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Anyone have a link to some cool looking LED bezels?

I'm kind of bored with mine, and would like to find some with a little more "flare" if you know what I mean.

I don't recognize this one... Is it junk?



I have a red fasel and a soul inductor... And now this one too.  Not sure which one to put in my weener.

I decided to make a board for this.  I based this on the schematic from smallbear.  Mine is a little different in that it connects to an 8pin header on the edge, hopefully making a smaller board.

I wasn't sure, but I think that VEE, and VPP are supposed to all be connected to each other.  I think these are chip generated voltages.  I'm hoping someone can spot check it, and if its good I'm going to order a few.  If they work I'll see if there is interest enough to order a larger batch.

smallbear schematic
https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/MN3005/3005_to_2x3008_SCH.pdf

Here is my schematic


here is the layout

I have an few "old" 2n3565 transistor and my weener wah needs on.  does anyone know the pinout on the odd mushroom cap looking 3565?

also what is the pinout for the Q1 on the weener way so I put in in correctly?

mmm subivisions.  It says 6 BBD chips for 900ms delay, so that would be Mn3007s?

http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/supa-puss

Well I'm starting my Aquaboy, and I though a build thread would be nice.  It seems rather complicated, so I'll share my trials with you all.  I don't know if will be done in time for the monthly build contest, so I'm putting my thread here.

here is what I have done so far.

Day 1: just the resistors.



Day 2: capacitors, diodes, and sockets.



That is all I had in my stockpile, so I've ordered the remaining parts, expect some more updates next week.

I just started my Aquaboy build and I'm wondering, what is the max delay I can get with two MN3005s?

I plan on running it at 18V, with two 3005s.  I found a site claiming they can get near two seconds out of two 3005s?
http://pittsburghmodular.com/analog-delay/

I thought the Aquapuss was more like 600ms max?  Is that just because it sounds terrible when set higher?The pittsburg modular linked says they have theirs set to 9/10s of a second when shipped, but can be calibrated to near 2s.

Just wondering.

I got a weener wah as a runner up prize in last month contest.  This is great because I need to build a wah... my last attempt was a failed mod wah build.

I want to get an opinion on caps for the weener wah.

It looks like you have the option for radial caps, but is this really just for mojo?  Not sure where to source these, but the link to the 4uf one was like $4.00 for one cap... thats a bit scary, since I need 9 different caps... I guess I could spend $40 on caps, but it really better sound better.

If not radial what should I use?  Film, polystyrene ... any suggestions?

I also have red fasel and a sabbadius soul inductor that I can salvage from a failed mod wah build.   Will the soul fit?  It is 500mh, is that a good value with the stock values on the build doc?  I'm not sure where to source a whipple?

If anyone has a reliable source where I can get a set of radial/mojo caps please let me know, I just don't want to spend $30 on shipping from a half dozen ebay sellers on $3.00 caps if I can find a more efficient way to do this.

I'm working on a CE-2 clone using the tonepad layout an I have a few questions about this layout,  I'm hoping one of you guys know this chorus well enough to help me out.

1. It's saysTL022 for the Op Amp.  The closest I have us a TL062.  The pork barrel also uses a 62 am I ok doing the same?
2. What is an RD11EB diode?  I think it is a 5.1 v Zener.   Are there any good substitutes?
3. Can I run this at 18v?  I think I would like to stick a charge pump in it and run it at 18 if it will work.
4. Is there a way to mod this for stereo out?  I did this for my small clone and I really like it.

Thanks guys... Still need a few parts and this will be ready for testing.

Anyone know of any dual delays out there other than the Multiplex?

I've build a few delays and I have to say the dual delay really does it for me.  Double delay, just makes for longer repeats, but the dual delay lets me set different delay times, which I think sounds awesome.

It  really looks like most of the DIY pedals out there, in fact most of the delay pedals, are double delays... not duals.

I've seen this person mentioned on another forum.  Does anyone know if these are legit?

He is asking $25 each, which seems reasonable for legit MN3005

If anyone has had experience with this seller please let me know.

Just an awesome sounding pedal.  Tricky to get in to a 1590B with a battery, but I managed it.  This is a pedal I made for a friend originally called the "Christmas Kingslayer".  I put it in a bear box, and the offboard wiring was just a mess.  There was just way too much wiring for that box.  I got him to give it back to me for the weekend, and I spent pretty much the whole day yesterday measuring, drilling, measuring, cutting, measuring soldering etc.  I'm much happier with the guts, it feel really solid now.

I got a nice jade green box for another one, sounds so good I have to have one too.

I found a great layout on small bear for cascading "fake MN3005" to get the delay of an MN3005 .  Don't get me wrong, smallbear is great, and I trust they work as advertized, but there is really no way of knowing what they are.

I'm wondering if I could use this same schematic and parts to cascade authentic MN3008 and get the equivalent of MN3005 delay times for an aquaboy build.

Not cheap, but I really want warm, clean, long repeats.. and with the added headroom, I would put a road rage in there to run it at 18V.

I'm just dying to do an aquaboy build, but I'm not going to do it if I cant do it "right".

I put together my ZPSDX, and I used MLCC.  I have to say I'm not thrilled with the sound.  Does film really make that much of a difference?

If so I'll desolder and reclaim as many of this caps as I can, but that is a real pain.  I figured I would ask before I waste my time.

I was picking up some double sided tape yesterday at the walmart in the craft cestion.  I stumbled in to this.  Did not buy it, but I'm pretty tempted.  Anyone else use one?  Seems like it could make creating decals or even just white lettering really easy, up to 5 inches wide, and its just 20 bucks.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Xyron-500-Sticker-Machine/10285214

Anyone know if either of these are decent O-Scopes?  Is the sampling rate sufficient?

They are pretty cheap and self contained, but I'm not sure if they would be sufficient for analog pedals.

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/dso-nano-v3-p-1358.html?cPath=174
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/dso-quad-4-channel-digital-storage-oscilloscope-p-736.html?cPath=174

I just built my low rider and I modded it removing c10 and c12 and putting. 1n in c10

I have to say the upper octave does not sound like an octave up it sounds the same note.   It is as loud as my clean though.  The first down I a bit weaker and the second down is just plain weak and flabby...

Sounds awesome but I'm wondering If I should be getting more volume from the lower octaves?  Is this normal or a result of the mod?

Anyone know what these are.  Just found me in my parts bin.

I have a question about the "asymetrical clipping"  using BAT46 in D2/D3.

assuming D2 has one BAT46 (lets say facing north)  does that mean I need two in series facing the other way(south) or should I have two in parallel facing south?

right now I have two in series and I have to say I dont relaly hear a huge difference between the red diffused and the BAT46... one side sounds just a hair grittier.. not much though.

Not interested cause I already have a lowrider and a rub-a-dub... but it does look kinda nice.

http://www.ehx.com/products/epitome