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Just acquired about 100 or so old NOS tubes of varying flavors including 12ax7 and other commons.  I really would like to get my feet wet in the world of tubes.  Well figuratively at least.  I'd love to build a OD type of pedal.  I would run strictly off mains no batteries, size is not concern.  Are there any build able projects out there for something like this?  Something relatively low component count to get an idea of how this all works.

Putting together my dirtbag and I'm not sure how critical it is to have the values listed:

R35 - 33.2 K
R36 - 24.3 K

Can I get away with a 33K and 24K or do I have to run resistors in series to get the exact values?

Also a question about the documentation for this build...R21 and C14 are shown designated 1K**, and 33n** respectively, what does the ** refer to? There is no matching footnote or remark about these.  It's like it's missing. 

Just was reading over the Kingslayer documentation and noticed the comment about using only 1044SCPA for whine considerations.  What does the "S" mean?  I just built a FSH-1 tonepad board and used a 1044cpa and it does whine.  So cool, looks like I might have a solution with the "s", but just curious what it all means.

Finally, well kinda.  This was a tweaking nightmare and still is.  So many variables that it's hard to pin down a snapshot that I am convinced is the best iteration of components.  The sound is really good, and each op-amp transistor combo yields slightly different flavors of range, sweep, and color.

Here's what it has at the moment.

Q1(noise) = 2n3565, emitter leg not connected
Q2, Q5, Q6 = 2n5088
Q3 = 2n3906
IC1 = NE5517 in place of LM13600
IC2 = NE5532
IC3 = KIA358
IC4 - MAX1044
100k, 10k trimmers = very beneficial to use muli-turn instead of single turn.

Generally there is a bit of ticking but to me sounds more like a bass drum thump in time to the LFO.  I plan on getting some TL022 and TL062 which some have had success with for the LFO IC3.  The ticking is weird though It can be dialed out with the trimmers, but then I get a cocked wah sound that sounds thin. 

Many have stated that the noise transistor is very picky and a less than perfect tranny with high noise yields better results.  For me leaving off the middle got me fairly consistent results.  This only worked for certain types of trannies.  But when it did it did.  I'm not sure of the technical reason at this point.  Maybe someone can explain it to me.

Only thing I'd do different is make the Filter/S+H switch a footswitch.  But I had a hard time fitting it all together as is with my graphic design and fitting it all together neatly in the 1590BB. 
 

I have bought all my DC jacks from mammoth.  Mostly the internal nut variety.  Problem is they always are just a little to deep and get in the way of my internal stuff.  I then tried the external nut variety and while it frees up real estate it just looks like an afterthought and not very aesthetic.  Looked at small bear and tayda and it all looks like the same goods.

Is there something else out there that might give me the best of both worlds?

I thought about the square boss variety but cutting a square hole don't sound like fun.  Maybe I'm being too picky, but there's gotta be some other options I am over-looking.

I am really confused about what chips to put in my dirtbag build.  Let me frame it.

Currently I have a Digitech Timebender and an old Arion SAD-1.  So I have long delay and nice simple analog covered.  I wanted to build the Dirtbag for the challenge and because I've never owned a DMM so I wanted to see what it's all about.  I find myself most often hovering around the 400-600 ms range on my Timebender. 

I'm really torn about the MN3005, v3205, and MN3008 options.  I'd probably have no qualms about the v3205 but reading the posts about all the issues people have had with that chip it makes me a little more than nervous.  But then getting the MN series chips seems costly and I don't feel like wasting money by getting burned by fakes. What are the delay times like for the various chips?  Is it much different?
 
I dunno it's a tough decision. What's a boy to do?

1) Project - Lowrider
2) Problem Description - Sound is more of a tone control coming from UOCT1, DOCT1, DOCT2.  No octave.  CLEAN pot functions as it is supposed to.  Turning UOCT1 down acts a volume control.  Trim pot does nothing.
3) Steps Taken -

• Verified no solder bridges
• Confirmed board has power - Pedal works on bypass and engaged.  Board has power  and is outputting sound

4) Substitutions -

• followed recommendations of build sheet for "leaving C12 off, and using a 1n instead of 10n for C10"  I put jumper wire in place of C10. Hmmm, Could this jumper be the issue  Just realized, Should I have left the spot empty?
• Did not have 160K for R55 so used (2) 82K in series
• Did not use Small Bear CD4013BCN used CD4013BE from Mammoth

C10.

When I get home tonight I plan to check voltages and compare to the readings from a working LowRider I found in another post.  Regarding this, what are the little probe points designed on the board supposed to read?

