Messages

I have been working on a version of the Bass Fuss, adding a blender so I can mix in some dry. I read that Phase Inversion *could* cause some problems.
Playing by ear, its sounds great at either all fuzz, or all dry. It *seems* to drop a tad in the middle. Still sounds good, just a little less umph. Then again, I could just be looking for trouble.
How can one tell? Would the inversion be very noticeable to the ear?
I do not have access to an oscilloscope, and I did, I wouldn't have a clue what to do with it.
TIA

Thank you Madbean, that was the problem. I wonder why the little cap worked before?

Just don't know the fix

Consider this Bass Fuss...



I have good strong signal at the collector of Q1. Pass the 120pf cap, not so much, and rotating to pot does nothing to increase the signal on pin2. I swapped both cap and pot.
I have bread boarded this circuit a couple times with these values, so I wouldn't think that's it. I must be on the right track, but keep missing the train.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
TIA

I have bread boarded it, and it sounds fine to me. I just didn't want to waste an etched PCB that was laid out wrong.

Thank you both for your replies.
JoeR, you are correct. The view shown is looking at the solder side.

Please tell me if you have any issues with my layout. TIA

I don't see how it wouldn't work. I currently (pun intended) connect E of Q1 to 330ohm, then to ground. Everything sounds good to me. 

Thank You, great idea. I'll give that a try.

Yet another question:
Seeing I'm stuck in the house for 2 weeks, I'd thought I would try and finish up some boxes. I've breadboarded a classic Fuzz Face using silicon NPN trannys. The schematic calls for a 1KB pot for the fuzz. I have used both a 1KA, and a 1KC, because that is what I have on hand. I don't get fuzz with either one until the knob is around half way up. Although the reverse audio pot is a tad better, it is solder lug, not PCB mount, as I have my PCB designed, but no bigger there. Before I order pots, and have to wait on shipping to finish, will the 1KB have a better response, or should I buy smaller pots, like 500ohm? I still will have to wait, but I already have a truck load of pots that never seem to be what I need. I've tried bigger pots, to no avail, so I guess I understand how they work...all the way off is the highest resistance, decreasing as you turn it up (am I right?).
TIA
BTW, it sounds great! I would just like to spread out the level of fuzz a little

My latest PCB layout.
Schematic:

Tracings:

Component Placement:

Please note that we're looking at the underside, copper side of board, so the components, except for the pot, are "backward"
I used PS to do the layout, as I am very familiar with it. I color coded the nodes, then made all the tracings black. I found the learning curve of PCB design software too steep.
Any corrections, or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Ok then, so 25vdc should be cool

On many of the schematics for effect pedals I find on line, there is no mention of what voltage rating needed for electrolytic caps. how do I determine this? TIA

I'm looking for the schematic for a one knob noise gate with a hard/soft switch. something like the Moor, or Donner or CNZ
TIA

Hello, I'm attempting to combine two different circuits. I play Bass, and found the fuzz I really like, but would like to be able to add some dry into it. Here are the two original schematics, fuzz first, then the blender:





I was told to connect the blender's send to the fuzz's input, and the fuzz's output to the blender's rvc.  And this is what I've come up with:



First, are there any glaring mistakes?
Second, I'm not sure if C2 and C5 will play well together, i.e. are they in series, or does R3 prevent that. If they are in series, does that make their value change? I'm thinking it's mute, due to if they were two different pedals then... I ask because I want to know why I'm right, or wrong.
NOTE: C3 is a very tiny ceramic cap to reduce rcv'ng radio signals.
TIA 

Thanks guys, for all the help