Messages

Here's the finished pedal



Sounds awesome, although might drop an led anti-pop circuit into in tomorrow.

Thanks
Si

3 resistors and 1 cap change, and we should hopefully be back on track
For those interested, R10, R11, R12 & C10 needed changing.

Cheers guys
Si

Thanks very much guys.
I'll check this thoroughly tomorrow, but yes, 3x resistor differences and possibly some cap differences too.
Will report back

Cheers
Si

I thought I'd sit down tonight and populate a Runt board I've had for a couple of years.
I just finished, but got to the 100k R13 and realised I didn't have an R13!
That's when I realised that the PDF has an LED pad, as well as a totally different layout to my version. I noticed that R11 on the 2014 is the 4k7 LED resistor, which I've obviously soldered in incorrectly now, how many of the other components are different between the old PDF (which I can't find) and the 2014?

Is it a throwaway job?

Cheers
Si

Yes, I've made sure all socketed components are pushed into the sockets and connected. Although I'll go through again and triple-check.
I haven't got a switch setup on my (very) rudimentary test rig, so it's just Ins/Outs to jack sockets.
I'll put another circuit on it to test it's not the 'rig', however it was working on the previous circuit (I know that means nothing )

That test rig PCB looks awesome! Thanks for the headsup!

Si

Thanks guys. Pictures added
I don't have an audio probe, will look into making one

Thanks
Si

Hi guys, late here in the UK so I'm not thinking straight, standard

I'm building a Green Muff from the pedalparts.co.uk PCB/PDF:
http://pedalparts.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/BigMuff.pdf

Component Changes:
R19 - 10k
C1 - 330n
C3 - 330n
C4 - 330n
C7 - 330n
C10 - 22n

I think I have some serious issues as here are my transistor readings:

Power in    8.71v

Q1   
C   4.44
B   0.72
E   0.13

Q2   
C   0
B   0
E   0

Q3   
C   7.67
B   0
E   0

Q4   
C   4.37
B   1.36
E   0.86







Socketed components are currently long-legged...an issue perhaps?


Where to start? I tried putting a different 2n5088 in place of Q2, still no readings.
I very new to debugging/troubleshooting, so any pointers, starting points etc are very welcome

Thanks
Si

Normally yes, but the latest shows 3 +9 on the board already!this guy is out of control!

Do everything to excess?!

Thanks guys, I've ordered some protos from Osh Park so will see how we get on
As always, thanks for all the help so far!

Si

Latest:



No 9v plane, moved the 9v pads to make routing easier.
Re-arranged PI/G/PO

Feeling like it's getting there?!

Cheers all
Si

Hi guys,

Cheers for all the advice so far.
I did think I had the Jack Ins the right way round, but am still in that "oh have I done something done" stage when someone questions me on it haha.
I completely agree about having a clean run to the board, so will get a GND in between PCB In/Out.

Certainly not that I didn't believe you guys about having a 9v plane as well as a gnd, but being a cusrious soul, I asked a few more opinions and it seems to be fairly unanimous, so will redesign with no 9v plane.  Any tips on this? Or simply about being clever with your track laying between components that require power?

Cheers
Si

So currently this is as if you had opened the enclosure and were looking down into the pedal.
As such, the ins & outs are on the correct sides?!

Thanks
Si

The diamter of the holes are:

Diameter: 0.12598425
Drill: 0.1023622

It's just the standard 3PDT part from the MB library.

Here's the latest incarnation:



I haven't tried routing it without the +9v plane yet
I messed about with the 2.54m spacing for headers etc, but I didn't like the look of it and it was starting to look a tiny bit messy.  Will experiment further.

Any further comments more than welcome, learning plenty here

Thanks guys
Si

Hi guys,

Thanks so much for the input.
You're correct in that the extra resistor and cap on the board is the AMZ pop circuit, I genuinely find it helps my builds, i'm pretty bored cutting the vero each time I build something and that can look messy (see m 'Builds' thread).
I'm interested in what you're saying about not using a 9v plane and a gnd plane.  When I first started looking into Eagle, I (very naively) understood that you needed to assign a use to the plane in order to lay tracks on both sides......now I think about it, that's probably not the case?! You can simply have a layer that isn't performing a function other than having tracks on it?!

Also, yes, fully understand that the cap will need to be mounted on the underside due to cleareance, although you mention changing posistion? Could you explain what you mean? I'm not fussed about where the silk lies although easy enough to move it to the back.

Here's the latest incarnation, still some changes to make, but only got five minutes earlier.



Thanks guys
Si

Looks good to me. The top pads are just about under the switch. You could scoot them out a bit - maybe space them so a header could be used ...

Didn't think of using headers! What would be the benefit of them? I use solid-core cable, so perhaps even a row of sockets?
Any idea as to pad spacing?

I'll be moving the pads out from the switch and the LED a little further right today at lunch.

Thanks guys
Si

*Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, please move as you think is best**

Hi guys,

Sorry, could I trouble you to take a quick look over the 3PDT daughter board I've put together for my builds?
It's real late here, and whilst I'll take another look tomorrow, might as well let some USA pedal dudes take a look while I'm sleeping

Cheers





All input is helpful
Thanks very much

Si