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I can figure out what my x-y dimensions should be, but what about height?  My plan is to design and 3d print one. I want to fit it in a 1590bb.  What have you guys used?

I don't have my bulb yet(which is the one spec'd in the build docs) so I'm not sure what I have to clear.

so smallbear sells this 18v supply:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1007

According to the Harbinger documentation there are two 18v supplies to consider... Regulated(voodoo Labs) and I'll assume unRegulated like the Dunlop kind.  Would the small bear one be considered an unregulated supply?
 

Was thinking about picking up a used Behringer RV600 and rehousing it in a sturdier box and maybe even making it true bypass.  Anyone ever done something like this?  Wondering if it's worth it.  Or maybe I should just get a used verbzilla instead.  Nobody's selling one are they.

Not sure if this will interest anyone or if it's something you guys will even like...  But this stuff is meant for sharing.

We had 48 hours to write, shoot, score, and edit a film.  We were given the genre(sci-fi), a prop(drinking glass), a character name (Sylvia Woods), and a line of dialog("Out on a limb").  We had to incorporate these elements and have the film be under 13 minutes. 

We didn't win anything, but it was great fun and I learned a lot.

Thanks for watching!

So how would I get an RGB LED to change color with an LFO?  For instance with a quadrovibe I built, the rate led pulses in time.  So that principle but each pulse would be a different color.   And would this add any noise to the circuit?

So... How different are the the 2?  I realize a lot depends on the BBDs.  I have built a a dirtbag already with the v3205 chips and I like it ok, but it's not my favorite.  So I was thinking of building the aquaboy with either the BL3208 or maybe even mn3008 (perhaps 4?).  Is the modulation the main difference? 

Question is, is will there be a huge difference sonically to my v3205 dirtbag?

Got a couple MBs ready to build (double flush, Nautilus, afterlife) that require vactrols and it got me to thinking what qualities does one look for in selecting a vactrol/optoisolator for a given project?  I see mouser carries optek varieties for a lot cheaper than those that smallbear sells.  Will any of these work?  i.e.:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Optek/OPI110/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMteimceiIVCB%252bICDjkdLUgeHSQTv5yQ18w%3d

For those of you not aware, for a number of years now there is this thing called the RPM Challenge.  Deal is you make an album of 10 songs or 35 minutes in length during the month of February.  No prizes other than satisfaction with yourself.

Here's the site:
http://rpmchallenge.com/

Decided to put myself to task and start some recording.

It is challenging, but It is a good kick in the pants.  The month is still early - give it a try.

So if you are unaware of what it is, my summary is that it's an 8x8 LED grid USB controller.  It does nothing by itself but can control midi among the other things it does.  One particular cool thing is to use it as a VU meter.  In the video I was testing the MAX/MSP app Polygome.  It generates a combination of midi notes that  I then routed the output of via virtual midi to a program called Renoise(a tracker).  From within Renoise the triggered midi notes then play sounds from a commodore64 like VST.  Whew.  Here's the vid.   

Not sure why it's cropped funny.  first time using my ipod to shoot a video.

Hardware:
Arduino Duemilanove
sparkfun pcbs and buttons
unsped shield - fabbed by OSHPark
3mm Green LEDs
3d printed and designed the case myself

This thing was a bitch.  I had numerous LEDs get fried or either just not work.  Wiring diagram on the arduinome site has a couple errors.  There is a crap-ton of software that needs to be flashed, installed, tweaked and modified.  But in the end it was worth it.  Been wanting to build one of these ever since I saw them.

So I ordered some pcbs from oshpark.  Came out pretty good.  They are pcbs with an area to be broke off for use as a mini board.  Never done this before, what is the best way to break them off? They are perforated but it makes me nervous.  I've had a spotty record doing this sort of thing with vero.  Here's a pic if it attaches...

For a couple years I have tossed around the idea of building a monome or the arduino based open source arduinome.  Curious if anyone here has attempted it?  If anyone has I'd love to hear your experiences and how much it ended up costing.

