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I ended up going with a company here in Nashville called Stringjoy and got some brass strings that really fit the bill. It did perk up me Martin. Now the question is how long will it last. If a good amount of time then I think I'll stick with them and I get to give back to a Nashville business.

You got me man. I must admit this skeptic was quite shocked at what it did and I can't get my head around how it could vibrate wood to get the different sounds it did. I don't think it actually manipulates the signal.

Anyone ever used one and or know anyone who has ever used one?

https://www.tonewoodamp.com/

Great suggestions guys. Thanks. I will poke around a bit.

So I have a relatively new mahogany Martin and it is just a tad dark sounding for my tastes. When I plug in of course I can adjust and it sounds great. But unplugged I need more chime for what I like to hear.

Is there such a thing as some strings being more chimey than others? What strings might you guys suggest in this situation?

In the body of the data sheet it says the NC's should go to ground. I'm just trying to figure out how I could rig something to where the IC works and Ive tied that pin to ground. I was thinking I could solder a wire in on pin 16 with the socket and the IC but then that IC will have to stay there given I'm soldering it in. The down side, assuming that would even work, is I can't test the other chip. Of course I do have a second board as Haberdasher etched me two but I hate to ditch this board if somone has a more ingenious way of saving it.

Question. I assume I can ground that anywhere or do I have to tie it into the board?

Well it was going so well desoldering the socket for the SAD then pin 16 I lifted the trace. Or, that was the issue the whole time as that was the pin in the socket that got all floppy jawed on me. So, per the data sheet it calls this pin NC and says it should be connected to ground.

If you guys were me and you wanted to make this work as opposed to tossing the board what might you rig for this lifted trace?

Just to update the thread I replaced the Road Rage board and the pedal worked with minimal or I guess normal noise. While I can't pinpoint why in looking at the old RR board as it looks good apparently there was an issue on that board. But in a comical moment, one has to laugh at times, I had 2 of the SAD chips so I wanted to test the second one. I pulled the chip out and noticed that pin 16 of the socket pulled up. Never had that happen before. I pushed it back down wondering if the socket was buggered up. I put the chip back it and of course nothing works. Dead quiet when I kick the pedal on. I said one has to laugh right?

So I guess I'll desolder a 16 pin socket. This should be fun. Hope I don't jack up the board doing this. I suppose I could attempt to solder in the pin that is not connecting but then all kinds of bad crap could happen. I could solder it in with of course chip in there and it still doesn't work. I could burn out the chip maybe, dunno.

Who says this hobby isn't fun 

The original MXR Flanger ran at 15VDC (regulated internally)

According to the datasheet for the SAD, the MAX operating voltage is 20VDC however, the MAX clock voltage is 17VDC  Now, I do not know if that means 17V for EACH clock input or 17V to be split in half for each individual clock input or 8.5VDC

Either way, I would recommend that you go for the 15VDC option to stay true to the original design.

So with the RR board I just want a second opinion on this. When installing the regulator I want to make sure I have the right pinout. I read the data sheet on the 7815 but I'm not settled on where pin 1 is on the RR board. My reading of it is that when installing the metal back of the 7815 would lay flat (again I won't flatten it) on the RR board, correct? As opposed to the plastic 'box' laying flat on the board.

So as it turns out, I should never rely on memory at work, I was running it at 18v and that is the reason I didn't put in a regulator. I'm using an old Road Rage board which corresponds with Bean's 2012 build doc.

So I figured let me rewire for 15, add a regulator and see what happens. Well. when I did that all I got was this huge hum and the pedal pretty much didn't work any longer or I could just barely make out an audible swoosh but he hum is so loud, even with guitar volume off, I have to shut the pedal off or something like my speaker might blow! So because of this hum and my lack of time this weekend apparently I didn't bother with shielding the wire yet. I did put in a C500k Speed pot though.

So, I ran out of time to fiddle around. How about if I punt and start from scratch here and I'll work up a new RR board to power this thing.

If you were me would you run this thing at 18v no reg per the RR BOM or 15 with reg? Also, the correct orientation of the 7815 was where the metal backing would lay flat on the RR board (I made sure it didn't so as not to touch the SAG control eyelets), correct?

Out of curiosity, would running it at 9v be such a bad idea I wonder?

It finally hit me after Scruff's second post. The word "Doh" came to mind with a forehead slap. I plan to do all these things on my long weekend. I'm off work tomorrow.

Thanks to both of you and I'll report back.

Speed should be C500k, that's nearly always the case unless the pot is being used as a voltage divider but that will only help with the action of the speed pot.

Your wiring could do with being a bit neater, wont help with hiss but it will with any stray sweeping noise. Or just shield it as already discussed.

But mainly, as Lacky pointed out, where's your regulator? An unfiltered/unregulated charge pump running in to a flanger is going to be noisy, the circuit doesn't have any kind of power filtering on the audio. It would probably be worth running a 2W 10R after the regulator to the board as well to create a filter.

It should be a reasonably quiet flanger, S/N is good and there's a decent amount of audio filtering.

Hey Scruff, I'm using an LT1054 if I recall right on the Road Rage with a regulated 9v PS off a Voodoo Labs PS for either 15v or 18v operation. I forget what I decided to try to run it on off hand. I do plan to shield. My wiring looks worse since I've been taking it out and playing with it but I'll route things better when I shut the box up for good.

I am a little confused though with respect to the Speed pot. In the BOM for this project there is not a Speed pot. There is a Sweep along with the Manual, Regen and Width. But, I'm guessing the Sweep should maybe be a C500k?

Are you saying I should regulate more with the 2w10r in some way?

So, in my docs it calls it a Sweep pot and not Speed. But if you look in the original manual for this pedal on line it is called a Speed pot. So, I'm thinking maybe it should be C500k. I used an A500k. I'm not sure that solves anything noise related but interesting nonetheless.

Looks like he got his chops from Jerry Lee Lewis.

Well, for sure all the speed pots are C rather than A on the builds I've built but i don't recall if I caught that when I built it. I built this several months ago but got into a kitchen project and didn't get back to this one for a bit. I'm at work so I'll have to look at the build.

My multimeter doesn't have Freq measurements. This is the model  https://www.circuitspecialists.com/digital-multimeter-csi2010.html