Topics

Continuing with my Sagan Delay themed pedals:

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32079.msg308259#msg308259
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32333.0

This is my Space Chorus.  It's a Pedal PCB Caesar, which is a copy of the Walrus Audio Julia.  It's super cool.  The build docs don't have a schematic.  I'm curious to see how the delay lag (Space control) is implemented.  I think it would be cool to mod some other chorus circuits with this, like the Small Clone.  Biasing the 3207 looked weird on the scope (no position on the trimmer gives anything close to a symmetric waveform on the output), but it sounds great.  That's been messing with me, maybe an artifact of the delay pot?

Enclosure is no film on polished metal with a 10 mm LED.  The transfer came out a bit rougher than the other two, but it looks fine in real life    I have a NE5532 in there, which I think sounds better.







The soft touch really did not want to go in there!  It took flipping some caps to the back and angling in the PCB.  The pins on the blend pot are barely poking through.

I built a Sagan Delay a few months back and really dig it.  I downloaded the graphics from diablochris and also really like the style of them. 

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32079.msg308259#msg308259

The Sagan looked kind of lonely in the middle of all my regular spooky pedals, so I decided to make a few more inspired by the Boss-style 80s Space thing, DC created. Here is the Bean's Kezuroukai Phaser.  I have a Space Chorus in the works, but it needs a de-bug.  No film decal on polished box, a 10mm LED, and a crammed in Softie.

Sound-wise, this thing is amazing.  I wasn't expecting to like the other modes so much, but the Pad mode and especially the Ring mode are super cool bonuses.  All the switches change the effect noticeably.  There's a lot of future tweeking to be done here.






I ordered the FKP instead of the MKS 68n box caps by mistake, so, that's what those big red ones are.  A few ended up on the bottom of the board to make them fit.   

Can both pin 4s be cut for this fix?  I put it together and realized my 2P4T is reversed.  So, pin 4B is cut and 4A is intact.  I can cut the 4A without tear down. 

Looking at the schematic it looks like the all the B pins are not going anywhere.  Is this correct?

Some recent Catalinbread builds, the Aion Triton and Ceres.  I'm really a fan of the extra SMD pad on the transistor layout.  Gives you the option to use through hole or SMD and doesn't take up much space on the layout.

The Triton, is a Dirty Little Secret MKIII clone, with two switches taking the place of an internal slider to select between the Super Bass and Super Lead sounds.  I didn't care for any of the demos I heard of the Super Bass, so, I decided to save the $4 in switches and just jumper them in the Super Lead position.  Thanks to mauman for helping me figure this out.

I really like the way the pedal sounds but it gets noisy with the pre-gain past 1/3 of it's rotation.  For others that have built this circuit, is that normal or do I have a bug?





This is the Aion Ceres.  I built this for a friend of mine who is a big Sabbath fan. 

I am working on this circuit.  I wanted to jump both the gain and the tone switches so that it is only in the Super Lead mode.  I'm not 100% which is which from the schematic.  I was hoping someone could take a look and let me know if I've got it right. I'm guessing that having both switches in the A1, B1 position will be the Super Lead. 

A second opinion would be greatly appreciated 

https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/triton_mkiii_documentation.pdf

If your phone has more pictures of pedals than of your children.......

Finished this up this weekend.  Really fun pedal.

I don't remember the movie too much.  I just remember it was trippy and it has the word head in the title, perfect 



This turns out not to be useful at all once you connect the pedal   

I'm building a Mudbunny with the BeanMuff values from the Rabbithole project.  Do I need to adjust the values in the tone bypass section too? 

Wow, this thing is awesome!  I've had the boards in my stash for awhile and I'm kicking myself for not building this sooner.  It's going on my board for sure.  I chose to make it in a 1590XX.  I'm a drinker and I figured I'd step on those toggles at some point if I built it in a BB    I also wanted to add a soft touch for the bypass, so, the extra room made that easier.

I didn't check the drill template from the Carcharias build doc against the graphics I downloaded for the old project.  I would recommend doing that to anyone that wants to build this.  My drill template was a bit off on the 1,2,3 toggles, it might have happened when I tweaked the graphic, not sure.   It took cutting the toggle lugs in half to get the board in there. 


