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I've been looking for the library for the fairchild H11F1.  Does anyone know where I can find it?

Not sure if this is the right place for this post, but here goes...

I keep seeing these cool enclosures using black copper clad fr4. Where do you get this stuff? Can you get other colors?

So I'm trying some new options for enclosure finishing, specially etching. There are a lot of walk throughs and info about etching, but nothing on "reverse" etching. What I'm trying to do is etch the surface so that the image is raised, paint the surface, and then sand it down until the image is visible again. Does anyone know of a tutorial on this or any tips?

So I'm building a Lowrider and it calls for a 1n34a diode.  I ran out and I'm having trouble getting this part.  I was thinking about subbing the 1n270, but I don't know if it will work.  This is a complicated circuit that's really over my head so I'm not sure what that diode does or what I could use as a substitute for it.  Any suggestions?

OK... I'm stumped.  I just finished a deadringer II build and I'm debugging it.  I've traced the signal to the input of the first stage of the opamp (pin 3).  Now all of my signal tracing/voltage readings are from legs of the IC, not through the socket or the solder on the bottom of the board.  I get signal on the input (pin 3) but not the output (pin 1) nor the inverted input (pin 2).  The other opamp (pins 5,6,and 7) have nothing either.  If I measure the voltage between pin 8 (Vcc+) and ground, I get 9v.  If I measure the voltage between pin 8 (Vcc+) and pin 4 (Vcc) I get 8.5-9v.  So, I traded out the JRC4558 IC with another from the same batch.  Same readings.  I traded the IC out with a TL072, same readings.  I even tried a 1458, with the same readings.  What am I missing here?

So this is one of the first builds I actually finished.  I have a few on the scrap pile, unfortunately...  I built this pretty much stock including the diodes.  I used the suggested red LEDs and the 1N914's.  I really enjoyed building this, and I'm sure I'll be building more...

I'm about to start this build, and it looks like it's gonna be a tight fit. On tayda they now have a 2t4p rotary switch, but it looks huge. Has anybody tried this switch? Does it fit?

So my soldering pretty much sucks. After watching some YouTube videos, I'm wondering if part of the problem is my equipment. I'm using a walmart $10 soldering iron, and 60/40 solder from Walmart. My question is, what kind of solder (brand, size, makeup, ect) are some of you veterans using and what kind of soldering iron/station? Should I invest in a variable voltage or variable temperature soldering station? Which one?

So, I've been working on a pedal with an etched board. Because it is hand etched, there are no solder lugs in it. As I was soldering the parts in, I overheated the board in a few places and the copper has come up from the fiberglass. I've even completely lost some of the pads. I've been able to use "solder bridges" and jumpers to make all the connections, but nothing anchors to the actual board. Some of these are at pot connections, so every time I dry fit the board into the enclosure, connections break. Anybody know of a fix for this?

I'm not trying to be impatient or anything, but is there any news on when they're gonna get more Sunking's in? The project page says June, but I haven't seen anything yet. Sorry, I'm just really interested in sinking my teeth into one of these!!!