For those of you who might not know what it is there are links below.  Basically a visual sort of midi-like interface.  I know it's probably more of an electronic music sort of thing,  but I think about music visually and I could see one of these helping me constructing rhythms and what not and getting away from too much mouse-clicking. 

http://monome.org/devices

http://flipmu.com/work/arduinome/

Had a moment so I figured I'd take some pics of my most recent builds. 
1) KingSlayer
2) Mudbunny Mayo
3) Mudbunny Civil War
4) Sabrotone Vero Triple Wreck - vero'd with boost but not utilized

All of them sound great.  I am most pleased with the sound of the KingSlayer and Civil War in tandem.  They are a perfect team.  Not sure what to say about them.  Pretty standard components I think as spec'd.  I did dink around with the trannys in the Civil War and ended up with 4 MPSA18s.  And both mudbunnys use 470uF  electros for filtering.  Cut down on noise for me significantly.  I don't use anything less on future muff builds.  So without any more text here are the newest members to the stable in all their goried wiring glory.

KingSlayer



Mudbunny Mayo



Mudbunny Civil War



Triple Wreck

Among all the other things I want to build, I'd really like to do a Slow Gear.  Was doing some searching and am not finding anything real reliable.  GGG discontinued their board.  BYOC has a kit but not a standalone board.  I'd like to do a vero but I'd be open to buying a pcb.  Anyone built one and thoughts on it?  Or anyone ever try the Behringer clone?

So I have never used a compressor but after hearing a few things I'm thinking I'd like to tinker with one.  I'd like to build one if possible.  there's the obvious afterlife or cupcake, but I'm not sure what would be better.  Also open to any vero builds or other pcbs.  I guess I'd like one mainly for the funky chord stuff and especially for evening out arpeggios.  Would either one be better suited to these?  I don't play in a band just mainly home recording.

My latest mudbunny build was very noisy so I subbed a 470uF electro for the 100uF that was spec'd.  That alleviated much of the noise problem nicely.  My question is, will there be any affect on the guitar signal's sound by this increase?  I assume no as the power section should not be in the signal path.  But if that is the case what is the "give and take"? What do I lose or affect by this increased amount of capacitance? 

Looking for info on Earthquaker Devices' Hoof.  I'd like build a mudbunny board to the Hoofs specs but I can't seem to find any reliable info.  Anyone got any?

So I've seen some pretty excellent etched faceplates around here and I'd like to get my feet wet or maybe even farm it out to someone willing.  I have a low tolerance toward certain chemicals so me etching may be an issue depending on what's involved.

My question is - is this the same process as etching boxes, and where do you get the plates to etch?

Just finished my first vero build this weekend, which was a triple wreck clone.  Got it working after a few snags and I am very happy with the sound of the build.  Haven't boxed it yet.  Problem is there is a ton of noise!  I understand this is a high gain pedal and some noise comes with the territory, but the noise I'm getting will render it non functional if I can't tame it. 

So my question is : what are some best practices for dealing with these noise issues? Here are a couple things I've thought of and maybe somebody can comment on effectiveness.

1) increase the input cap from 100 uF to something larger, 220uF or 470uF? These values specific to the TW clone.
2) Use shielded wire - I am a bit confused how this works without creating a ground loop.
3) Will wire gauge matter?
4) Are any caps better than others for noise - ie the audio grade ones I've seen?

Just trying to get some ideas of things to try.

I built a wolfshirt like a year ago and never really connected with it.  Tried it recently on a different amp and I'm really starting to like it.  The only thing I don't like so much is how leads sound choked and a little ring moddy.  And this is without the octave engaged. Is there anything to do to help minimize this?

So other than than negative or positive ground differences, How different do the NPN vs PNP Ge trannys sound?  I know it's mostly preference, but is their general perceived quality that they each posess? Getting ready to buy and looking for a general idea.