire across the pots. It has nothing of the fancy options of the 2019 Standard of course. I was going to throw these up on the BST area of the forum to see if there's any interest in these things.

That's great! If it were SG size I'd def be interested. I might just grab one anyway.

My main gripe with the recent PCB is that replacing a pot requires removing all the knobs and pulling the whole assembly out. Granted, that's not something you do all the time, so it's probably not going to be a big problem very often.

I've actually got a project in the works that is a PCB per pot with molex connectors between the boards. Also has cap switching/stacking options via dip switch.

That's actually one of the main gripes I've seen about them. The individual board project sounds interesting. Since day one I've been scheming how to out a varitone on mine.

Pickups don't come with molex adapters wired. I find it easier to just bypass the board completely.


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That's the other big gripe I've seen. Would there be any way to connect pickups that would not make One want to bypass the PCB?

Other than the molex type connector clips on you pickup wires, is there anything really wrong with the Gibson wiring pcb's? How could they be made better?

Could they have used a speaker type compression connector for the pickups instead?

Should they cater more to drop-in type mods like independantly replaceable pots and/or switchable max resistance change, and things like a dip switch for 50's wiring?

I'm interested to hear opinions and ideas, especially those with experience since I have none. I like the concept and have a similar handwired config (4 push/pulls w spilt, phase, series, and 50's wiring) in my 2005 SG, but (of course) I have read a bunch of general negativity amongst fellow internetees.



Edit: There are some interesting insights from Randall Smith in this article about PCB vs PTP where he talks about wiring "black magic" that includes tone shaping from wire/trace coupling capacitance. He also talks about the wide surface area of the PCB trace being better for carrying the top end... Food for thought.

https://web.archive.org/web/20070205090818/http://www.mesaboogie.com/US/Smith/point-to-point.html


Here is what mine looks like... a big bowl of spaghetti... I wonder if there is any black magic in there?

What version of SMF? What database are you using? MySQL, PostgreSQL, or SQLite. I have seen issues like that with PostgreSQL.

How do you repair it?...restore from backup?


edit: I see at the bottom it's SMF 2.0.12

Oh, and I'll probably get some USB-C to USB 3 connectors anyway

USB-C is a physical connection type
USB 3.0, 3.1, 3.2 are transfer rate standards

Most anyrhing with a USB-C port is generally USB 3.x capable. But it is possible to connect a USB 2 device such as an audio interface to a USB-C port

Isn't USB-C the same as thunderbolt port?

USB-C and Thunderbolt 3 cables are cross compatible, but the USB 3 and Thunderbolt standards are different and not compatible. You may have some devices that seemingly work with both if that device has core driver compatibility.

...Just a word of caution when selecting an interface.


BTW, I use a Roland DUO-CAPTURE EX USB Interface since it works with my old iPad and my PC

Yeah. It's just for looks. Dropping the parts through and bending the leads works just fine.

Phew... thanks.

Best practice is to clip before you solder to avoid cracking the joint but I don't even worry about that.

I do, do that... I was delirious, I meant I cut them after before I solder.

yes I said do do

edit: damnit, I somehow did it again

Weird, I thought everybody bent the leads and then flipped it over. The only time I use poster tack on the topside is on IC sockets and similar, stuff that you can't bend leads on to keep them in place when you flip the board.

Fun to see how many different ways there are of doing this.

Same here

Actually I use blu-tack to hold stuff really straight and do a few components at a time. Lately I've been doing like CJ and soldering one leg on each component first, flipping to check that parts are lined up, and tacking down the other side. I enjoy the slow pace for some reason.

I slightly bend the leads "outward" to keep the parts from falling out. I place like 8-10 parts at a time, then solder just one side of each part (or the center lead of a transistor). Then I flip the board back over and make sure alignment is good, etc. If I need to adjust, it's easier if only one side is soldered. Then I flip back over and solder the other side. Goes pretty fast once you get used to it.

What's all this alignment business!... Are we talking a presentation/neatness type thing or have I been missing something?

I just bend them over and cut them short after they are soldered. Is that a bad/rookie way to do it?

Not all in one but prob cheaper

Try this... Use your neck pickup. Turn off the dist and comp knobs down( which turns off the BC and OS) and the octave knob all the way up. Now play single notes around the 12 the fret. If you have a clean-ish boost in front, even better. If you don't have a boost, try the dist knob up a bit. You should get a more traditional octave sound

The Triplet is 3 of the Dan Armstrong effects in one box. The Blue Clipper, the Orange Squeezer, and the Green Ringer. So the octave control is just the GR

Very unique. The gadget he's using to produce the bassline kinda sounds similar to a Whamola

Yes, fuzzy like a ring mod

Yep, that sounds about right. It will also dropout the first time you play after adjusting the comp knob. It's a tricky beast but it sounds pretty good.  Mine also doesn't have a lot of bass or even low mids

The next time you throw away a plastic container that you can't recycle just put it in there. It"ll be fine for 1000 years