After polishing the enclosure and a couple of tries/fails to get the no-film waterslide all lined up and baked on, I wiped aluminum chips across the face after drilling and scratched it    Actually can't see it when its on the floor, so, not so bad.




Gut shot


Bottom board and soft touch switch wiring.  I socketed the LED, ignore the green LED in the picture, it doesn't work. 

Does anybody know if the SMD version of the PT2399 is better quality or the same as the DIPs?

I've been building quite a few 2399 projects recently and it's a bummer when the 2399 has that static on the repeats. Was wondering if using a daughter board with the SMD version would be more reliable.   

I finished one of these up this weekend.  I was wondering about the sound.  Are long delay times possible out of this? Mine makes a really awesome sounding slap back and short delay sound, but long delay sounds are not there.  Is this how this circuit is meant to sound or do I have a problem?

Some of you might be too young to remember, but we used to have these things called shows, where people played music for other people 

I built this to solve my lead tone problem.  I like to have a boost at the front of my overdrive and a delay at the end, which would require a karate one/two kick, live.  It was really the only time I needed to turn on two pedals at once, so, didn't really justify getting a looper. 

This is an Imp circuit into the Cave Dweller delay with a send and return in the middle of the two.  I used two soft touch circuits and wired them both to the same switch.  Kind of elaborate for such a simple problem, but I have a lot of extra time these days 

My daughter's friend wants a Big Muff and I've agreed to make it.  He mentioned Smashing Pumpkins, which made me think creamy dreamer.  Then he mentioned the Wicker Big Muff, which I've never heard of.  I'm wondering if anybody knows which flavor of Muff circuit this is?

Normally, when I build an Aion board, RX resistors are assigned to mods or extras.  Wondering if the RX resistors in the L5 are the same?  Only X7-X9 are mentioned as extras in the build documents. 

Some more projects getting finished, hell yeah!  Thanks to Dan for hooking me up with the J175s. 

Both these pedals sound fantastic.  The Fat control on the Alpha Dog gives the Rat a lot more usability, IMO.  The Dark Horse is a must build for DS-1 fans. It's kind of bitter sweet, because I just built 4 DS-1s with TA7136Ps the last few months for friends.  I'm kind of hoping I don't end up liking this one more. 

Finally got something finished up this week! I've been neglecting my parts ordering, recently, and as a result I have a bunch of projects on my bench waiting for one or two missing parts.  This one was extra frustrating because I didn't have enough 6.8n caps, accidentally ordered 68n caps, next ordered the wrong 6.8n caps.  FKP (Polypropylene) Wima caps are about twice as thick as the regular MKS.  Managed to wedge them in there, though.

I'm still dialing in the trimmers, but I want to post a demo after I get the Tappy built up.  I might have to move the Tappy wires, not sure having them running over the output jack was the best choice.

Edit 1/3/21:  I updated the photos after the fix with a jumper between R46 and D9.  The trimmers were not the problem 

I'm building an Alpha Dog and just realized I don't have an 18V zener for the switching board. Would a 16V zener give similar results? 

I have a working unit from a few years back.  I built a new one, clock sets up nice but it won't bias (judged by scope).  Switched the 3007 from the old one into the new one, same problem.  Socketed R32, tried lower and higher values, same problem. Is R32 the right value to change? Am I missing something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A lot of the older flangers and BBD delays use a 4558 Op Amps, which I love in a overdrive circuits but I want something cleaner in these type of circuits.  I often sub in OPA2134s.  I was looking for a ranking of fidelity for different Op Amps, does anyone have this?  Basically, I'm looking for a list with OPA2134 at the top and other Op Amps that might be good enough but not cost 5 bucks per below.

I'd like to add a vibe switch to the Touchstone.   Build doc recommends lowering R23, so, I thought a jumper across would work.  Mods I've found on the web recommend pulling out the other side of the mix (R22).  Are they the same? Seems like there might be a volume change with the jumper choice.