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My first PT2399 build was MadBean's Sea Urchin circuit - build report here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3640.0.  In case you missed the joke the first time, I named it the Dory delay because Dory likes to repeat herself.  (yuk yuk yuk)  I ended up selling the pedal a while back (too many delays at the time), and ended up missing it.  Enter the Neptune...

I decided to stick with the same artwork on this one, although I affectionately refer to it as the Dory Deluxe, as it has CJ's added "repeats bend" function, which I put on a switch that will toggle the function of the left footswitch between that and my usual infinite repeats jumper.  I also used another Cusack clickless board in here, which fit nicely on top of the Neptune board.  Wiring isn't the prettiest, but it's quiet and functional.  Top mounted jacks, blue snuffer water enclosure from PPP... voila!

Like all pedal builders, I have a buddy who wanted a Klon style pedal.  He also wanted me to use the same artwork that I had created for my Tilt build, the Classy Drive.  So... this was born.

I call it the "Ron Klon".

Hat tip to GrindCustoms for the lovely PCB on this one, as well as to gtr2 for his pretty little 3PDT board, which made for a very tidy build.

Bought CultureJam's Shoot the Moon trem board on a whim, and I'm glad I did.  This thing is easily the most silent DIY trem I've ever played.  Great sweep on the shape knob.  If anyone else is building this, be warned that there is a LOT of gain on tap!  It pretty much begins at unity gain and then boosts from there on out.  Midwayfair advised using a lower value pot if this bothers you!

The artwork: I wanted something to commemorate my wife and I's 5 year anniversary trip to Hawaii this summer.  "Mahalo" = Hawaiian for "thank you" and the turtle artwork is actually the logo from the Maui Brewing Company, which I thoroughly recommend after a hard day of surfing 

I built this pedal to follow the same style and color scheme as my (much) earlier Honey Bee clone, the Tone Shark.  Looking at the two side by side, I'm pleased to see that my work is continually getting cleaner... or I'm just imagining that because I want it to be true!

Another Cusack clickless board in this one.  I tried to use one of the new Molten Voltage bypass boards from SmallBear, and it stopped relaying after 15 or 20 cycles... not too happy with that one at the moment.  Cusack wins this round of the clickless battle... and is a considerably smaller board as well.

Having been inspired by TenWatt's AWESOME creation earlier this year (seen here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=4052.0), I simply had to have some similar artwork on my board...

I built this up on an Aquaboy board that MadBean graciously passed along to me during last year's holiday PIFs.  Took a little bit of tweaking to get her working... and even more to get the repeats semi-clean... but it's turned out to be the perfect little slapback that I wanted it to be!  Repeats are still not totally clean, but it's working fine for its intended purpose.  Top mounted jacks, infinite feedback switch (I like noise), and a Cusack clickless bypass board.

Thanks MB and others who helped me in the tech help forum on this one.  Great to have it working!

Howdy friends -

Just finished building up CJ's Shoot the Moon trem.  It sounds great, but it has a TON of output... I'm getting unity volume almost immediately on the gain pot, and then tons more...

No part subs in my build... used a NSL32-SR3 optocoupler.  Opamps are TL072CN and JRC4558D. 

So... where should I look for my problem?   

Howdy friends -

Finally got around to building up an old Aquaboy board.  I'm getting clean signal through, but no delays.  Clock is making noise.  Getting clean signal on pin7 of the MN3205 as well as at the compander, but no delay anywhere.  Haven't taken voltages yet - based on everything so far, would you guys guess that a bad MN3205 might be the culprit?

FWIW, I'm currently using a v571 compander with no parts substitutions.

Here's a quick and dirty cell phone shot of the chip in question:

[gtr2]

This one has been in the work for months, and is the product of parts and ideas from many different people, whom I will try to thank one by one in the following description!

The Bear-o-Dactyl Double Fuzz is an NPN and a PNP Fuzz Face in one box with order switching.  The PNP side was built on a board by our own gtr2 (thanks Josh!) that has an onboard polarity-flipping charge pump.  The NPN side is actually my first stripboard build EVAR, and it came out great.  This was probably the most wiring I've ever had to do in a pedal, and I'm actually pretty pleased with how "tidy" it is given how much is going on in there.

