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Got my local Jaycar to fill my BOM for a Haberdasher Deadringer.  While leaving out a 2N5088, they subbed the diodes.  I know I can sub a 1N400x for any other 1N400x, so that's not an issue, but they put a couple of 1n4148 in to replace the 1N914 and 1N43a presumably - or am I wrong?

They also included a large germamium diode with no markings on it besides the polarity band.  Which diode would that be a possible sub for in particular?

I mean, diodes are diodes really, I could probably sub most of them with LEDs if I was so inclined... but I'd like to get it as close as possible to the original BOM.

So to break it down:
Which diode(s) does the 1n4148 most closely replace?
Which diode is the the big arsed germamium, if any?

Thanks,
Willy.

I want to make the multi from hell and it will, of course, have a delay.  I have an unpopulated Sea Urchin board kicking around (thanks Haberdasher), but I see the Cavedweller on the projects page.

Besides the obvious size advantage, what's the functional difference between the two given that they're both pt2399 based delays?

Thanks in advance,
Willy.

Gudday all, after a year of procrastinating about it, I finally ran the pedal workshop for my guitar students who were interested.

I chose Brian's Madbean Sprouts, etched by Haberdasher, got the components from Jaycar, and the outboard stuff from Pedalpartsaustralia.com.  I spent yesterday afternoon sorting parts for the kits and drilling enclosures.

Got a few kids and their dads interested, and we spent the day putting them together.  The first hour was spent learning how to solder....

Anyway, the day was a great success, everyone went home with a working pedal and everyone had a ball.  I'd like to say that everyone's pedal fired up without issue first go, but it just wasn't the case.  I think two fired up first pop, and the others had issues that got past the QC but were solved pretty quick (a dry solder joint there, a solder bridge there) once we realised they didn't work!  Pretty good considering the ages ranged from 6 to 14.

Thanks to Brain, Haberdasher, and To RobA for his time in my troubleshooting thread.

Willy.

Gudday all, got a small prob. Of all the projects to try, this sprout I'm building in preparation for thurdays workshop is not working...

Project:  Sprout
Problem:  Bypasses fine.  Hit the switch and the LED lights up fine, but no sound.
Substitions:  BC548 and BC549 for Q1 and Q2 respectively.

Doesn't seem to be a solder bridge problem.  The offboard seems to be ok too.  Checked many times.

I've had a bit of a probe around with the DMM, and it seems that the voltages on one of the trannies is fine (?), all around 5v or so, but one is a bit low.  I'm not 100% certain I'm doing it right - one clipped to ground, and touching the solder pads of the tranny legs with the other.

Anyone know what the sprout should measure normally?  I'll stick a pic up later.

Finally finished my pedal power supply project.  It has 8 x 9vDC outputs (2amps) for all my regular stomps and a 20vAC output (1amp) for my Blackstar pedal.

Originally it didn't work even though the rocker was lighting up, so I put it aside and came back to it today after searching the web and finding that I'd wired the rocker wrong (the lamp lights off the 3rd prong, the rest of the circuit goes off the center lug - I'd wired everything off the 3rd lug).

Anyway, it looks like crap now after having put it away for 3 months or so (paint was too soft), and the jiffy enclosure is really too light for what's inside (probably 3 pounds of copper and magnets all told) and none of the jacks are flush so I will re-house it one day if I can be bothered.  In the meantime it will get mounted on my pedalboard. 

Regardless, behold, the S.L.O.P.P.Y!

Gudday all, just finished my "Crusty Brussel", which has a Haberdasher Sprout etch on one side and a vero of Soul Sonics' Crackle Not OK SHO improvement.

First go at a multi, and it worked first go.  If you look at the gutshot you'll see I haven't bothered to run the effect inouts to ground when switched out of the circuit.  Is this like crossing the streams or doesn't it make a difference?

Might have done something wrong with the sprout.  It sounds ok but it really has that top end torn speaker sound at the end of the chords.  Having said that, the transistors are just the generic pn100http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2283 that I can get easily locally... I shpuld probably decouple the power from the effects too, but anyway.

The enclosure is an experiment.  It's actually a reclaimed case that was going to be used for a Kranosaurus before I messed up the holes.  I used Kneed It to fill the holes, then redrilled it, and instead of the usual t-shirt transfer I laser printed onto 210gsm paper and used spray adhesive to hold that to the top.  It took gallons of clearcoat to get a decent result on the top though, I daresay the paper soaked up stacks before it leveled out.  

Anyway:


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Gudday all.

I've built a Little Angel Chorus that Haberdasher made me from the image Brian posted here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=906.0

In general, it works as advertised - when I run off the internal 9v battery.

