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I am currently building a break out board to help me try different components before committing to solder , sorta my own take on the Bevis board. To test the board itself before adding a circuit, I tested it by jumping the circuit in and circuit out, as I read somewhere on line, to simulate a perfectly working circuit. In by-pass the sound is clear as a bell. When I turn on the board I get a buzz. I can hear the guitar over this buzz, whether there is power to the board or not. I am quite the newb so I don't know who would be the usual suspects in this case.  I feel I can rule out the jacks, as I get a nice signal in by-pass. Maybe my wiring/soldering to the dc jack, because it acts like it doesn't care if there is power or not. Then again, maybe the 3PDT switch/board. Or maybe because the wires leading out the the box to the terminal strip are much longer than the jumper on the switch for bypass. I have twisted the heck out the those long wires. I don't know where to start looking.
TIA

I don't rightly know how to phrase the question for google, or a search. When you guys etch a pcb, do you etch the holes for the components in the pads, or leave the pads solid so there is copper all the way to the holes? TIA

This will be my second build.
I know what I want to build, but...What I want is to be able to practice my Bass with my pedals and an aux (i.e. mp3 player, laptop, etc.) using headphones as not to disturb the Mrs. And to try to best re-create the sound I would have if I played though my regular amp, I want to also be able to use the stand alone tube pre-amp I built (note: the pre-amp alone will not drive headphones):

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=28666.0

I also would like to be able to use a standard pedal 9v wall wart to power the headphone amp.
I found a schematic that is all SS with an aux on The Project Asylum:

https://www.theprojectasylum.com

I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post it here. It's under Electronic Projects/ Musical Instrument Related /
Now, I can read schematics just enough to make myself dangerous. What I want to do is be able to plug my Bass/pre-amp/pedals into an input that wont need any pre-amping, mix it with the aux, then amp it enough for headphones. I think all I need to do is remove the instrument pre-amp portion of the circuit, although I'm not sure what all that includes, and wire a 1/4" mono jack for the instrument input somewhere going into the output stage. My guess is + to the plus side of C4, and the - to ground, and eliminate everything left of, and including C5, which I'm guessing is to remove DC before amping.
I also believe I can completely remove the 12v potion altogether and connect the 9v to ground, and pin 6 of both IC1 and IC2 via a switch and D3.
I don't think I have to worry if it will pass lower frequencies, as the  Bass pre-amp should have that covered. As to any other concerns, or a better way of doing this, I wouldn't have a clue.
I know I am showing my ignorance (defined as just having never been told yet) here, but I am a firm believer that the only stupid question is one you ask of someone who you already know doesn't know the answer, and I am sure the vast majority of posters here do.
TIA

First and foremost, Thanks to Mark at Frog Pedals who sold me the PCB, without which I would have never attempted such a build as this for my first build . He also answered a lot of questions. I would like to also thank all the good people at Love My Switches, Parts Express, and Mouser for all the great customer support. Thanks to Scott for all the scrap wire, and Tom for printing out the decals.

And now without further ado...The Banny I.



I have named my version of this pre-amp the "Banny I". My daughter drew the young bassist graphic on my father's day card this year. I just scanned and colorized it. They called me Banny as a child, and my sister says the graphic looks like me as a young teen.

Here is the backside.



The fictitious company that produced it is Nelson Audio (note the "oh" in nelson is a bass clef). I placed the warning label on the back because this circuit produces 185vdc.

And let's not forget the gut shots.





It measures approximately 8" x 3" x 5".  I did not design the circuit myself. It is modeled after the Alembic-F2b.  I have ran it through the fx return on both my Fender Rumble 150, and my Peavy Tour 750. This is how I always wanted my bass to sound. Between the EQ, Clipping, Brite, and Hi Cut options, I can get a lot of different sounds.
 
The only flaws I can find in this amp are purely cosmetic, and were caused by myself. If I am ever so inclined, I can buy another enclosure, and try again, but those flaws don't stop it from sounding so great. I really think that the water slide labels are the way to go, I just need more practice. I could probably post a whole other topic on what I learned about using the water slide decals.
I could go into more detail, but I'm afraid I may start to bore.

Thank You for looking.