The PNP transistors are some 2SB175s that I have a small stash of, and they have a good bit of gain to them.  Quite hairy, strong midrange, lots of sustain.

The NPN side has a 2N1304 in Q1 and a 2N1306 in Q2.  I'm getting less gain on this side, but a MUCH fuller bottom end with just a killer overall tone.  Just massive and fun.

When both sides are on together... endless sustain, but not without a nice share of good ol noise    In hindsight, the order switcher might have been a bit superfluous, as it really only sounds good with the PNP side first.  Nevertheless, it's cool to have it on there just for experimentation!

Only regret: should have labeled the two sides "PNP/NPN" instead of "Germanium/Silicon" as I ended up going germanium on both sides...  

A few of the mojo caps came from a PIF by LaceSensor (thanks Ian!) and the NPN transistors came from JakeFuzz (thanks Paul!).  You guys all rock.  Also, graphics inspired by/borrowed from www.theoatmeal.com.

I'm in the process of building up a Mudbunny Mayo-style, and I'd like to get some opinions regarding having a mids switch (like the stock unit) or a full-blown mids pot.  The last iteration of the Mudbunny boards had a mids pot built in, the new one does not...

Based on Diamond's diagram here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2385.15 it looks like it would be easy to toss one of these into the build.

Has anyone built a Mayo with an actual mids pot?  How'd it turn out?

Here's a little tribute to everyone's favorite master of electricity.

For the uninitiated, here's some light reading: http://theoatmeal.com/comics/tesla

Anyone who happened to see my Current Lover build thread over in the "Tech Help" forum will understand that I had some reservations about embarking on another MN3007-based flanger build while my first one sits non-functioning on a shelf.  Nevertheless, this one came together nicely.  I built it using the stock BOM (without the later suggested substitutions) and am not having any sort of trouble with noise.  I did tweak the trimmers a bit to get the effect to be a little more washy and off-the-wall.  This thing is a blast.

I have it set up with a Cusack clickless bypass all-in-one thingy.  It's pretty neat, but sort of bulky... I'm still getting a slight pop when engaged, so I may go back in and add the pulldown resistor.  The bypass unit did allow me to use a bi-color LED, which is cool.  Wiring isn't as tidy as normal... I ran out of my usual stuff and ended up using some Chandler wire from Mammoth... it doesn't hold angles very well IMO.

My wife is a huge Zelda fan.

As in, I was forced to buy a second Wii only a few months after selling our first one when my wife heard that there was a new Zelda game coming out.  So...

This is the Triforce Chorus.  It's a Pork Barrel + Road Rage housed in a translucent gold enclosure from PPP.  After my nightmarish experience with my MN3007-based Current Lover build, I was prepared for the worst with this one.  To my extreme pleasure, it fired up on the first try and sounds incredible.  I did the lush mod as well - the LED on the left is static, and the one of the right pulsates with the rate.  I <3 chorus.

Sorry for the crappy gut shot... I neglected to photograph the guts before attaching the charge pump to the lid...

I haven't posted a build in awhile... so I thought I'd throw up one I built awhile ago and never posted (so don't judge my less than tidy wiring).  Any LOST fans in the house?  I know the name is a terrible pun, but it made for a great logo.  Standard Serendipity with AD712/BAT41.  I think everyone should have one of these.

Finally got around to finishing my Pharaoh build on a Mudbunny board, as outlined in this thread:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2385.0'

Special thanks to Diamond for helping bring this one to life!  Fired up on the first try, and is pretty stinkin versatile for a Muff variant!  There's a lot of wiring in there... it was fun coming up with a good plan for hiding most of it.  Sounded good through my Super Reverb - better than most Muffs I've tried anyway (scooped mids + more scooped mids), but really shines through my Marshall flavored amps.  It seems to gain up way more in the last quarter turn of the sustain knob than the rest of it, which is fine with me.

I used 1N914s for D3/D4 and 1N34As for D5-D7.  Both sound great, with the 1N34As being the smoother, more tamable choice.  Only thing I'm having trouble getting used to is having to count to three before turning it on... 

