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Anyone know the best way to blend two circuits? Someone I know is looking for something similar to a JHS Banana Boost, which is pretty much a Rangemaster/Treble boost and a MOSFET Boost with a volume knob and a knob that blends the two circuits. So when its all the way to one side, you get all Rangemaster, all the way to the other side is all MOSFET, and in the middle is a blend of the two.

I'm thinking of just doing the two separate circuits in one box, but just need help figuring out how to wire that blend pot up within a circuit.

Still trying to dial this one in just right. I like it though. I think this might be the cleanest wiring job I've done in a long time. Color is the Columbia Coatings Dormant Granny Smith. I wasn't sure I would like this color, but man is it purty.

Box before population:



Box after population:



Guts:



Sorry for the Instagram picture, but it's the only one I have with the yellow LED on:



I'm absolutely loving the external nut DC jacks and the plastic Neutrik 1/4" jacks. I got switched jacks, and wired the wrong Tip on the input... plugged my cable in and the LED went off... easy fix though. Need to buy some metal nuts for them though.

The Japanese (i hope that's right, maybe it's Chinese) lettering is supposed to say "Serenity" or something close to that... at least that's what the internet tells me. The internet never lies, right

Ian

...to crack open their Slambox and let me know what the voltages on the BS170 should be?

Thanks in advance for answering such a lame question

Built another one of these for the heck of it. This was my 2nd powder coating attempt and I like how it came out. It's Columbia Coatings Dormant Sparkle Copper.

Outside:


Inside:

Hey everyone.

I've noticed a couple of builds that have the LEDs in place by themselves without being placed into a bezel. I was just wondering, when you do that, how do you secure it in place?

This topic has been moved to Tech Help.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3693.0

Hey beaners,

Here is a build I did for a bass player here in Nashville, whose last name is de Souza (hence the name of the pedal). This one was a challenge, from the getting the tight traces to etch correctly, to fitting it all into the enclosure, to the 25+ wires that have to be hooked up.... words cannot describe how happy I was that it worked on the first try, because I got a little cocky and decided to not rock it before I boxed it because of all the wiring. Also, all three knobs are those purple Davies', I just had to order an extra and forgot to take a picture with all three knobs before it went in the mail. I guess this is as close to spaghetti wiring as I've ever gotten, but the build doc says to leave extra length on the wires so you can actually get the PCB out should it need to be repaired. Here is the pron.

This is a spin off of something I just said in another thread, that I thought might be a cool topic. What made you start to build? Was it curiosity? Necessity (no money to buy boutique pedals)? Or something else?

For me it was a mixture of the first two. Here's my story, copied from the other thread. I can't wait to read some of yours.

"The Woolly Mammoth is the pedal that started this whole thing for me. I really wanted one for my bass, but definitely couldn't swing the $359 price tag. So out of curiosity, I searched to see what was on the inside that made it cost so much. Then I stumbled upon the FSB thread on it, and was shocked that I could build my own for like $30. I dove in head first and etched a board based on Brian's layout, and never turned back. The rest is history. "

Ian

Ok,

I need help from all of those much, much, smarter than me. I've read every thread I could find on this topic and I still don't think I get it! Feeling pretty dumb right now.

Basically, I want to incorporate something like Beavis' switcher or R.G.'s Juggler, but rather than it being it's own box, I want to just put it in a two-in-one box. Make sense?

The only diagram that I've found that says that it works in a circuit is this one.

I just don't get how this works with the footswitches and everything.

Someone has asked me to build them a Maestro Brassmaster. Rather than toggle switches, the idea was thrown out there to use footswitches instead. I love this vector pack that was posted and I've been having a lot of fun with it. Is this too ambitious? Probably would use a 125BB to give me a lot more breathing room, and obviously, not all three switches would be 3PDTs. Just need some opinions.

Alrighty,

Finally got around to building a Sunking. I haven't messed around too much with swapping the diodes out. Right now I've got the 1n270s in there. Those two diodes are socketed as well as the cap at the tone pot. I'll mess around later. I think this thing sound pretty good with the stock BOM. Anywho, here are the pics. Graphics are etched. Probably some of my cleanest guts, but still trying to improve that.

Hey all,

If any of you live in the Nashville area, I'm playing bass for a guy named David Curtis this Thursday (Oct. 22) at The Rutledge in Nashville.

For those of you the are familiar with Tooth & Nail Records, or Christian music, David is the lead singer of Run Kid Run. But trust me, his solo stuff is the polar opposte of RKR.

The Rutledge's website has this billed as a RKR show, not sure if they are playing as well or what, according to their site they don't have any dates up, but we will see. Anyway, show starts at 7:30pm, and according to the site it's a $7 show (not sure about that either, haha)

Anyway, the only reason I'm posting this is because I'm all about putting names to faces and would love to meet any of you all on this forum. I'll be the guy playing bass.

Ian

They got them now

clickity click

Well, attempted to etch my first enclosure, and it wasn't a total failure, but learn from my mistake...

Do NOT use acrylic paint to touch up your transfer. I thought I was using enamel, however, I was not. And when I went and checked my enclosure, I lifted it up and all of the paint fell right off. Oh well. Live and learn. Will definitely give it another try when I have the correct paint. I'm just glad this Qvibe is a build for me and not a friend....

Always read your labels

From smallbear.... wondering if it works well with the upcoming DirtBag release...

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=247

Hey all,

I rebuilt/rehoused my Grapevine build. This was another McDermott Bros. build I did all the building, but all credit for the artwork goes to my brother, Joe. I just slapped the decal on the box. Love this circuit.

And the guts. Nothing special there.

WOOHOO!

So, I just wanted to throw this out there for everyone who uses spray paint for their enclosures. I always just used Rustoleum everything... but recently I started trying out the Valspar Spray Paint that is sold at Lowe's and I have to tell you, I've been getting 100% better results than I have ever gotten with the other. No runs, goes on perfect in two coats, dries fast, great finish, etc., and at Lowe's it is $0.20 cheaper than the Rustoleum. I do still use Rustoleum's Auto Primer as a base, but man, I'm just loving this Valspar right now.

Anyway, just wanted to share, and this is the only place I feel like I can get excited about spray paint and not be laughed at

Ian

Hey everyone,

Quick question. I haven't built many pedals using toggle switches. Do you get rid of the pop the same as you do with a footswitch? My toggle switch in my Quadrovibe build has a WICKED loud pop when you switch from Vibe to Tremolo. I mean, ear piercing.

Where are you guys getting them from, since Small Bear is seemingly always out of the 16mm ones? Or are you just using the 24mm ones he sells? Trying to source my Quadrovibe build, having a little trouble. Or... I'm willing to offer up my etching skills or other items in a trade if someone has one they can part with. If that's the case, PM me as to not pollute a "General Questions" thread with trade negotiations