I have now built 6 of your pedals and have 3 more pcbs on the way.  At some point I'll probably at least have one of everything you offer.  I have had zero problems with the pcbs.  Only issues have been my errors and clumsiness with wiring. Which reminds me to say pcb mounted pots kick ass!!  Before I started I knew very little and I feel now that I am ready to try more adventurous things.  Your documentation is the most thorough and well done of any I have come across and it has given me the confidence I needed.  Just wanted to applaud you publicly for the fantastic work you do.  Keep up the great work! 

signed,
a satisfied customer

So I know that an increased temperature affects germanium somehow but I do not know what  that is specifically.  Is it just a high temperature in general or is it a rapid change in temperature?  Do low temps affect it as well?  And what is the affect?  more leakage, noise, volume drop, etc?  Just trying to increase my knowledge here.

A friend of mine asked me if I could build him a pedal.  He said he wanted a SunLion.  I wasn't initially familiar with it so I researched.  Really the SunLion appears to be nothing more than a Rangemaster with a Fuzzface.  So I thought "perfect,  I'll combine a Madbean RangeMaster and Mangler!" I've researched the actual physical connections of the the 2 boards and that looks pretty straight forward. 

Other than considerations for enclosure size, is there anything else I need to consider?  I am still not sure about tranny type, I know the SunLion uses unobtainable NKTs, so I probably won't use those but I would like a close substitution.  This will be the hardest part I'm sure.  Let the fun begin!

Is there anything I can do to lower the noise floor on this thing?  Or is it just the nature of this pedal with the Ge and all?  Don't get me wrong the thing sounds absolutely fantastic, it's just the noisiest pedal on my board.

Been enjoying my quadrovibe quite a bit.  However...When it's last in the chain it's fine, but when it's anywhere else, it kills my chain.  I get no sound.  Not sure what's going on.  Any help would be appreciated.

Spent more time on the graphics for this one and used RGB blinking LEDs for the eyes.  They turned out pretty cool, except when they blink there is a little synth-y noise going on in time to the blinking.   Not over powering and only audible when I'm not playing.  The octave thing is pretty cool and the fuzz ain't bad either.  Sounds best with my Paul.  Ok, here's the pics:

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Just built my first ever pedal using the madbean King of Klone board.  It worked perfectly the first time!  I was very impressed.  I am still playing with getting the sounds I want out of it, but I really like it.  I will caution those who check out the pictures..  My wiring sux and I had a hell of a time fitting it all in the case.  This was my own fault as I was using lots of different wire and I also used a pre-drilled case which kinda screwed me on battery placement.  It currently sits on top of the pots separated by a foam pad.  I also need to get some good knobs to match, I am thinking the silver skirt variety.

I learned a lot though and am already thinking about my next projects.

A couple other things.  The painting is all hand done.  I sprayed the enclosure with primer, then the dark blue, then hand painted the text and clone with acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby.  I then cleared the whole thing.  I am no artist, but the results are acceptable for me for a first time out.  Next time I think I'll use water slide decals. 

Well, here are some pics.

So I was thinking...  Stores like Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. have free samples of laminate used for counter tops.  I found a couple pieces that fit perfectly on the face of a 1590BB.  Has anyone tried this yet?  I'm curious what would work to attach the laminate to the aluminum.  Epoxy, JB-Weld, Super Glue?

So I have started to solder together my first project, the King of Klones. I am trying to understand some things about diodes.  Here's the background data for this particular build:

Here's what's spec'd out:
D1 - D4 = MA856
D5 - D6 = 1S1588
D7        = 1N5817

Here's what I planned on using:
D1 - D4 = 1N914
D5 - D6 = 1N4001
D7        = 1N4001

I believe the DIP2 switch will allow me to switch between the 2 banks of diodes. (D1-D4) and (D5-D6).  Is this correct?  If these are in fact separate banks. What does D7 do?

Given this variation with the switch should it be necessary to socket all the diodes to provide further variation?  How much will the diodes change the overall sound of this pedal?

Any help appreciated.

First off let me say hello!  I ordered my first madbean pcb, a King of Klones and got it this week.  This will be my first pedal build, but I have done some electronics stuff before.  Wiring my guitars, fixing my tube amp, etc. 

OK, so I got my new PCB and I tried to put the IC socket in that I had  laying around(got from radio shack a few moons ago), well it doesn't fit.  It appears to be too tight.  I really want to socket the IC and a couple caps and maybe a few diodes.  So what do you recommend that fits?  Searching Mouser I did not see any filters for sorting for pin diameter or similar so I'm a little clueless in this regard as too what I need to get.  Thanks.