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OK..  So i've been geekin my brains out and learning (and Relearning) a LOT about circuits.

Last night, I successfully fixed an ADA MP-1 that somebody screwed up trying to mod by reading the schamatic and figuring out where he/she replaced the wrong resistors and caps!!  (uuugh.. that thing sounds good now!!)

ANYWAY... right now, I'm building a honey dripper and would like to do the Asymmetrical clipping mod as jimmi photon suggests..

BUT... being that i liek a bunch of switches and other garbage on my pedals.. I was thinking of adding a switch to select from the stock symmetrical 1n914s to the modified 1n34a and 1n914.. 

HOWEVER..   i've been doing the research on the Asymmetrical Vs Symmetrical thing....

Sooooo   in the below piece of the schematic for the honeydripper... I'm assuming that d1 and d2 are the clipping diodes..  correct??

Most of the blubs ive been reading through use 1 diode on one side and two diodes on the other side for the asymmetric clipping,, 

BUT... Am i correct that by having diodes of different types on the positive and negative clipping sides that this is also asymmetrical clipping?? (as jimmy refers to using a 1n34a and 1n914.. 

so, to get assymetrical clipping you could use a 1n34a as d1 and a diffused red LED as D2 or, you could use 1 1n34a as d1 and two 1n34a in series as d2, OR use a 1n34a as d1 and a BAT41 as d2?

I've built the "Chunk Chunk" and the "Pork Barrel", both of which I am using, but this is the first pedal I added graphics to and completely "finished".

Its a slow loris RAT madbean board and I built it exactly as spec'd, and i'm VERY happy with it, so I'm not going to mod it any further so I added graphics and finished the box!!!

Since its a RAT... i decided to use the graphics from the old movie "Ben" as I remembered that the poster was pretty creepy!   Like a few other guys, I also decided to show off the LED's.  In Ben's case, I drilled a 1/16th hole through his eyes, and then used a bullet grinder on a dremel to create a socket for the LEDs to sit in behind.  It turned out really cool.  The LEDS sit flush with the graphic and when they are off, it looks like they are just red eyes.

I also use Pushback wiring on my builds as its what i use to wire guitars in the shop, and, i like it!!

I'm very happy with it!  like it better than the original RAT I had back in the 80's actually!!  (but.. my judgment might have been impaired back then!!)

I will say however, that next time, i will use the paper supplied with the transfers rather than a t-shirt when heat setting the graphic...   the T-shirt left a cloth like pattern on the graphic that took FOREVER to lacquer over!

Anyway, here it is!!

OK.. so i've searched through the archives and found a couple references to speeding up the rate by changing C-19 or C-20 and I'm a bit confused as to which, exactly controls the rate as there is also reference to a Tonepad project which, i can't find a schematic for..


Anyway.. I want to LOWER my overall rate as i never have the pedal on more than about 2 with the current setup.  

Sooo... In the diagram below, (which is to the board i built off of), which of the capacitors is the "charge Sink" that controls the rate??

trying to understand the circuits rather than just build them.

My hunch is that its C19 because that is between pin 2 of the opamp and the rate pot and drains to ground

Ok....  Got my pork barrel done.....

I freaking LOVE it!!!

Question...

Clean...  Its an awesome chorus.   

Distorted....  Love it too....  BUT....  Its not what i expected..

It has a kinda....  Flanger type sound when you run a distortion in front of it....

Now...   I did the LFO LED mod and its working....  Does that have something to do with it??

Or is it that im running it post distortion?

Dont get me wrong...  I like it....  Its just different than the chorus om used too out oc my tce gmajor after my mp1

Hey..  I've been lurkin around a bit, finally got my Chunk CHunk built, it works, and sounds GREAT..


All for nodes set to 4.5V, all controls work..  pot is the 1M Audio taper as on the build sheet.

but the Gain, while great, is pretty much unuseable past 12:00 on the knob...  you only get a very little bit of "break up" distortion just after "0" on the gain knob, and then its right into "tear your face off,, and then melt your face off"

not that this is a bad thing mind you...... but, a little more versatility might be warranted,

I guess the question is..

its is supposed to be like that with the J201's...

would a different value gain pot change things?



I've got a second board all but built, but I'm thinkin about trying the 2N5457's in it instead