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Messages - Chi_Boy

#106
Requests / Re: Ugly Face
December 13, 2011, 04:54:39 AM
Thanks Juan!
#107
Requests / Re: Ugly Face
December 12, 2011, 05:09:41 AM
Quote from: juansolo on April 13, 2011, 06:38:42 AM
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on April 11, 2011, 10:45:22 PM
Im interested in this one now. Found a vero board layout that doesn't look to crazy! Synth sounds like fun!

The LFO section of the vero that's out there doesn't work correctly. It sorta works, but not like it should. It should sound like these clips: 1, 2 & 3. They're not mine by the way, but they're the ones that made me realise mine wasn't working correctly. I ended up binning that section and doing my own LFO.

Likewise these clips from the homewrecker page give an idea of some of the things the Ugly can do on it's own 1, 2 & 3. It's so much more than a fuzz factory (and to be honest a wolf computer is better than a FF also, though much more like one).

Also there is a mistake on the vol pot and some changes that can be made to give frequency pot more range. I have an unverified vero that I've yet to get around to building based on these changes (I also have a verified working LFO that will bolt to an existing ugly face).

I will be building one shortly anyhow and will have a play with it then.

I'll shuffle them onto my webserver and post them up for you to have a go at.

Done it:

Verified working LFO vero. Though the depth pot is better as a trim pot.

Schematic for the above

Not verified combined vero


Hi Juan,

The links to your layout and schematic appear to be dead.  Would it be a problem to request a refresher on those?

Also, thanks for the heads up on that bum LFO from the other layout.

Cheers,
George
#108
Open Discussion / Re: Copper Clad
April 01, 2011, 02:15:52 AM
Yes, that makes perfect sense.  Keeping it in the middle minimizes the stress at the ends.

I'll try the .031 to see if I warm up to it, but I just bought some .047 to see how that works too.

The laminator is the GBC H220.  Very similar to Brian's, and he pushes the .060.  I should be OK with the .047 then.  I just hope its a little stiffer than the .031.

Thanks again for the info.

George
#109
Open Discussion / Re: Copper Clad
March 31, 2011, 04:23:03 AM
Quote from: Haberdasher on February 03, 2011, 04:29:13 PM
Well, I received the .031" boards.  I think I'll feel quite comfortable working with it.

And yes, this stuff seems like it could be cut with a sturdy pair of scissors as long as they have smooth blades.  The grooves in kitchen shears leave nasty markings on the copper IIRC.  Using straight blade snips is probably the way to go.

Haberdasher;

Have you tried that .031 yet?  I just received a stack from Bill and boy is that stuff thin.  It feels pretty stiff, but it is notably thinner the the boards I have bought in the past.  I was just wondering if it gave you any problems.

Planning to use it with a laminator and it "says" .039 max thickness.  I've read that Brian pushes his [similar] laminator with up to .060 boards.  I just don't want to break it, but still want good boards.

Thanks,
George
#110
Thanks Josh,

That sounds VERY cool.  I'm getting ready to buy my first powder coated boxes from PPP and will try my new DecalProFx system when they get here.  With the polycrylic the finish will be so easy it will be like cheating.  I almost feel guilty!

Thanks again,
George
#111
Quote from: gtr2 on March 17, 2011, 07:22:07 PM

I would always sand a lot and prime them first.  I don't paint enclosures any more though.  I buy them powder coated, decal them, and use the process I listed above.  Unless you are painting your enclosures all the same color the paint and enclosure cost end up more than just buying a powder coated enclosure.  Plus the time involved...

Josh

Josh,

I'm considering trying the Polycrylic you posted about, but I'm concerned about the adhesion to the powdercoat.  Everyone says you need the paint for plastic or you'll get flaking.  Do you do anything special to the base before clearing?  It almost sounds too good to be true, but if it if, it sounds like the ultimate in simplicity.

Thanks,
George
#112
Open Discussion / Re: Barber LTD Varients
March 23, 2011, 02:27:58 PM
It seems there are a lot of possible variations based on the same platform.  With the Tone Pump and Direct Drive being so similar, one could cut, paste and tweak into a dozen or more variations. 

Would be nice to know the tweaks though.  While the are likely to be small changes, they still add up to a slightly different tone.  Doesn't really matter, I suppose.  There are so many things to try.
#113
Open Discussion / Barber LTD Varients
March 23, 2011, 04:39:08 AM
Some time ago there was some chatter about schematics, or part sub lists, for the other LTD variants that were similar to the LTD Silver, like the LTD and LTD SR.  I've been watching and looking, but haven't found any such summery.  Does that sort of list exist?


Thanks,
George
#114
Open Discussion / Re: I forgot my own birthday....
March 23, 2011, 04:29:54 AM
Congratulations on both counts!

The Smallbear banner really establishes you as a member of the DIY Foundation Club.  Without that club here are a lot of of that would never try something like this. 

Now if I could only stop impulse buying of your darn boards!   ;)
#115
Open Discussion / Re: Madbean! I stole your layout!
March 14, 2011, 02:38:29 AM
Thanks Brian.  I added the post to the projects section as requested.  Let me know if you see anything that needs changing.

Cheers,
George
#116
Open Discussion / Madbean! I stole your layout!
March 13, 2011, 10:28:22 PM
Ok, "stole" is a little strong.

I did use the Silverfox layout to do a layout for the Barber Tone Pump that was posted at DIYStompboxes.  They are very similar and it made the Tone Pump very easy to do.

Since it is more your work than mine, do you mind if I post it here or there?  I really just made it for myself, but it does seem a shame to waste a nice layout.  If you want I'll send the Eagle files.  Let me know your thoughts.

Cheers,
George