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Anyone have experience with one of these?

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WSU180-1000-Rvirtualkey55310000virtualkey553-WSU180-1000-R

Seems like a decent deal.  Anything to be wary of?

Howdy,

I've built the 2015 Karate Shop to spec and have been having some fun trying it out in my testing rig.  Great pedal!!

However, I'm finding that I'm wishing the frequency range was voiced higher.  The majority of the sweep of the Freq knob seems pretty bass-y to me until right towards the end.  Wondering if anyone's experimented with either a higher value pot, a higher value in R11, or possibly a nominal increase in R11 and a linear pot? 

Any thoughts?

Tony

Hey all, bit of a noob question here.

We moved into a new place in Aug and I set up my pedal workshop in the garage, which already had a nice little bench/pegboard area.  We're in Canada and temperatures have now begun to be below 0C/32F overnight. 

I guess I'm wondering a couple of things:

1:   Is there any harm in storing components (ICs, diodes, pots, etc) in the garage over the winter?

2:  At what point does a colder environment create potential issues with soldering?

I'd love to hear some thoughts.

Hey guys,

I've been looking over the datasheet for the TI LM324 series and am struggling to figure out the differences between the various suffixes. 

My source (Digikey) has LM324AN as the least expensive, and I'm trying to figure out if I can go with that for instances where the suffix isn't specified.  (i.e. Current Lover)


EDIT:  Also trying to understand LM311P vs LM311N...   sigh.   

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.  Cheers!

Hi folks, thought I'd share something I just discovered.

I wanted to verify the values of some Tayda ceramic caps (10pF - 100pF range)  but my multimeter is not very accurate in that range.  47pFs were measuring at about 20p.  1nF and higher it has no problem and is accurate.

I thought about ordering a dedicated Capacitance Meter, but then I discovered a little trick.

I got accurate results for those small values by testing them in parallel with a box cap around 1nF. 

Easiest for my setup is to use a breadboard with a 1nF cap across the multimeter leads, and then hit the "relative" button to zero it out.  I can then plug & unplug my little ceramics into the breadboard to my heart's content, and am getting accurate measurements.  Try it!

I just wanted to share this because I did not find any such suggestion in my online searching, only references to the unreliability of most multimeters in this low range.  The DIY solutions I did find were quite complex.  Cheers!

I haven't been this stunned by a new pedal in quite a while.  I'll never be able to afford it at 490euros though.

Here's their site where controls are explained:

https://glou-glou.org/rdv-how-to/


I'd love to be able to build something like this!

Hey guys,

I'm having a little trouble with a Green Bean build.  This is only my 4th build ever, and the first time I've run into a problem that I haven't been able to solve through closer inspection & internet searching.

Issue:  no sound at output. 

I've built an audio probe and have been following the schematic.  Everything seems fine until the part I've outlined in red:


Pin 2&3 of the 4558 have audio loud & clear.
Pin 1 has very faint audio.

C3 has good signal on one side, faint on the other.

I've measured my drive pot and it's functioning correctly, but again, lug 2&3 good audio, lug 1 very faint.

Faint/no audio following that section.

I did notice that it appears I have audio on pin4 of the IC...  I'm a noob, but I was not expecting that.

I quickly checked voltages on the IC, and all pins were around 8.6.  I could make a more precise list if that would be helpful.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.