Messages

Regarding the LT1054, have you ever experience power supply whine?   I know there are notes in the data sheet that show how to add a small cap to increase the operating frequency, but I haven't tried it yet.  Have plans to in the near future though.

i've build for a friend one like 1 year ago using an LT1054 i had back then and didnt had any whine issues, i had in mine when i tested using a max1044 it but it turned out a broken solder in the MAX1044, note that i have build 5 of them for some friends and while using 1spot or battery there wasnt any issues when i try it with a power all and some other el cheapo psu i had whine issues, also some whine can be produced if not using shielded wires to input and output of effect as many have experienced here.

its a 1N4001 connected to ground. I've ordered today some tc1044 and some lt1054 ( leaning towards the second to be more safe), but i was wondering why this thing it gets fried all the time, pcb is ok no shorts or anything and it didnt seems to overheat, at least when i touch it seems cold enough, is it possible to have voltage spices when i disconnect another effect from the daisy chain so high to stress the MAX to its limits? Is it safe to put a diode in line and live the 4001 in place or i have to remove it? also if using a 1n5817 as you suggest would i still have to use the 100R resistor or just the diode? btw i've tried anothe max today and while i had the boneyard off and the wah on i disconected the wah and the thing went boom again...
will check the pcb again just to make sure its ok and post back

its allready has a protection diode but not in line, i will try the resistor right now since i cant find a tc1044
thanks

thanks but because i'm noob how do i wire the resistor? in series with v+? and how much resistance? enough to make sure it doesnt pass 9.5v e.x?
thanks

i was thinking too about the 10v maxx can handle and the spikes in voltage, but i wasn't sure, i mean i've seen my 1spot to 9.8v as well ,but arent those regulated? i mean it should deliver around 9.3 to 9,4 but i've seen in mine a 9,8v and maybe its to close to overheat the maxx and burn it, forgive me if i'm thinking wrong or my questions are noobish, i'm trying to learn as much as i can 
thanks

hey guys i'm running i weird problem on my boneyard V1. The maxx1044 i used for the charge pump gets burned after 4-5 hours of playing i've change 2 of them the last week, i checked the pcb for shorts and its ok, i checked for power to groud continuity and its ok aswell. Is there anything else i should check, is there any logic that the problem is caused the  daisy chain 1spot along with an wah and a second drive i use ( i mean plugging unplugging while the pedal is on cause today it went off after i unplugged my wah while the boneyard was on)? or is the maxx1044 so fragile that catn handle the 9.46v the one spot gives and should i change it to an LT1054 maybe?
thanks

i found my self annoying right now but i will ask again...tried sabertooth with my guitar and sounds great also with my bass with active pups sound great, tried with a friends bass that has an active on board 3 band preamp and its really awful, muddy with no note definition and buzzy...is this normal? i mean  sabertooth doesn't like an active preamp even with the impedance control? note that i used 2n3904 trannies with 190hfe for q1 and 200 for q2 if it makes any difference.
thanks
Harris

oops sorry. i forgot to post that i already solder it  between 3pdt and PCB input ( common sense and how silly of me to ask). Anyway... Sabertooth its freaking awesome and with the impedance control its more versatile now. btw should i omit the 1Mohm input to ground resistor?
anyway thanks again Lace for any help you provide

btw one last question before i wire the impedance wrong , the 100ohm resistor goes to input jack and the wires from pot 2,1 to the 3pdt or 3pdt to 100ohm,pot 2-1> pcb input?
thanks

 hey guys a super noob question...where do i solder the impedance control? between input jack and 3pdt or between 3pdt and pcb input? thanks.

Thats all i need to know i'll get to work asap
thanks again
Harris

one of my concerns was the one u mention, and besides i could change input-output caps on the zombii to make it have more lows my major concern was that my bass has active pups and might not sound good with either of the them. I'm leaning towards saber to be honest but if anyone tried this addition to the pedal
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5291.0
and wants to share his experience would be nice, thanks anyways man
Harris

c1 is the input cap and c4 is the output. original c1 is 10uf ( which will be 100uf as u suggest) and c4 is 10uf as well, should i leave c4 at 10uf or rise it a bit like 47 or more?
btw i was looking at the sabertooth layout and the post you made with the impedance pot  wiring here
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5291.0

do you think its a better idea to build the saber with the impedance matching pot than the zombii? i mean i like the saber but how much will affect its tone that extra pot? and what about the zombii will it work with active pups or will it need the same mod.
thanks i appreciate your help
Harris.

Hey guys. I'm looking to make a Zombii for my bass anyone can point me which caps (C1 and C4?) should i change and what value should i use? If its going to help my bass has active pups.
Thanks
Harris

aah crap.. i need to read more carefully :/. pots with on off switch have additional lugs for wiring the power line.
also you can use a push-pull or push-push pot to break the power line but i guess thats expensive but i wouldnt bother, pulling the patch cable its cheaper and easiest  way .