Anyway, I've got a daisy chained power rig that runs off a 9.6 volt RC battery that I use on my grab and go baord.  When I hook it up to the LA, something is not happy, usually ending in the daisy chain sparking (near the plug that's in the LA) and making it's own magic smoke.  If I push the issue, it ends up with smoke coming from the LA jacks, melted battery snap wires, and more smoke.

Now, the thing is, I've followed Madbean's standard wiring diagrams and the Krankosaurus that I made at the same time works perfectly with the daisy chain (which now has to be replaced) ...  I've rewired the LA copying the Krankosaurus' 9v jack wiring exactly, replacing the wiring and 9v jack, checking the diagram as I went, AFAICT, and got the same result.  I've cooked the daisy chain, haven't opened the LA yet, but I'm stuck for what the problem is.

Any ideas on this situation?  Something has to be wired wrong...I'd post pics of the wiring but it's a fair pile of spaghetti and wouldn't be of any help to anyone I believe.

Gudday all.

I've got it in my head to re-house a Behringer GDI-21 and make the Tweed/Brit/Calif and Clean/HighG/Hot footwitchable.  As these settings are set from a 3way switch each I want to drop the Tweed and Clean from the options and use a stomp to go between each of these.

My issue is thus:

The switches used look identical to these ones:
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/973952-switch-slide-dp3t-pc-mnt-l-2mm-eg2305a.html

and the pinout is with 7 and 3 being common.

5   1

6   2

7   3

8   4

The positions are:
1 - 1 and 3, 5 and 7
2 - 6 and 7, 2 and 3
3 - 7 and 8, 3 and 4

Presuming Position 1 is Calif, and Position 2 is Brit, how would I go about replacing this switch with a stomp?  I presume I can leave Position 3 disconnected... I suppose I need to know what those pins are actually connected to on each pole...

Gudday all, I had Haberdasher build me a Little Angel and a Krankosaurus PCB a while ago, and I've finally finished the Krankosaurus.

Again, it's a T-shirt transfer with a number of clearcoats that have been cut and polished.  I've changed the C1, and I was going to put in a switch to change the boost/dirt order but couldn't be bothered in the end.  I love the boost on this pedal (and there's so much volume too!) but the dirt is a little uninspiring...





Willy.

Gudday all.  I'm a full time guitar teacher and was thinking of running a workshop for my students where they get to learn how to solder (for starters), populate a board, box it, and hopefully go home with a working pedal.

The kids are (young) teenagers, and I'd like to find an easy project with common components (and probably a small part count) that they could get a real result from.  I'm thinking a dirt or fuzz (I can't see a clean boost getting them particularly excited) might be within the realms of one day, but something like a chorus might be too much.

If anyone could point me in the right (or any direction) that would be great.

Thanks,
Willy.

Gudday all, a quick google and forum search didn't really help, but my question is thus:

I dropped of a Krankosaurus BOM at my local Jaycar, and in the process of putting the resistors in I found that there appears to be a couple of subsitutions.

AFAICT, 47k has been subbed for 5k1, and 62r has been subbed for 82r (edit - only one 82r has been subbed from the two on the BOM).  It threw me at first, but I figured that the 5k1 and 82 aren't as common as the average ... I dunno... 330r... and close enough is good enough.

It's probably not as bad as crossing the streams or forty years of darkness, earthquakes, volcanoes, the dead rising from the grave, human sacrifice or dogs and cats living together... but would there be any issues in the average Kranky build?

Gudday all.  I'm getting psyched up for my first couple of pedal builds (I've modded a few, but never done one from scratch) and just want to check a few things.

Just having a look at the wiring diagram from the Kranksaurus (thanks for the pcb Haberdasher), and I'm trying to work out if it's possible to run the boost before the dirt section.

I see the In_B/Out_B and the In_D/OutD links, so is it just a matter of having the boost switch (the one hooked up to In_B/Out_B) first in the signal path from the input jack (J2), or am I reading this wrong?

Would it be possible to have a switch in there somewhere to change the dirt/boost signal path, and if so, how/what would I need to do that?

FWIW, here's my planned artwork because, hey, I'm proud of it (I know I haven't marked the leds out yet, still deciding where to put them):


Thanks in advance,
Willy.

This might seem a bit random (and possibly a case of RTFM, but probably wouldn't know it if I saw it), but is there a decent clean channel pedal, such as something to emulate a JC-120, to perhaps use with a ChunkChunk?

I'm moderately surprised for some reason that there isn't a Redbox style DI/Cabsim PCB available.  Any chance of that coming up?