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[when the dwell is at zero and the echo is at max it there is no clean repeat]

Last summer I built a Cave Dweller and let a friend who plays in a one man band borrow it for a while. During one of his shows some water or beer was spilled in his gear. The Cave Dweller stopped working.

The problem is when the dwell is at zero and the echo is at max it there is no clean repeat like there should be. The filtered repeats are being sent back to the input and oscillating when dwell is turned up. I checked the voltages on the PT2399, nothing looked out of the ordinary.

1. 4.93 V
2. 2.46 V
3. 0 V
4. 0 V
5. 2.81 V
6. 2.46 V
7. 0.71 V
8. 0.73 V
9-16. 2.46 V

The voltage regulator looks fine too...
1. 4.95 V
2. 0 V
3. 9.33 V

I'll play around with my audio probe some more tomorrow, so far I have audio coming into the PT2399 on pin 9 and coming out on 12,14, and 15.

I am building a few pork barrels. Someone requested that I make one suited for bass. There are a few things I want to try with these boards.

1. The LFO mod, I like the greater depth but with the LFO indicator I've found that the sound is a bit choppy...I'm not sure how to describe it but it's not as smooth as without the LFO indicator. So I just omitted R39 and I have the depth without the choppiness. I also tried putting a 22k resistor in R39...similar effect to omitting the resistor. Any recommendations for getting a deeper, smooth chorus...omitting R39, replacing it with a larger resistor value?

2. I took a look at the tone pad mods. I want to do the wet bass mod but I don't want to add a switch. I want it to be wet all the time the pedal is engaged. The mod shows two capacitors in parallel. With a switch in series with one of the capacitors. I thought I could just add the value of the capacitors and the sum would be the value capacitor I want...but that would give me a .033 uF capacitor which is what the tonepad build guide calls for...so that can't be right. Anyone know how to hardwire the tonepad wet bass mod without the switch?

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=101

I am building a few pork barrels. Someone requested that I make one suited for bass. There are a few things I want to try with these boards.

1. The LFO mod, I like the greater depth but with the LFO indicator I've found that the sound is a bit choppy...I'm not sure how to describe it but it's not as smooth as without the LFO indicator. So I just omitted R39 and I have the depth without the choppiness. I also tried putting a 22k resistor in R39...similar effect to omitting the resistor. Any recommendations for getting a deeper, smooth chorus...omitting R39, replacing it with a larger resistor value?

2. I took a look at the tone pad mods. I want to do the wet bass mod but I don't want to add a switch. I want it to be wet all the time the pedal is engaged. The mod shows two capacitors in parallel. With a switch in series with one of the capacitors. I thought I could just add the value of the capacitors and the sum would be the value capacitor I want...but that would give me a .033 uF capacitor which is what the tonepad build guide calls for...so that can't be right. Anyone know how to hardwire the tonepad wet bass mod without the switch?

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=101

There is something wrong with the feedback on my Zero Point SDX. The ghost switch, the slam switch, and the feedback pot do not work.

I have checked my wiring, parts, and soldering numerous times. I have measured the voltages of the pins of IC1 (TL072) and IC2, IC3 (PT2399) with nothing unusual. I traced the signal with an audio probe and found that there was only one repeat in pin 7 (output) of IC1. I replaced the TL072 and still have only one repeat in pin 7 (output) of IC1.