Howdy friends -

Finishing up a v3205 Dirtbag build and having a small problem.  I'm getting signal to pin 7 of IC4, but no delay on pin 3 or 4 - just noise/AM radio/etc.  I'm also not getting noise on pins 2 or 6 - these are from the clock, right?  I've swapped IC9 out and no change.  Thoughts?

I can post voltages later, didn't have time to record on my lunch break...

While waiting for some tech help on my Current Lover build, I decided to finally wire up this thing that's been sitting on my desk for literally months.  It's a TILT utilizing full size pots and all manner of leftover parts.  I had a spare burgundy enclosure lying around that I just couldn't come up with any decent artwork for.... and then it hit me.

Ron said it best: "I look good."

[INPUT: 9.5]

Ok, I've searched through the other threads on this board but still haven't come up with a solution.  Jumpers are correct, C5 is jumpered... this is an MN3007 version currently running on a 9V supply.  Here's my IC voltages at the moment:

INPUT: 9.5

IC1
1: 4.7
2: 4.7
3: 4.3
4: 0
5: 4.6
6: 4.7
7: 4.7
8: 9.4

IC2
1: 8.8
2: 4.7
3: 5.0
4: 0
5: 0
6: 4.7
7: 6.5
8: 6.5

IC3
1: 9.4
2: 4.7
3: 4.7
4: 4.7
5: 4.7
6: 4.7
7: 4.7
8: 0
9: 4.7
10: 4.7
11: 4.7
12: 4.7
13: 0
14: 4.7
15: 4.7
16: 0

IC4
1: 4.7
2: 4.7
3: 9.0
4: 0
5: 4.7
6: 0
7: 0
8: 0
9: 0
10: 0
11: 0
12: 0
13: 9.4
14: 9.4

IC5
1: 4.7
2: 4.7
3: 4.6
4: 9.4
5: 1.0
6: 1.0
7: 5.2
8: 8.0
9: 4.2
10: Varies
11: 0
12: 4.2
13: 4.2
14: Varies

IC6
1: 0
2: 5.2
3: 2.9
4: 0
5: 9.4
6: 9.4
7: 9.0
8: 9.4

So... what's off?  Should half of IC4 be dead like that?

A friend of mine came up with the idea for the graphic on this one... he wanted this pedal to "trump" his other ones... it ended up being a pretty cool looking design with a matte finish on it.  I absolutely love this circuit, and you can usually get the wiring very clean on this thing with the extra ground pads, etc.  As far as the "genius" level circuits go on the MB page, this one is a great gateway drug.

Howdy friends -

I'm toying with the idea of building a Karate Shop with an external expression pedal for the freq knob, a la the Godlyke Triskelion.  How difficult would it be to add an expression pedal jack that was only engaged when a cable was plugged into it?  In other words, if nothing was plugged into the jack then the freq knob would be active, but the knob would be replaced by the expression pedal when connected?

Howdy friends -

I'm finishing up my second Dirtbag, and I'm not getting any delay whatsoever.  The "Level" control is functional (with clean signal), but from what I can tell with my probe, my signal is not making it to the MN3005s.  I know that my chips are good (tried them in my other Dirtbag, which works), and visually everything on the board checks out against my functional build.  The only difference I can see is that I used TL072CPs here and TL072CNs on the other.

Where should I be looking for a signal drop?  I've tried tracing via the instructions and I keep getting lost/frustrated.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

I built a Dirtbag with MN3005s and a Cusack clickless bypass system.  (Build report here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3673.0) I was running a stereo rig the other night, with the Dirtbag running on the right side of the stereo chain and my Deep Blue Delay on the left.

When the Dirtbag is engaged, the signal phase seems to be reversed, putting the amps out of phase.... which is both cool and uncool.

Can anyone explain this to me?  Is it inherent in the effect, or caused by something in the bypass system?  Anyone else experience this?

Ok, I'm trying to model this thing based on the changes that JakeFuzz made to his Waffle Wah (mentioned in this thread: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3685.0) and I'm getting the "volume swell problem" where I lose signal where there should be bass frequencies...

Changes I've made to the circuit:
Omitted FREQ pot
Omitted C6
Changed C5 from 3n5 to 10n (didn't have a 15n lying around that moment)
Using 2n2925 trannies in Q1 and Q2
Using the stock crybaby sweep pot - it's measuring at 104k