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Hey all,
I'm trying to add a Soft-Clipping mod in my Refractor Klone, but don't know how to wire it on to the PCB. Could you help me figure this out?

I've attached a photo of the PCB and what I think is the relevant part of the schematic. For reference, here's the post that shows the soft clipping mod:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/05/klon-centaur-with-optional-bass-control.html

This is my first Orange Compressor build. The PCB is modelled after the Henretta version, which is made to fit an LB case... hense the footswitch jumpers. I'm also digging the LED lenses as an aesthetic touch. I used an old General Guitar Gadgets enclosure I had lying around. Not a fan of the hardware spacing, but it'll do.

This is my 5th swirl and I more or less follow the dragonfly swirl method with some adaptations:
1. Prime Coat before.
2. Play around with different acrylic / water viscosities. Too thick and it'll dry like a blob, too thin and it'll look like it's eroded (which does look cool in a way)
3. GENTLY wet sand after 24 hrs, just to even things out.
4. 1-3 decent coats of clear to bring enhance shine and create an illusion of depth.
5. Finish with envirotex. The last step actually brings out the best in the swirl, makes it incredibly durable, and gives an smooth glassy finish on top.
* The baseline acrylic layer doesn't dry super fast so if you aren't happy don't be afraid to run it over some water an wipe the paint to and start again.

I need time to see if this beats out my guitarpcb Ross clone, for now I think the Ross edges it out in terms of flexibility.

These mini-builds are getting addicting! This is  second pedal of my mini-pedalboard project.  The  Fatpants (Echoplex Pre) Booster runs at 18V and it gives a nice authoritative boost. The added fat switch gives a nice extra bit of girth and at stock it's a good flat boost. If you want a good clean but meaty booster this'll do you right

I went with a textured matte black enclosure with an aluminum nod as a slight tip of the hat to an actual EP-1 unit.

The iRig interface and a makeshift breadboard circuit tester have been invaluable while away from my actual work bench.

 This one's a long time coming. I'm working on a micro pedalboard and finished this one up. I wanted to go the micro build route rather than a combo build to allow for routing flexibility. The plan is a fuzz (with buffer), OD, Rat, and Delay.

I followed Madbean's "Baby Board" guide, which was helpful since it mounts the LED post on the top left corner of the 3pdt. Also, compact jacks were a must, as was a mini dc jack. Anything larger would have me drilling holes far too large to allow for pcb clearance. I'm traveling so I had to make due with only black hookup wire, that proved to be a chore whilst troubleshooting in such a small space!

Wow,
I really dig this thing! Over the past few months I've finished this a Germanium Fuzz Face and a Mayo Muff and was auditioning each to see  which one I'd put into a 3 in 1 build. Overall I prefered the Lunar Module as it has the most usable range for my purposes. Anyhow a former student, and current alumni, asked me to build him a fuzz so I guess I'll have to build myself another at some point!
Excuse the long leads they were to accomodate the extra distance required in the above mentioned 3 in 1 build. BTW this is the same enclosure from the marbling tutorial I put up a while back.

Hey all,

Building a PNP Fuzz Face with a charge pump to allow for daisy chaining. When I test voltage on the designated pad (between C8 and the Collector of Q2) the voltage reads as Negative on my DMM. Is that normal?

Also, I barely reach unity gain when the voltage is in the recommended range of 4.6 - 4.8. What could I do to raise the amount of available voltage?

Thanks!

Hey fellas,
First time posting on this forum. I dabbled in building for a few years and took a break for grad work, now that's finished so I can resume

I have the discontinued Mysterioso Sr. and can't figure out how to wire in the Power Supply jack.

According to the wiring diagram the center lugs of  SW1 and SW2 connects to 9V and GND of the board respectively. Does this mean I'll also wire the 9V and GND from the Power Jack to center lugs of the switches as well? I can't seem to find a space on the board for the power jack to be wired to.


Also, it looks like there's a discrepancy with S1C3 and SWC1. If you follow the diagram what is noted as SW1C1 on the switch seems to connect to what is labelled as S1C3 on the CB. Should I stick with the diagram or the code?

Thanks!!