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I've seen this question asked in a couple of build reports, but I don't think it was ever answered:
Is there a way to tone down the effect of the slam switch? 

I'd like it to either oscillate a little less wildly, or get to that wild point a little slower or both.

Over on the left on the music stand, that looks like a Zoom hard disk (or CD?) recorder.  I have one - MRS1044 - which I haven't used in a few years.  I just broke it out on Monday to get started with it again.

If that's what it is, do you use it much?  If yes, do you use the built in effects?

You can actually pick up a little more clearance for the jacks by turning the stomp switch 30 - 45 degrees.

Finished my Stage Fright yesterday.  Great sounding pedal.  I had a purple powdercoated enclosure from Smallbear.

Great looking pedal!

I am now doing 4-5 coats of clear for that very reason.  I have to try enviro.  At the speed I work, it will probably take 6 months for me to build a million pedals.

Exciting news!  I wish you the best!

I wish I saw that first.  Finally a technical issue I could have helped with.   

fwiw, i never clearcoat Before i apply the decal.

Ditto.  I use laser decals now, but even before I got my laser I never clearcoated first.

I'm getting better at this.  I usually figure out that I have done this in less than 10 minutes.  It used to take me a lot longer.   

I could be wrong about this, but to me, the Cardinal Tremolo from 1776 can get the Fender trem sound.

I haven't built mine yet, but that's why I bought it.   

Stunning!

Great build!  You complain about decals, but you made this one look like an etch.  I need to try that.

When your wife observes that 2 years ago you owned 2 pedals and you now own 23 (that she knows of  ), and she points out that you NEVER play outside your bedroom.

I started doing my graphics in Inkscape last year. 

I create a blank Inkscape document with the enclosure outline.  Then I create a layer called 'Template', and I import the page from the pdf with the drill template & line it up with the outline.  Before creating any graphics, I print that out and see if it lines up to the board with the pots & switches mounted.  If not, I resize the template layer until it is perfect.  It can then be used to drill.

At that point it is possible to create the graphics on a new layer leaving the template visible underneath.

Then I know that (if my drilling is accurate...) the graphics will line up with the drilled holes.

Crap!  I just got the ship notice on my most recent Tayda order.