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Looking into doing the external preset mod on my Nova delay. There's a bit of info floating around the internet about it, but I just thought I'd see if anyone around here has opened their Nova up to increase the functionality.

I think I'm going to use a two switch external box connected to the preset and manual buttons, like this guy does: http://groove-electronics.blogspot.com/2010/03/tc-electronic-nova-delay-external.html

I finished up my first stripboard project. 808 with clipping switch. I used the layout over on tagboard.

Fired right up the first go around

Every time I complete a new build, I feel grateful for this forum and all of the very kind people who've helped me so far. Thanks!

I have a box full of hundreds of old HAMM radio knobs and stuff from my grandpa. I'd like to use them on pedal builds but some of them won't fit on standard Alpha 16mm pot shafts.

Google isn't helping much. Are there places where I can find standard value pots with a smaller shaft these knobs might fit on?

Thanks!

As I spoke of in a previous thread, I've decided to build a pedal using only parts that my (recently deceased) grandpa gave me. He left me a ton of resistors of all values, lots of different diodes, some different ICs, and various film caps.

I don't know the values of some of the caps, so I'm wondering if there's an overdrive circuit you'd recommend that handles a lot of experimentation with cap values and subbing out ICs. I'm looking for something I can build on stripboard, and socket caps and ICs until I find something that works for me.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

-David

My wife's grandpa recently passed away. He did tech work on radios during World War II, he designed the computers that run the public waterworks system in Des Moines, IA, was a huge amateur radio enthusiast, built his own color television back when no one had one, and was on the cutting edge of technology his entire life. He could fix or build pretty much anything.

Before I married into the family he had no one other than his old HAM radio buddies to talk to about his passion.

When he passed away his daughters asked me if I would like to look around in his workroom and take whatever I'd like. Grandpa Bob built his house himself in the 30's and lived there his entire life. 3 out of 4 rooms in his basement were his "workroom."

So today I went over and poked around for 3 or 4 hours.

I'm hoping that I can take some of what he had collected over the years and put it to good use.

This is what I found:

http://imgur.com/a/np769

http://tv.yahoo.com/video/david-letterman-gary-clark-jr-222946995-cbs.html

I really like the fuzz tone Gary Clark Jr. has in this live video. I'd like to find out what kind of circuit it is!

Thoughts?

I made a thread about this a couple days ago in "General Questions." I put together a Haberdasher Yellow Shark PCB.

The effect sounds great, but I'm not getting unity volume even with the volume pot dimed. I can't figure out why. Here's what I've done to try to resolve the problem:

Rewired and resoldered everything off-board. Double and triple checked component values, placement, and orientation.

I took some DC measurements:

IC
1= 0.09   5= 0.09
2= 4.51   6= 4.51
3= 3.25   7= 9.02
4= 0.00   8= 4.78

Q1 (2N5457)

G= 0.00
S= 0.18
D= 8.51

Here's a few pictures. I don't know how helpful they'll be because they're pretty blurry, but it's the best I can do with what I have right now.

http://i.imgur.com/muv20WI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZIRgM5H.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MSZLLsK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1LVyiwd.jpg

So the only question I have for you all, that I could see as a problem is this:

When I tested all the resistors before I populated the PCB, they all checked out fine except for the 1M resistors that are R1 and R10. Of the 10 1M resistors that Tayda sent me the highest any of them would read with my multimeter was around 600k. Since everything else was fine I figured I'd just wire it up anyway and fix it later if it was a problem.

I had to do another order from Tayda the next week so I went ahead and ordered another strip of 1M resistors. Those all measure around 500 to 600k as well. Am I measuring them wrong, or are these all defective resistors that I need to replace?

The other problem, since I redid all my wiring the LED indicator is staying on all the time regardless of whether the effect is on or off. I've checked to make sure nothing is touching that isn't supposed to, it's wired exactly like it was the first time as far as I can tell, yet it is always on now. I even reversed the LED to make sure I didn't have the + and - backwards and that wasn't it.

Thank you all for any feedback and help you can give me. I'll try to answer any questions as best I can.

I'm really hoping the problem isn't some defective capacitor that I'll have to dig around for..


-David

I just finished boxing up a Yellow Shark (Honey Bee) on a Haberdasher etched PCB. The pedal sounds beautiful, nice and smooth. But, even with the volume and gain knobs dimed I'm still not able to quite reach unity volume with my clean signal.

I figure I've probably got something not quite right. Where would be the first place to check? I did measure all the pieces I could before I assembled the PCB, everything checked out fine. I checked all my off board wiring and that all looks okay too.

Is this just part of the circuit, and if so, what could I change to add a few decibels to this guy?

Just finished a "yellow shark" on a Haberdasher pcb (Thanks, Haber-er!) and I've been thinking about what I want to try next.

I have this empty case laying around the house leftover from a Christmas gift:




It's about 3 by 2.25 in. and around an inch tall.

So I thought I might try putting a simple project on perfboard in there.

Any suggestions on something pretty simple that would fit? I've never had a fuzz pedal so I'm thinking about going that direction, although I'm open to other ideas too.

a pre-drilled 125B that is powder-coated and has the IN, OUT, 9v jacks on the back of the enclosure instead of on the sides?

Basically like this but powder-coated.

Or like this but with the jacks on the back instead of the side?

I've checked all the usual suspects and I am just not finding any. The PPP box is just what I'm looking for as far as color options, convenience, etc. I just want a box that will line up right alongside a BYOC kit I have on my board now that is 125B with the jacks on the back.

I suppose I could invest in some drill bits and just do it myself... I'm just still new at all this so I'm trying to take it a few steps at a time.

Hello all,

I've been doing research over the last week or two on putting together a "Yellow Shark" from the Haberdasher PCB. I've built a few BYOC kits but never done anything more complex or involved than that.

I've been searching around trying to find all the pieces I will need and here comes the first stupid question:

I'm looking at the parts list here and I can't for the life of me figure out what C1 is. I'm a noob. What does a "47n" cap mean?

I'm looking to order the majority of pieces from small bear so if someone could lend a helping hand, I'd greatly appreciate it.