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I am building a Green Bean for a friend of mine. He swears by his vintage TS9 so I want to make this a "better" TS9. So I want to make some modifications. I have some thoughts and some questions on how to accomplish this.

1) Replace R15 with 470 ohm resistor
2) Replace R16 with with 100K resistor
3) Omit AS/SYM switch and extra diodes. Which pads on the switch do I jumper - the two round pads or the middle round pad and the square pad? Which diodes do I omit?
4) Omit FAT switch and extra capacitor. Which pads on the switch do I jumper - the two round pads or the middle round pad and the square pad? I can omit C5 correct?

Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
BuzzKing

Just ordered the Green Bean board. Starting to source and order components. I am having trouble finding a 120n MBF capacitor. Any thoughts on where to order or alternative capacitor?

Thanks,
BuzzKing

I am having trouble locally sourcing the 3 K ohm resistor (R48) on my Stage Fright build. I do not need to make any orders for other parts right now and really don't want to order a 5 cent part. Can I use a 2.7 K ohm or a 3.3 K ohm resistor instead? I have plenty of those on hand. If so which would be best to use.

Rick "BuzzKing" Kienle

I just finished populating a Pork Barrel PCB. This is the latest version built from a purchased PCB.

I have not boxed it yet. The test is done with a test rig.

Everything seems to work fine except the output with the effect engaged is roughly 50% quieter than when the effect is bypassed at the test rig. Both pots seem to do what they are supposed to and the effect actually sounds quite good, just much quieter compared to when bypassed. I am testing other boards at the same time so I know its not the test rig.

I built this board with the following modifications:
1) Added Monte Allums mods: C1 = 0.1 uF film cap; C8, C13, C17 = 0.047 uF boxed film caps; C2, C7, C12 = 1 uF tantalum caps; IC1 = OPA2134PA
2) I have socketed R9, R39, C18, C17, and R27 so that I can eventually test tonepad mods and the LFO indicator / depth mod. Currently the stock values are in place. No mods have been tried at this point.
3) I have omitted D4 as I am using the M3101/M3007 chips. Does this need a jumper? Or just omitted?
4) I have omitted R1 and will only add it if needed after boxed. Once again does this need a jumper? Or just omitted?

I have checked and do not visually see any solder bridges or cold solders. I have checked and double checked the values of the components. I have tested voltages (see pic below). I have tried 2 different sets of ICs with similar results and voltages.





I don't know what to expect for the voltages. There are some wonky readings on TL063 3,5,7. The voltage on  pin 8 of the M3101 seems low but again I don't actually know what is correct for this build. It is also interesting that at ground points there is a small voltage ~1.1 - 1.3 mV. Does this indicate an issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rick "BuzzKing" Kienle